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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm working on a Mk14 Mod 1 clone. I already have the coyote Kydex short handguards, however need the longer side rails and the taller lower rail since Sage discontinued them a while back and don't seem to have them in stock anymore (I called them a few weeks back and they do not have anymore in stock, however still have a few short coyote Kydex hand guards).

I am going to have a local machine shop machine the side and bottom rails for me, however need the dimensions for each. Is there a difference in the hole placements of the current ALCS model rails in comparison to the mod 1 rails other than the obvious +~1.5 inches on the side rails, or is it just the length for the side rails and the height for the lower rail? Any info, pictures/blueprints that could assist me on this project would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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I thought it was a 2" difference on the side rails. ALCS/CV has 4" and the Mod 1 has 6". I think the bottom rail is 1/8" taller, but don't quote me on that, might be more/less. I can get more exact details after work.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It probably is 2" longer, I was just guessing. I would be very grateful if you could take the time to get me some measurements. The portion of these rails I think I'm going to have the most difficulty replicating is the extra 1.5-2" of the side rails where you have the cutout for the op rod guide bolt and that final hole. If I could get some more details on what that looks like and what size bolt and threading is in that final hole, I would be very appreciative. Thanks for the help! Very nice rifle btw, that USO looks bad ass on the Sage, almost like it was made for it.
 

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It probably is 2" longer, I was just guessing. I would be very grateful if you could take the time to get me some measurements. The portion of these rails I think I'm going to have the most difficulty replicating is the extra 1.5-2" of the side rails where you have the cutout for the op rod guide bolt and that final hole. If I could get some more details on what that looks like and what size bolt and threading is in that final hole, I would be very appreciative. Thanks for the help! Very nice rifle btw, that USO looks bad ass on the Sage, almost like it was made for it.
When I get home I'll see what I can do to get measurements for those areas. The rear rail section threads should be the same as the forward two screws, nothing different there.

Thanks. I did in fact have my USO made for my Sage setup, including the Cerakote color. GI2
 

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Okay, I have the rifle in my lap.

Side rail length 6.0935"
Side rail overall height 0.38"
Side rail base height 0.156"
Side rail U cutout 0.5"
Side rail U cut out from edge of rail to inside 0.485"
Side rail U cut out is 1.365" from the rear edge to center of the U cut

Bottom rail overall height 0.52"
Bottom rail base height 0.306"

Side rail rear screw is a socket head cap. I'll try to get one out in a little bit.



Let me know if you need more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome! Thanks so much for the precise measurements and the pic. As soon as you can get the measurements on the rear side rail screw, I think I'll be set. Looking at my Sage and judging by the location, it looks to be the same screw used for the hand guards. If it is, I'll just need the diameter of the hole and distance from the rear edge of the side rail. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks, this project is moving along a lot better than I thought it would, I appreciate your help!

EDIT: Looking at my rails last night, I realized there might be some additional measurements I might need:

1. Are there additional lightning cuts/gaps made on the underside of the 6" rails from the extra 2" of rail?
2. Does the bottom rail have the same drill holes as the common ALCS/CV models (for the large Black Kydex grip and small picatinny rail section)? If not, are there more lightning cuts/gaps made?

I realize this may be asking you to do a lot more work, but for the sake of completeness and for others to reference it would be much appreciated.

Thanks again.
 

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I'll try to look and see if I can spot lightening recesses. Unfortunately I'm not too excited about taking it apart since the action is settled into the chassis and zeroed. Last time took about 50 rounds to finally get it settled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Of course, I understand, you've already done so much and I appreciate it. I don't want you to have to spend another $50+ on ammo and an entire day to re-zero. Judging by the location of the recess marks on my rails, I think I can make a pretty good assumption of where they would be located on the 6" rails as well as the lower rail. I think all I really need are just the dimensions and location of that final hole to the rear of the side rails and I'll be set. Thanks!
 
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