M14 Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last fall I picked up an M1A Super Match at a Bankruptcy Sale that my 15yo son is now shooting. He is a member of the Texas Jr. Highpower Team of which I'm a volunteer coach helping out when I can.

The rile has been dead on up until last week when the rear sight has started to run. I looked online to find instructions on how to disassemble, clean, tighten and reassemble. Haven't found anything yet. I've got M1 Garand experience but once I started removing this sight, I found a spring and detent ball under the windage knob so I stopped.

Does anyone have detailed instructions on how to do this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,014 Posts
...
when the rear sight has started to run.
...
--------------------------
What's the trouble?
If the elev is not holding in position, then just tighten the 'nut' in the windage knob 1 click clockwise - pushing inward on the screwhead in the elev knob will make it easier to turn the nut with a suitable flat blade screwdriver.
The windage knob should require 'firm', but not 'hard' finger pressure to make it rotate. Also, pushing inward on the elev screw will make it easier to rotate the windage knob.

Also make sure the screw in the elev knob is tightened firmly - otherwise the elev knob will 'ratchet' without moving the aperture ramp up/down.

Another possible problem is that the nub on the elev drum that rides on the serrations might be worn smooth - the elev clicks should be crisp - not 'mushy'.

The ball & spring is SAI way of providing the 1/2 moa windage changes. The rest of the sight is similar to USGI on M1. I doubt that the rear sight needs to be disassembled unless the trouble is the nub on the elev drum. If you DO disassemble be ready to catch & hold the ball & spring, and note how they are installed for reassembly.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
762 Posts
Other than the detent for the windage it is identical to the M1 sight.
If it is moving on its own then the screw on the elevation side is loose.
Use a pair of channel locks with leather wrapped around the knob to avoid marring it. Using the channelocks to hold the knob, use a correct fitting screwdriver to tighten the dog snot out of the screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
426 Posts
You are new to the Forum so you may not yet know Tony Ben on this Forum and YouTube. He is a good source on how to do things on your M14 Clone. Look up this find man.

Also, I think there are some small parts in the Windage knob. Usually they stay put but I've been told they can fall out. Be sure those parts are there.

Here is a link to get you started: The Rear Sight info starts at the 16:00 mark, how the entire video is great.

Guys, We need to support Toney with some $$ donations. What he does for us is valuable.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,842 Posts
The above threads give you good advice. I second looking up Tony as his work is great.
Also, not that you would, but , do not let anyone tell you to just replace the windage knob with a GI - NM national match 1/2 MOA knob. If you were to try that you could damage threads.... the base you have has courser threads than an NM base. If you wanted to change the windage knob out for NM, the base would have to be changed to an NM base as well.
What you have will work well - just be-careful when you take it apart not to loose the spring and ball.
A simple tightening will fix the problem you described.

And, don't over look the search feature on this site, lots of good info can be recalled for your reading pleasure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
My plan is to scope it and turn it into a precision long range rig. I don't expect bolt rifle accuracy, but silhouette at 600 yard accurate would be nice.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top