[ATCDoktor]

The flashider is "Splined" to fit the barrel and is held in place by a castle nut that has an allen head set screw used to kep the castle nut from backing out while firing.

First, back the allen set screw out.

Second, using a set of M1A/M14 castle nut pliers loosen the castle nut until it can't be loosened any more.

Third, take a leather/plastic mallet and tap the flash hider off the threads.

You may need to keep loosening the castle nut as you tap the flash hider off the threads until the flash hider comes off the threaded portion of the barrel.

You don't say what model AAC suppressor have.

Regardless of model, I'm sure you already know that you will need to use an adapter to move from the .595 X 32 thread pitch on your barrel to the 5/8 X 24 thread pitch on your suppressor/suppressor mount to get your suppressor to work on the M1A.


Castle Nut Pliers

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8723/Product/M14_M1A_CASTLE_NUT_PLIERS

Delta P 5/8 X 24 adapter

http://www.deltapdesign.com/accessories-store/m14-muzzle-adapter

You will also need to move your front sight (if your going to use it) from the front sight base on the flash hider to the front sight base on your adapter.

A word of caution reference the use of these thread adapter's, you need to make sure that your muzzle is square before you attach the adapter.

If your muzzle isn't square you run the very real risk of getting baffle/endcap strikes on you can.

When I mounted mine (unbeknownst to me) my muzzle wasn't square.

The POI shift on my rifle (with the can attached) was about 2 feet low at 100yards.

The muzzle wasn't square and I was getting end cap "rubs" when the bullets were leaving the can. I was lucky I didn't destroy my can.

I had a local gunsmith square teh muzle and now everything works fine.

Good luck with your project and post some your suppressed M1A when you get it all squared away.

 

[Surveillancemike]

The flashider is "Splined" to fit the barrel and is held in place by a castle nut that has an allen head set screw used to kep the castle nut from backing out while firing.

First, back the allen set screw out.

Second, using a set of M1A/M14 castle nut pliers loosen the castle nut until it can't be loosened any more.

Third, take a leather/plastic mallet and tap the flash hider off the threads.

You may need to keep loosening the castle nut as you tap the flash hider off the threads until the flash hider comes off the threaded portion of the barrel.

You don't say what model AAC suppressor have.

Regardless of model, I'm sure you already know that you will need to use an adapter to move from the .595 X 32 thread pitch on your barrel to the 5/8 X 24 thread pitch on your suppressor/suppressor mount to get your suppressor to work on the M1A.


Castle Nut Pliers

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8723/Product/M14_M1A_CASTLE_NUT_PLIERS

Delta P 5/8 X 24 adapter

http://www.deltapdesign.com/accessories-store/m14-muzzle-adapter

You will also need to move your front sight (if your going to use it) from the front sight base on the flash hider to the front sight base on your adapter.

A word of caution reference the use of these thread adapter's, you need to make sure that your muzzle is square before you attach the adapter.

If your muzzle isn't square you run the very real risk of getting baffle/endcap strikes on you can.

When I mounted mine (unbeknownst to me) my muzzle wasn't square.

The POI shift on my rifle (with the can attached) was about 2 feet low at 100yards.

The muzzle wasn't square and I was getting end cap "rubs" when the bullets were leaving the can. I was lucky I didn't destroy my can.

I had a local gunsmith square teh muzle and now everything works fine.

Good luck with your project and post some your suppressed M1A when you get it all squared away.

BE CAREFUL!!! I bought the AAC 762SD for my M1A, got the 51 tooth flash hider/adapter and shot less then 10 shots had an End cap AND Baffle strike GI3. This was on an National match barrel, I know Phillip at Innovative Arms in SC, and he took a look at my barrel/flash hider. The barrel threads where ever so slightly off center, which caused the bullet to strike. Phillip even milled the like .01 or so off the inside of the flash hider before the threads to see if it would sit flush and that didnt work RNGR4

Called AAC, they said that the thread pitch on the M1A/M14 wasnt designed for a suppressor, and they recommended I get 5/8x24 or a 9mm thread pitch if i dont have enough meat at the end of the barrel for the threads. AAC replaced it no questions asked, but i figure if I continue to be a igit, then they may not warranty my can. So now my 762SD is my 7.62x39mm AR15 can, on a new barrel that my shop makes, and I know the threads are dead nut center.

 

[salvadlj]

Thanks ATCDoktor and Surveillancemike for your information.

Sorry about getting back with you but I had a virus attack my computer that resulted in having to wipe it clean and reload everything.

I have not started working on the M1A yet but will use your information...

Thanks again

Lincoln in Florida