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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Hoping I can get some help diagnosing my rifle. I'm a newbie M1A owner. My M1A was assembled by Croc's Gun Shop using all Winchester parts, except for a forged Smith Enterprise receiver and a Crazy Horse barrel. They test fired it 35 rounds before sending it to me. I picked up the rifle, went to the range with it, shot 1 magazine and then I let it sit in a safe for 2 years... I took it to the range today, popped a CheckMate brand mag in it and started shooting. The first round didn't chamber correctly, but it looked like it did, I pulled the trigger, and nothing... It was like I dry fired it... I removed the magazine, pulled the Op Rod back, and there was no primer strike on the round, let go of the Op Rod, re-inserted the magazine and pulled the trigger, and the gun shot, the action cycled, but the gun did the same thing with the next round... I took the same actions as I did before, and shot the second round. I thought it might be the ammo, so I switched to some reloads, and it did the same thing. After round #4, it loaded round #5, did the same thing, but now my Op Rod was stuck in the forward position. I was able to break it loose and unload the rifle. I ended up putting it back in the case and shot my handgun instead.

The first ammo I used was the ZQI ammo (I know, cheap stuff, but it's what I had on hand... Shoot it out of my FAL and Remington 700 alright though). The second ammo was some reloads of mine, ZQI brass, Winchester primer, Hornady 150gr bullet, loaded with 42gr of IMR 8302 xbr powder. Brass was sized with a RCBS 308 Full Length die set.

Any ideas as to why my rifle was acting this way? Any help is appreciated.
 

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If it hasn't been shot in 2 years, I'd strip it down clean and lube it and see what happens. Take it from there.


Hello,
Hoping I can get some help diagnosing my rifle. I'm a newbie M1A owner. My M1A was assembled by Croc's Gun Shop using all Winchester parts, except for a forged Smith Enterprise receiver and a Crazy Horse barrel. They test fired it 35 rounds before sending it to me. I picked up the rifle, went to the range with it, shot 1 magazine and then I let it sit in a safe for 2 years... I took it to the range today, popped a CheckMate brand mag in it and started shooting. The first round didn't chamber correctly, but it looked like it did, I pulled the trigger, and nothing... It was like I dry fired it... I removed the magazine, pulled the Op Rod back, and there was no primer strike on the round, let go of the Op Rod, re-inserted the magazine and pulled the trigger, and the gun shot, the action cycled, but the gun did the same thing with the next round... I took the same actions as I did before, and shot the second round. I thought it might be the ammo, so I switched to some reloads, and it did the same thing. After round #4, it loaded round #5, did the same thing, but now my Op Rod was stuck in the forward position. I was able to break it loose and unload the rifle. I ended up putting it back in the case and shot my handgun instead.

The first ammo I used was the ZQI ammo (I know, cheap stuff, but it's what I had on hand... Shoot it out of my FAL and Remington 700 alright though). The second ammo was some reloads of mine, ZQI brass, Winchester primer, Hornady 150gr bullet, loaded with 42gr of IMR 8302 xbr powder. Brass was sized with a RCBS 308 Full Length die set.

Any ideas as to why my rifle was acting this way? Any help is appreciated.
 

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I have found ZQ turkish ammo a bit long in the neck for match chambers, at least in my rifles. I noticed a lot of the necks appeared to be crimped as they chambered. They work fine in my NATO chambered rifles. When measured the brass is as much as 20 thou over max .308 chambers.
 

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Like others have said, take your M1A apart get rid of the of the 2 yr. old grease and relube the contact points. Not a bad idea to to check the roller bearing on the bolt assy for free movement and relube it also. Also check for any constricting and contact points of the OP rod. Another tip would be to check the gas making sure it's not sticking and is clean. Check out Tonyben3 youtube video's. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSX2koEAYvQ[/ame]
 
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Thanks! I'll break it down, clean and lube. I'll report back with updates or questions.
Helpful tip: Brake cleaner in aerosol can works great for removing old grease and oil and leaves no residue and dries off fast. I use Walmart's generic brand.
 

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First, welcome to the forum from SD. AFTER you have cleaned and relubed as per Tony's video, do a 'tilt test" to verify that all is well. You didn't say if it was in a wooden stock or something else, if wood, could have picked up enough moisture to warp the stock enough that it won't pass the tilt test. It is doubtful that the CMI mag is at fault but try a different mag to clear this issue off your plate. The M1A is a tough old bird but she doesn't behave without some TLC. Once you get her running tight, you'll really enjoy how soft she shoots and how much fun it is on the range. Keep her clean and GREASED, and she will treat you right. Enjoy you toy.
 

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hopefully a good lube job will fix it for you. If not it could be some metal in the wrong place, mine had barely a millimeter on the bolt causing it to hang up on the safety bridge. After a bunch of rounds it worked itself out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, I broke her down, cleaned her up and re-lubed her. Cycling the action does feel smoother now. I'll get it back out at the range soon!

I'm using a USGI fiberglass stock.

Not familiar with the Tilt test, I'll have to look it up!

Thanks for the welcome!


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Thanks! I'll break it down, clean and lube. I'll report back with updates or questions.

NF1E, is the ZQI brass decent to reload with? How about the RCBS 308 full length sizer die, or should I be using something else?


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It is great for reloading, but expect to trim more initially than any of the other brass around. The flash hole in the brass is on the small side so if you use a deburring bit, expect to take a little extra time on each piece. After that, it seems to hold up very well. I have a test batch that is on it's 6 reloading and no signs of trouble.
308 full length will work fine. Personally I have been using the RCBS sb X die for a couple of years now.

Semper Fi
Art
 

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NF1E, is the ZQI brass decent to reload with? How about the RCBS 308 full length sizer die, or should I be using something else?
That ? about the die suggest you at least know a little about BASIC reloading but not fine tuning how to set your die to resize the shoulder of the brass for correct headspace. Many basic reloaders screw die down per instruction and get by with a bolt gun but a semi can be finicky about how well you resize the shoulder. You should know measurement of headspace of your chamber from a decent smith. You should measure your brass or at least use a 308 cartridge gage. You can reload to fit your chamber without extra tools BUT you need a lot more experience than the basics.

If you want the best for a bolt gun, you should resize correctly for headspace (~0.001"). The rough die instructions usually can over size for a bolt gun.
 

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You are correct, I just screw the dies in according to directions. I do measure the length of the brass, but never headspace or anything. I'd like to know more about the subject.


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I'll put something together this week that should answer all your headspacing questions.

Tony.
 
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