The firing pin on the M14 & M1A does not have a spring around it. I would try a different magazine. Also, you can remove the trigger group and see if the firing pin moves back and forth easily by reaching your finger up to the firing pin tail on the closed bolt and EMPTY chamber. Have all your failures to feed been just when the cartridge is on the left side? There has been a couple threads in the past couple of weeks with this issue. I have to do a little back tracking or simple search to find the link. What kind of magazine have you been using?
M1A first round misfire
i have a preban M1A standard that was customized to a supermatch style.
its a tack driver but on the when the trigger is pulled the hammer falls, but nothing (usually on the first round) it did this with several brands of ammo. when you eject that round, the next one fires and you can finish off the magazine.
.
i was wondering if the firing pin had a spring around it? I could take the bolt apart but i was told not to remove the stock from the action unless you had to because of the bedding job?
does anybody have any suggestions or tips?
thanks
Brian
its a tack driver but on the when the trigger is pulled the hammer falls, but nothing (usually on the first round) it did this with several brands of ammo. when you eject that round, the next one fires and you can finish off the magazine.
.
i was wondering if the firing pin had a spring around it? I could take the bolt apart but i was told not to remove the stock from the action unless you had to because of the bedding job?
does anybody have any suggestions or tips?
thanks
Brian
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
it happened with a cheap mag and a US GI mag. i don't know if it was the left round or not. i will have to check.
the same GI mag cycles and works fine on my SOCOM
i don't know what it could be
thanks for the info. i will try and find the threads
brian
the same GI mag cycles and works fine on my SOCOM
i don't know what it could be
thanks for the info. i will try and find the threads
brian
Does anything eject when you work the action?
If yes- Is there any mark on that first cartidge you eject?
If yes- Is there any mark on that first cartidge you eject?
there is a light mark on the primer when the round is ejected
thanks for the info
thanks for the info
I hope you find out soon and it is something real simple. The small dent is normal even if you don't drop the hammer. The firing pin is inertia only. If you are not getting full lock up on the first round or any round, this could be a catastrophic problem for you and anyone next to you. If you take it to the range before having it looked at or find the problem, visually check that the bolt is indeed fully locked.
Are the mags fully loaded? What type of ammo? Has the rifle worked flawlessly in the past? If so, what's been done to it since then?
The firing pin is free-floating. No spring. When you chamber the round, it will dimple the primer. You probably know this, but when you chamber a round, you need to let the oprod fly (don't ease the bolt forward).
You might want to see if the safety bridge is working properly and that it allows the firing pin to move forward only after the bolt is fully shut. I have a feeling it is not the problem as you are seeing a dimpled firing pin.
The bolt can be disassembled in the rifle. Chamber an M1 Garand M10 combo tool, get the tab under the extractor, then rotate the tool. Or, chamber a spend 30-06 round, push the oprod forward and tap the extractor up and out from the bottom using a punch.
Sometimes, failure to fire indicates long headspace. Could also be a short, dirty or broken firing pin. Might be that the bolt is not fully rotating on the 1st round.
Ty
The firing pin is free-floating. No spring. When you chamber the round, it will dimple the primer. You probably know this, but when you chamber a round, you need to let the oprod fly (don't ease the bolt forward).
You might want to see if the safety bridge is working properly and that it allows the firing pin to move forward only after the bolt is fully shut. I have a feeling it is not the problem as you are seeing a dimpled firing pin.
The bolt can be disassembled in the rifle. Chamber an M1 Garand M10 combo tool, get the tab under the extractor, then rotate the tool. Or, chamber a spend 30-06 round, push the oprod forward and tap the extractor up and out from the bottom using a punch.
Sometimes, failure to fire indicates long headspace. Could also be a short, dirty or broken firing pin. Might be that the bolt is not fully rotating on the 1st round.
Ty
if there is exssive headspace, can i do anything?
i traded for the gun and its used but i figure thats that worste case senario
brian
i traded for the gun and its used but i figure thats that worste case senario
brian
Sounds like the bolts not closing on the first round to me. When you chamber the first round tap the carrier with your hand to be sure it closes and locks. I hope thats it.
If you have excessive headspace, you'll know by looking at the brass for signs of case seperation.htony1 said:if there is exssive headspace, can i do anything?
i traded for the gun and its used but i figure thats that worste case senario
brian
You only need to check 1.
You should have it checked before shooting it at all.
the brass from the gun looks normal after being shot. i am hoping that its only the ammo or something else. Im going to change mags and see if the bolt is seating properly
brian
brian
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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