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Discussion Starter #1
I took a vehicle tactics class this weekend, I will confess I used my AR15 for the class, but when it came time to test ballistics, I pulled out the M1A to see what it would do through the door.

The .308 was pretty significant, I also shot some green tip 5.56, it too when straight through, but had a much smaller impact on the other side. There is a lot of "stuff" in a door so it was hit and miss kind of test, but it was fun.

http://www.youtube.com/user/pwenzlik#p/u/12/dUo38Y-Vw94

the M1A is in the first 15 seconds...

Enjoy

Jim
 

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Personally I never had any Doubt as to its Lethality especially compared to an AR
Thanks for Sharing
 

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Some car doors are thin enough on the outside that you can take your pocket and put a hole in it. The inner assembly and crash bars are a different story altogether.

Some hoods and trunk lids are made of aluminum also.
 

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I agree that doors can be thin, but you would be surprised how even 10 feet away, 9mm, 40S&W and 45 would often get caught up in the door. .223 did OK sometimes, .308 when through even though we hit the window track, the green tip did the same, as did a 10mm

so depending on who is shooting what at you a door is better than nothing......especially against hand guns, not so much a .308 or green tip....
 

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The 7.62 will zip through 3/8" mild steel at 100yds... a car door at close range doesn't offer any protection.
 

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I always think it is laughable when watching a movie and a car gets pelted with all kinds of bullets and the occupants emerge unscathed.

With all the bullets, shrapnel, glass, chunks of metal etc flying around in car being fired upon, you can bet that's the last place you want to be! Even if it's just 2 or 3 shots, I want to be as far away from the interior of that car as possible!
 

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All I could think about while watching this video was how much fun it would be to shoot up a mini van. A junked out mini van of course.
 

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I always think it is laughable when watching a movie and a car gets pelted with all kinds of bullets and the occupants emerge unscathed.

With all the bullets, shrapnel, glass, chunks of metal etc flying around in car being fired upon, you can bet that's the last place you want to be! Even if it's just 2 or 3 shots, I want to be as far away from the interior of that car as possible!
My thoughts exactly. Got to shoot up a Pontiac sunfire at work last year. Using an FAL the round passed through the trunk, rear seat, front seat, dash and into the engine compartment.. Pretty funny when they "duck" down as the pursuers are firing at them from behind!GI6
 

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construction

Some car doors are thin enough on the outside that you can take your pocket and put a hole in it. The inner assembly and crash bars are a different story altogether.

Some hoods and trunk lids are made of aluminum also.
Thats right, I think all LEO should be mandatory signed up for tour of auto plants to see the guts of the situation so to speak, and anyone else that wishes to survive a confrontation of this nature.
We use to bring police cars down to S.M.P.S.A. at night from Gulfport P.D. and run the lights and strobes, put a bad guy car broadside and run a course of fire, or three to four different ones. Motorcycles, minivans, ..you name it, we blew it up.
I use to make some 155gr. semi wadcutters for my .45 Colt with a truncated cone, pushing them at 1130 FPS.....They would cut through both doors of a car and take out the target on the other side. It's all about shot placement in a high stress situation...My favorite is the boot-plate under the car...a metal plate in a combat boot,...you engage the boot which pulls a pin, which rotates a swinging mover, simulating the falling bad guy, then you must engage wounded suspect as he falls through your vision. Very realistic stages of fire.... always down there.....built by the best, for the best....take no shortcuts with your life, it's too short already.
 

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The issue FMJ ammo will go through both car doors and leave holes that look really pretty. This is with the windows rolled up. Have not shot a car with the windows rolled down.

One of the old M14 military manuals I have on a shelf somewhere says the M14 will put a round through one side of a vehicle and take out the occupants at ranges out to 600 meters. I have not tried that.GI8
 

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Discussion Starter #12
quick question for some of you more experienced M1A guys, are there any videos or guides that talk about one handed manipulation of an M1A? we do/did a lot of drills where we "have an injured arm or hand" so we are forced to manipulate the guns (both long guns and hand guns, hand guns are pretty straightforward, but long guns not so much). Having now worked with the AR with both strong side only and support side only, I realize I probably could not manage my M1A with only one hand....there are some tricks you can use for the AR that help, any one know of any for the M1A?
 

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m14s are awflly front heavy, so i would assume some kind of brace or resting on nearby object might be nessicary.

not sure i could hit anything off hand with only one arm
 

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quick question for some of you more experienced M1A guys, are there any videos or guides that talk about one handed manipulation of an M1A? we do/did a lot of drills where we "have an injured arm or hand" so we are forced to manipulate the guns (both long guns and hand guns, hand guns are pretty straightforward, but long guns not so much). Having now worked with the AR with both strong side only and support side only, I realize I probably could not manage my M1A with only one hand....there are some tricks you can use for the AR that help, any one know of any for the M1A?
I used to do offhand holding drills with my firing hand only when I shot the 14 competitively... No trick to it other than a "big" grip...
 

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Good question

I have used autos and parts for target pratice for alooong time.I like truck tailgates the best about the right size and built pretty tough to handle the job , but no match for FMJ 7.62
when using a auto for cover always get behind the motor and use a wheel for ground cover the block is the only protection any non armored units give nowadays. now one can beef up some older units to give more protection older trucks or full sized vans are the best to use with hardend steel plates and balistic ceramic/ plastic most only do the driver & pass door and behind front seats . these units are better built have heavy suspension and v8 power .alot of what you see in the movies are that weak suck 9mm ball ammo out of short barreled semiautos ,that or 38 special were not made to
over-penetrate for safety reason in city use for non collateral damage to inocent bystanders behind or near target.if you can find older buildings out of city set for demo use them for balistic test fire also to see how block or brick or wood hold up to different calibers and how much over penetration can happen in even pistol calibers !

NRA LIFE MEMBER

U. S. ARMY VET

"All gave some but some gave ALL"
 

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Mythbusters did an episode on this when they were trying to make an armored car with nothing but phone books for armor. They used a 9mm, .357mag, .45 acp,12 gauge slug, and an M14 to test the armor's effectiveness.

Here is a link to the video [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H35QB_c4uLA[/ame]
Pt. 2 w/ the m14
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_KxglaH5fu4[/ame]
 

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I have a bunch of AP ammo for my Garand....would love to shoot up a car or trucks engine. I shot a round into several plates of steel welded together..like over 1 1/4" thick, almost penetrated last plate, so I grinded that plate off an it sprung up in the air from the pressure of the bullet. I think it would of gone all the way through an kept going if it was only 1" thick.
 
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