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M14 Bedding Questions

1337 Views 1 Reply 2 Participants Last post by  30Caliber
I have done garands before, but will attempt my first m14 using an old stock and devcon steel putty.

My issue is: how to apply the barrel tension (downward) without removing the barrel band/cylinder etc. (I don't want to un-do what the builder already did on accurizing this rifle, so I don't want to dismantle the front end).

With the garand, proper tension can be applied using a coat hanger laid across the frnt of the stock (I think that is how it works!). Can I do similar wtih the m14? This will be a standard GI stock, so it prolly can't take a lot of tension without twisting.

Looking for advice...

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M1 Bedding Fixtures
Posted By: Maury Krupp <[email protected]>
Date: Monday, 5 January 2004, at 11:04 a.m.

I'm going to try my hand at bedding one of my M1s. Never done it before but figure I have to start somewhere. Even if it goes well I don't think I'll be doing a whole bunch of rifles.
I expect to put a lot of rounds through the rifles that I do, so I anticipate having to do maintenance or redo the bedding periodically.
Would getting the bedding fixtures Brownells offers be a good investment? Either from a "the right tool for the job" or the "pay for themselves eventually" aspect?

Re: M1 Bedding Fixtures
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Monday, 5 January 2004, at 11:33 a.m.
In Response To: M1 Bedding Fixtures (Maury Krupp)

I'm on record as saying the doughnut shaped fixture that comes as part of the kit is not only not necessary, but often detrimental, as we found out in the late 60's and early 70's on both Garands and M14's and here are the reasons:
It is supposed to center the barrel on the stock/stock ferrule BUT it makes NO allowance for the differences of the lower bands, or for the slot in the barrel for that holds the lower band pin (and this often is not perfectly at bottom dead center, so the lower band is often slightly crooked) AND it does not allow for the differences in the points where the ferrule and band meet.
If you look carefully, you will see the protruding "u" shape on the ferrule contacts the lower band at two points, one on each side of the lower band. Since the curvature of the inside of the lower bands vary slightly and the curvature/shape of the U shaped protrusion of the ferrule vary slightly, all of this works against using the doughnut to "center" the barrel. What it usually does is put more pressure on one side of the lower band than the other and that is not a uniform nor accurate way for the two parts to align. In both Garands and M14's that often causes one side to rub and not always return to the same position after the barrel is done whipping during recoil.
Another thing the doughnut shaped part will often do is cause the barrel to be slightly BENT left or right after the doughnut is taken off and the lower band installed. Far better to cut out room in the stock for the receiver to change position slightly (if necessary for the barrel to center on the stock ferrule and lower band) than to bend the barrel this way. Of course, the barrel is bent down a little no matter if one uses the doughnut or coat hanger method, but at least it is much more uniform when using the coat hanger method. If one finds the slim coat hanger material is just a bit too small in diameter, then one can skim glass the receiver and use the larger sized coat hanger material. I've never seen a case where one has to have something larger in diameter than the larger coat hanger material.
The "U" shaped thing Brownells has in the kit, that goes between the hole in the safety and the triggerguard, is handy for those with less experience doing bedding jobs. However, that isn't very hard to make yourself.
So, even though I'm a great one to invest in tools someone else already makes (and thus saves me money from making them) I can not recommend buying this kit from Brownell's. HTH

when I was initially fitting my M14 stock (still haven't had the time to get it bedded yet due to possibly moving soon), I took a bit too much off of the bottom end of the stock and the lockup is loose, but I figure at this point, it's not a bad thing, as it's just loose enough to allow the whole action to slide around in the stock (and I had previously been smart enough to outline where the receiver should sit correctly). I figure that this will allow the rifle/action to have the best chance to align itself stress free in the stock, especially when the coat hanger pushes up the front end of the barrel against the stock ferrule. The back end of the receiver is going to "float into place" when the trigger group (and my outline) locates it at the back end (I've hogged a lot of the back end of the stock out). Obviously, I've altered the dimensions of the stock from top to bottom as it's changed the lockup. I'd like to ensure that I get back the correct dimensions as they were designed to be (and get a snug lockup as a match rifle should have. I was wondering if the method that you'd sometimes mentioned before would be enough alone to space the trigger group out during bedding to re-establish the corrrect parellelism (if it is in fact parallel) between the trigger group and bottom of the receiver. What you mentioned was putting the shims between the shoulder of the trigger group and the bottom of the receiver where the "key" of the trigger group slides into the "keyway" on the receiver. I figure between the "key/keyway" fit lining things up straight and the compression from the shims, it should space in the proper fashion to the receiver, but I've not done that much bedding and thought I'd check out what you have to say.
PS. I was going to use the "shim" method as you do when bedding anyway, but was going to use the "U" also at the trigger guard, just as a gauge so I know when I'm at about the correct draw. However, I would rely on the shimming to do the real work.

Re: M1 Bedding Fixtures Sort of on the same lines, Gus
Posted By: Gus Fisher
Date: Tuesday, 6 January 2004, at 7:06 a.m.
In Response To: Re: M1 Bedding Fixtures Sort of on the same lines, Gus (Danny)

I often find I have to loosen up the receiver and trigger mechanism on M1A's to get them to align correctly.
The idea of using the shim and U shaped fixture on the triggerguard and safety usually works well, though sometimes I prefer to wire up the triggerguard in place by winding the wire around the hole in the safety and triggerguard, depending on the draw I feel with the shims.
Also, if the way the triggerhousing tightens down somewhat crookedly and causes the magazine well to be off canted a bit, you can use shims under one forward pad of the triggerhousing to get it to set right while you just glass the barreled receiver and the non shimmed pad side of the housing. Then after the glass hardens, it is then easy to take the shim out and roughen the surface of the glass under the non shimmed side and the housing is much easier to set in straight for you to finish glassing the whole housing. HTH

Gus, I'm glad that you said this...ctxt
Posted By: Danny <[email protected]>
Date: Tuesday, 6 January 2004, at 2:27 p.m.
In Response To: Re: M1 Bedding Fixtures Sort of on the same lines, Gus (Gus Fisher)

I'm glad that I saw you write this:
I often find I have to loosen up the receiver and trigger mechanism on M1A's to get them to align correctly.
When that happened by mistake, it dawned on me that I might want to do my rifles like that all the time (loosen up the draw and hot out around the receiver). Done that way, I can be sure that I'm glassing my receiver in totally staright alignment behind the barrel, which has been fixed dead center straight to the stock ferrule/band (and also to the same one that will be used on the rifle). I always wonder how plumb the receiver inletting is to the centerline of the barrel on most aftermarket stocks, particularly Boyds' (ugh). Doing it that way, the question is out of the picture.
Thanks for the pointers again.
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