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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I need to start putting together a Garand. Can't buy one outright right now. I've got a nice refinished hackwood stock and will be using a Walther barrel. Maybe a heavy in 30-06.

I need a receiver and I'd like a good one but need to know what makes and serial number ranges to look out for. I know Phil knows it all but he'll tell me and I'll forget so I have to start a thread to go back to and look at so I don't keep asking the same questions over and over until it's lodged securely in my brain housing group.

I'll basically need a receiver and parts kit. I'll probably source a lot of it from Orlando but I'll have to part out some rifles and sell some things I don't think he has receivers, so the receiver will be the challenge.

I could just shortcut it and buy a decent used Garand with a shot-out barrel and send the parts off to be refinished. But again, I just don't have an eye for what's good and what's not.

Looks like I might put up a Ruger MK1 and some other items for sale to get the ball rolling.

Any suggestions or leads would be helpful I can't pull the trigger on complete rifles or big stuff yet. I'm just in the planning phase.

Tony.
 

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Based on what I have seen, my personal opinion is that the H&R receivers are the nicest finished with the Beretta being a very close second or equal. I would avoid Winchester for cost and finish and IHC for cost. Also avoid any of the commercial receivers.

Other than that, it is hard to go wrong. At this point it is mostly how much pitting or lack there of and where it is on the receiver.
 

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Also, you might want to consider 7.62mm NATO vs. .30-06 just because ammunition is so much easier to get.

I don't build my Garands in .30-06 any more, partly/mostly because I don't have time to reload. If it's 7.62, I can grab the same Federal GMM off the shelf my M-14's use and go. But, if you do go 7.62 remember to reduce the size of your gas port.
 

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I think you are probably better off to buy a complete SG from the CMP, pull the barrel and sell it. Even if you didn’t sell it you would probably still be better off cost wise. A nice receiver is going to cost $4-500 and you will likely have that again in parts. Any GI receiver will work well.

However, if you decide to go with 7.62 the gas port will need to be larger not smaller.

Tell us more about these barrels.
 

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I think you are probably better off to buy a complete SG from the CMP, pull the barrel and sell it. Even if you didn’t sell it you would probably still be better off cost wise. A nice receiver is going to cost $4-500 and you will likely have that again in parts. Any GI receiver will work well.

However, if you decide to go with 7.62 the gas port will need to be larger not smaller.

Tell us more about these barrels.
That's what the guys in the M1 Garand section over on the CMP site are recommending when someone asks about building a M1 as well.

http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=255707

But I'm sure Tony has a few connections that most don't.
 

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I had a brain cramp. 4gundrill is correct about the gas port size. Sorry, Tony.

I was thinking about the fact that CMP orders their .308 barrels with a smaller port than spec to prevent over-gassing. This thread says it all: https://m14forum.com/steel-wood/77460-what-gas-port-size-308-garand.html

I don't remember what size CMP uses but it is much closer to the .096" that Gus discusses than the .105" spec.
 

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I would suggest a FG from the CMP, send off for a repark job and then add your new barrel. No need to make it difficult Tony, cause it's not.
 

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Ive done 3 308 barrel swaps ... all off CMP SG rifles...1st Kit was Cutdown Italian from SARCO like 14 years ago ... NEW parts throughout, worked out fine, the other 2 were CMP 308 Barrels. Easy to do.
 

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One receiver manufacture is no better than another. I probably would look for a SA or HRA Post War , all are equal in quality
I would order a complete rifle, a Service Grade from CMP and use those parts $750 shipped ,if you order a Field Grade there may be pitting above and below the wood line. If that doesn't bother you $650 shipped
Most of the Service Grades have been coming with new commercial wood . This is actually good if building a accurate rifle. USGI wood is normally compressed and will have loose lock up which is detrimental to accuracy
Just my opinion
 

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If you piece one together, I would recommend either an H&R or post-war Springfield receiver. They typically saw the least amount of use - especially combat use, and will have the best (original) finish. IHCs also fall into this category, but are less common and bring a higher price.
 

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Just 5 years ago CMP had receivers for $125. I still have 4 left set back for future builds.
Today expect to pay $350-$450 when you can find one . They come up on Gunbroker but at a higher price. This is why IMO buying a complete CMP garand makes more sense. If you need anything with your build let me know .
 

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A note on the cal change...Dont buy a En-Block 30-06 spacer...its useless, you will need to Ck Op rod Spring Length... I used 19.5 as my standard...you MAY need to open the gas port... dont do it till you ring the rifle out first...ie...single shots can be not just a gas issue, it can be Op-rod fit if its clocked a little off. Good Luck.
 

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Tony,

With regards to gas port size, I just asked Krieger about gas port size as my M1 barrel was purchased unchambered but marked .30-06. Their response was ".30-06 gas port diameter is .0785”. .308 Win gas port diameter is .086”. Mine was .086 and is chambered for .308 Win, functions perfectly.

John
 

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So I need to start putting together a Garand.

Tony.
YES!!!!!!! It has taken me many years too wear Tony down and finally go for a M1 Garand. I'm also hoping he makes the wise decision and goes with 7.62/.308 over the 30.06 even though I gave him 10 SA en-blocs and 5gal bucket 30.06 brass.

PS. I may have also stated there is a special place in #$% for guys too burn in that don't have a M1 in there stable.......


One receiver manufacture is no better than another. I probably would look for a SA or HRA Post War, all are equal in quality

Just my opinion
I told him the same, great minds think alike...


And how do I determine post war?

Tony.
4.2 and up SA, all HRA and IHC
See, I told you so, hahahhhaaaa..
 

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If you need anything with your build let me know .
Tony, Orlando has helped me with advice and various parts multiple times, and possibly without realizing it, helped develop my interest and passion into the M1 hobby. He, lapriester, and a few others (probably lots of others) are great sources of solid information and parts. If you aren't also member of the CMP Forum, you should be!

JGW
 

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Well, well, welcome to the world of M1's Tony! I'm sure you will do it justice. Orlando will treat ya right for sure with quality "everything" but if you decide not to go with a complete rifle from CMP for the receiver I have a person that probably has receivers from any era you want, Post War, etc. I'll send ya a PM with the email addy. Keep us posted on what ya do for sure, I know it will be a Classic example of the M1 rifle when you are done. GI2
 

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Unlike commercial M14 receivers, USGI Garand receivers seem to be very consistent on critical dimensions regardless of the maker.

Since essentially all Garands are used, the challenge is finding one in appropriate condition for what you want out of it. Since you said "heavy barrel" I'll assume you want match accuracy. I've seen externally pitted Garand receivers that were in excellent internal condition and I've never seen the opposite. Point being, if you see an externally rough looking receiver in person, don't pass it up until you look it over. Conversely, you can buy (on line) with some confidence an externally clean receiver and have some degree of confidence of internal quality relative to corrosion and wear.

I tend to look closely in a few areas if possible for clues to how much use it has had. Look at the SN print to see if it is deep and sharp. If not, the rifle has probably been refinished multiple times. Also check the elevation serrations for wear. Inspect the right rail where the bolt lug rolls into battery for unusual wear. Finally, if possible confirm the integrity of the bridge.
 
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