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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've hit the end of the internet looking for some old guy that has put this combination together on a post but never found it. Wanted to use the ARMS 18 for it's low profile, snag free design so I can still use my peep irons and not snag my scabbard when I remove the scope.
Looks great so far...


Learned real quick that the 43mm objective was not gonna be the problem. The 43mm Ocular is all on the peep sight. Had to do some figuring... Looks like ARMS 22 Medium rings this time .

 

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...Learned real quick that the 43mm objective was not gonna be the problem. The 43mm Ocular is all on the peep sight. Had to do some figuring... Looks like ARMS 22 Medium rings this time...
Depending on the length of the rear tube before the ocular bell starts to expand and the thickness of the rings you choose, you may be able to pull the scope far enough back that the ocular bell will sit behind the rear sight, not over it. That may also be more compatible with the scope's eye relief. If that works, get NoExpert's ring height calculator to make your life easier.
 

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Depending on the length of the rear tube before the ocular bell starts to expand and the thickness of the rings you choose, you may be able to pull the scope far enough back that the ocular bell will sit behind the rear sight, not over it. That may also be more compatible with the scope's eye relief. If that works, get NoExpert's ring height calculator to make your life easier.
+1, try to get the scope as low as possible. this way you won't have to have a brick for a cheek riser/pad. if your using a springfield armory bolt make sure you replace the extractor and spring with usgi parts. otherwise you'll run into fte's or stove pipes with the low arms mount.

good luck. post pics when you're done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if your using a springfield armory bolt make sure you replace the extractor and spring with usgi parts. otherwise you'll run into fte's or stove pipes with the low arms mount.
Yep, thanks... Heard that I might run into a problem and looking at where's best place to find them now. Would rather fix that one up front and avoid the grief. Any suggestions on where to buy??

Also need to get a shim kit. My front band is a rattler. Never thought anything about it until I read up on some of the stickies. Another one is to test different gas pistons. Once I get a good list of USGI parts and a vendor. I'll get'em all so as to cut down on shipping.

Great info from some great folks here. Thank you all.
 

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Yep, thanks... Heard that I might run into a problem and looking at where's best place to find them now. Would rather fix that one up front and avoid the grief. Any suggestions on where to buy??

Also need to get a shim kit. My front band is a rattler. Never thought anything about it until I read up on some of the stickies. Another one is to test different gas pistons. Once I get a good list of USGI parts and a vendor. I'll get'em all so as to cut down on shipping.

Great info from some great folks here. Thank you all.
you can get all the parts from fulton armory.
http://www.fulton-armory.com/
 

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We'll find out when the scope gets here by the weekend, I hope!!
Since Leupold has quite a few Mark 4 scopes and we don't know which one you're getting, it's hard to predict how it might work. The Mark 4 10x40 for example has a rear tube 2.2" long. I currently have a long discontinued Mark 4 MR/T 3-9x36 on an ARMS #18 on an LRB Tanker and with the rear ring all the way forward, there's about 1/8" clearance between the back of the rear sight and the front of the zoom ring.

One thing to keep in mind if the rear tube length makes fitting the scope a close call is that rings can go from relatively thin to humongous so the ring you choose may make keeping the scope low impossible. Real thick rings are sexy but a properly made thinner ring can do the job just fine too.
 

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...Also need to get a shim kit. My front band is a rattler. Never thought anything about it until I read up on some of the stickies...
If you've got a Springfield Armory rifle, you might try taking the gas lock off and turning it over, back to front. The timing of the threads on the SAI gas locks I've seen often aren't the same on both sides so where it locks up depends on which side faces the GC. You might get lucky!

...Wanted to use the ARMS 18 for it's low profile, snag free design so I can still use my peep irons and not snag my scabbard when I remove the scope.
Looks great so far...
I noticed you've discovered the set screw on the front of the mount interferes with the handguard. You can get a set screw without a head to replace theirs and it'll fit entirely inside the mount with no interference. I don't remember what size you need but I've read it's the same as the castle nut set screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you've got a Springfield Armory rifle, you might try taking the gas lock off and turning it over, back to front. You might get lucky!

I noticed you've discovered the set screw on the front of the mount interferes with the handguard. You can get a set screw without a head to replace theirs and it'll fit entirely inside the mount with no interference.
Thanks for the tips... Good Eye on the screw!! Yep, right in the way.
This is a pretty good project, so far. The help makes it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
EARLY DELIVERY... Two days, Wow !!!

What a surprise... got home and it was here. COOL!

Been playing with it and making measurements. The medium rings at 1.15" are gonna be too high. The low rings at .925 are gonna be almost touching.

I moved the scope where the best eye relief was and the peep is hitting the variable ring. If the rings are thin enough, like was said earlier, maybe just deal with holding back a half inch or so and get all kinds of clearance. At least 1/8", maybe more.

Check out my pics and tell me if you see it like I do...






Gonna order something tommorrow morning...
Most likely the low ARMS 22 Throw Levers. What say??
 

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Doesn't look like you're on center...

Try this... stack up some coins on the mount front and back till you just clear the rear sight with the eye piece/ power ring (needs to be the same kind of coins front and back). Then measure the stacks with your handy micrometer, add 15mm or .590 inch and you have the rail to scope center measurement. Then check that against the ARMS rings.
 

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...I moved the scope where the best eye relief was and the peep is hitting the variable ring. If the rings are thin enough, like was said earlier, maybe just deal with holding back a half inch or so and get all kinds of clearance. At least 1/8", maybe more...
When you checked for best eye relief, did you do it at the maximum magnification (the scope in the picture is set near minimum)? The range of best eye relief narrows as the magnification increases so you may have to pull it back after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Try this... stack up some coins on the mount front and back till you just clear the rear sight with the eye piece/ power ring
WAY too simple... why didn't i think of that?


M1AallTheWay said:
When you checked for best eye relief, did you do it at the maximum magnification?
Well, you got me. I will check that too. Didnt even look thru it at 8 power. Hope it works.
I was just so excited to get it in.
BANANA1


Gonna go scratch my head now... I'll be back.
 

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WAY too simple... why didn't i think of that?
Same reason I didn't, you didn't have the scope when you were trying to figure it out. M1AallTheWay presented that idea to me a while back which I think he said he got from a magazine. Regardless, this site is all about passing on info to help each other out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I noticed you've discovered the set screw on the front of the mount interferes with the handguard. You can get a set screw without a head to replace theirs and it'll fit entirely inside the mount with no interference. I don't remember what size you need but I've read it's the same as the castle nut set screw.
Yep... took a little while to find one but looks and works great. Thanks!! BEERCHUG1

Check it out...


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Central Engineering - BUBBA STYLE!!

Try this... stack up some coins on the mount front and back till you just clear the rear sight with the eye piece/ power ring (needs to be the same kind of coins front and back). Then measure the stacks with your handy micrometer, add 15mm or .590 inch and you have the rail to scope center measurement. Then check that against the ARMS rings.
I aint never had such a chuckle setting this up... BUT IT WORKED!! BIGOK





The 8 power setting did get optimal length a good bit closer AND the penny stack got a precise measure for whats going on. The stack added with half the 30mm is .9325". That's a tad higher than the ARMS low ring. However, the peep is now just 1/8" from clearing the variable ring. I can easily adjust that much to lock-in the lower set of rings.

Made up my mind...
"The ARMS 22 Low throw-lever rings are about to get ordered!!" BANANA1

Thanks for all the help. We'll turn this scabbard Scout into a real shooter in just a short while. While I'm waiting on parts, I'm gonna try flipping the gas block around like suggested earlier and see if the front band tightens up. That'd be cool. Updates when I get'em. Thanks again!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
... if your using a springfield armory bolt make sure you replace the extractor and spring with usgi parts.
Been looking hard to find a USGI extractor and spring for my Springer bolt. None at Fulton Armory or Smith Enterprise. Gunbroker has one for $48 plus shipping. Finally got one at eSarco... Hope it's not Chinese. USA2
 

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Try sherluk.com they had extractors at gun show in Columbus, OH today... also an M1 extractor works too, if you don't shoot blanks.
 

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Gonna order something tommorrow morning...
Most likely the low ARMS 22 Throw Levers. What say??
While not attempting to conjure a storm of controversy, I would suggest that you avoid A.R.M.S. throw lever rings...or A.R.M.S. anything for that matter.

If you are not stuck on using the A.R.M.S. receiver mount that you currently own, you might consider selling it, and trying a Sadlak rail, instead.



In Larue low rings, the Mark 4 MR/T will easily clear your rear aperture sight.

I recently posted some photos here and here, which illustrate both scope clearance and the iron sight picture with the Sadlak and Larue combination.
 
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