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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED SOLD!




OOOPS. See the comment below from a former collector. My impressions of this seem to be incorrect!! If this doesn't happen, well...






This seemed not to be a hand-made blade by any stretch. However, it is probably a re-fitted ancestral (OLD) blade. It's the officer's version of the Gunto Katana, and seems to have at some time been polished and/or otherwise reconfigured. It's been in storage, in petroleum jelly, for decades. The metal tassel loop has been replaced with a fabric hoop. One friend who used to collect these said that was sometimes "original" toward the end of WW2. Me, I don't know. The wood dowel pin is missing (replaced with a temporary plastic pin), and there is some play in the tsuba/menuki (GRIP) area. A larger pin would likely obviate this issue. Blade LOOKS nearly perfect. It isn't, tiny bit of tip is missing. I have more photos. No rust I can perceive, no pits I can see, but view the links to the blade closeups on flickr.com for more information and images. Some paint loss on scabbard. Lock is intact, moves, but low on tension.

I was told, long ago, by an "expert" this had probably been polished in Japan. However, I don't know, and I am no longer interested in researching to find out.

Once upon a time, I had good reference materials on Japanese blades, but that has been gone for two decades.

All my blades were purchased long ago from veterans, not dealers, and I began fooling with this stuff about 1960. These have probably been packed in grease for around 50 years, and traces of that are on some of the photos.

I wiped them off just enough to photograph them.

I'm retired, and my "junk" is just about my only form of pension!!


This is about as low a price you'll find on a vintage Katana of genuine military background. Most reproductions are higher!!

It is authentic World War II, and I think the blade has been "doctored".

I am thinking $400 + $52.00 SHI to the lower 48.

Here are some additional shots:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362708/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362698/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362688/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362688/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362658/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/29902362638/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43056684984/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43056684934/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43056684904/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/42578714975/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/43483263881/in/photostream/

This isn't for a die-hard or advanced collector, but is a decent specimen with flaws that looks good. And it's all WW2, probably (although I am not entirely sure I have the RIGHT veteran) one of the cache an old Marine acquired on Okinawa in 1945.

It was purchased and returned by a gentleman who seems to have misunderstood that it was not "pure" or "untouched" despite my best efforts to explain what it SEEMED to be.

At one time, I had a lot of Japanese and German blades, and had salted away the ones I thought would interest me "later". Well, "later" came and passed, and now I want to see them gone.

Best way to view the flickr.com stuff is to sign in with ANY Yahoo i.d., view as you wish, and you may then magnify, enlarge, even modify the images to view. It is almost impossible to download from my collection, but it's much better than imagery here.

There are over 8400 shots in my collection alone. Many huge public collections are displayed/shared on flickr.com.

Advise if interested. It works best to e-mail me, but I do check messages here fairly regularly.

Again: this would NORMALLY be a machine made blade of WW2 vintage or slightly before. This is the officer's version without the blood gutter/fuller. It's army, albeit a great many of these (none bore obvious maker's marks) were made by naval arsenals.

But this seems "ancestral".
 

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I believe that is an ancestral blade, it has been refit, the rust on the tang is fairly dark also. The tsuka fitting next to the tsuba has a Mon, and the habaki is not the standard gunto fitting. The blade dose appear to have grain and a faint hamon in your photos, although there were plenty of machine made blades with etched hamons and straight grained steel. If I still collected Japanese swords I would buy it.

Good price, good luck with your sale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I probably should raise the price in light of that info, but I won't.

This stuff was bought to help out vets half a century ago. Most of them came off Okinawa, others from a naval veteran who picked his up in Nagoya.

Some I have practically nothing in, others I traded for, a few...I just don't know.

But now, it's time to get rid of the stuff.
 

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I'll take this. I've been wanting a Jap sword for a while now and they are sooo many options to consider. This may satisfy me at a much lower cost than others I have viewed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Item seems to be sold--now let's see if I can figure out how to so mark it!!

Looks to be sold pending funds.

I think it's a rather rare and unusual sword, and I suspect the reconfiguration or polishing of the blade, in particular, amplifies its authenticity, rather than diminishes it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How can I delete this, or mark it "sold" adequately? Please advise.

This item is Sold, pending funds, and I want to change it to "sold" status.

Can someone advise me how to do that in the next few days?

When I have time, I'll search for a tutorial, in case there is one.

Right now, it's my habit to package my toys quickly, so I will start that process IMMEDIATELY.

Thanks in advance.
 

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This item is Sold, pending funds, and I want to change it to "sold" status.

Can someone advise me how to do that in the next few days?

When I have time, I'll search for a tutorial, in case there is one.

Right now, it's my habit to package my toys quickly, so I will start that process IMMEDIATELY.

Thanks in advance.
You can edit the ad by clicking on edit on the bottom of the main ad, then click “go advanced”. Then switch the title from “for sale”, to “sold”
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
thanks

You can edit the ad by clicking on edit on the bottom of the main ad, then click “go advanced”. Then switch the title from “for sale”, to “sold”
Thanks for reminding me/advising me. I was pretty sure I'd done it properly last time. If I did, I suppose I just dundered into it, much as I blundered around and managed to get photos in here.

I'll wait until I have purchaser's address info, then switch it. That way, if he changes his mind or something odd happens, there won't be confusing double meaning switcheroos.

Probably later tonight, but surely before Tuesday.

Again, thanks.
 

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If the deal falls through "I will take it" Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
It's been a week since last contact, so I have to consider the original offer null and void.

By the way, the "ancestral blade" notation has now been affirmed by another collector. It seems solid.

Also, I have some misgivings about the price, now that I know the blade it much older.

Retirement issue or no, I'm going to give it a few days.

I'll deal with it when I have things more sorted out.
 
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