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Sorry if it's a dumb question, I'm new to the M1A. But this is my pride and joy so I can't help but be concerned.

I recently had a moisture problem that caused the BLO that the SA factory used to finish my walnut stock to sort of strip away to the point where I could feel the wood fibers and it had that "furry" feeling. So I sanded the stock down and put on 8 coats of BLO and let it dry for 3 days. I took it out to the range last weekend and went through about 80 rounds. Last night, I noticed that the front of the stock where my support hand goes felt and showed a little bit of wear.

I presume this is from my hands (and hands of friends) handling the rifle, and therefore causing wear. By "wear" I just mean that I can vaguely feel the wood fibers, and it doesn't have that smooth finish like when after a fresh coat of BLO. If this is the case, do you recommend that I add on a few more coats of BLO? If so, do I have to sand it down again and start over? Should I just relax and leave it alone?
 

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Unless you seal the wood with a spar type polyurethane or epoxy, all oils need to be reapplied regularly.

Even then, you are only protecting it from liquid water, not vapor (humidity).

There is a very good reason why the military switched to fiberglass stocks.
 

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Try some 0000 steel wool on the whole stock. Did you finish with 800 grit sandpaper? You can also wet sand with BLO/tung/teak oil.
 

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that's why god invented plastic
 

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Sand lightly with 600 and work through to 1200. If you sand hard or against the grain you will rip the wood fibers which is the furry feeling you have. When you get to 1200 or even 1600, if you go that far, you can practically polish the wood with the paper. Sanding the front of the grip is tough because it gets to a point where you are sanding the ends of the fibers or places where grain is nearly nonexistent. In this area you should sand lightly in itty bitty circles, lightly. Never use steel wool on wood because the wool fibers can get in the wood pores.
 

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Anything you can use to smooth the surface, I like to "wet" sand with tung or BLO personally, 220/320/400 is as far as I go with 24hr cure intervals. I like Toms 1/3 stock wax as a top coat. 0000 Steel wool scrub with oil also works but as noted can leave steel fibers behind.

Of note, SAI uses Boyds stocks so it's not anything that Springfield does.
 

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Anything you can use to smooth the surface, I like to "wet" sand with tung or BLO personally, 220/320/400 is as far as I go with 24hr cure intervals. I like Toms 1/3 stock wax as a top coat. 0000 Steel wool scrub with oil also works but as noted can leave steel fibers behind.

Of note, SAI uses Boyds stocks so it's not anything that Springfield does.
 
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