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Discussion Starter #1
So what I have here is a Polytech M14. Background: My father bought it when I was a kid and it was "mine." I shot it a few times, my dad did some moving, I was at school and getting into my career, and it was put away. During this time my dad said he had all of his arms in proper storage and all was good and never wanted to get it out for me when I was older.

Without a long story it wasn't all good and the storage wasn't the best. I have it now and it needs a lot of love. I had it and cleaned it up (somewhat) but as a project it has been on the way back burner. The barrel is good thank God. I shot it a couple of times in the fall and it is not throwing rounds all over. I can' tell you exact accuracy but with the rear site it was able to be "grouped" paper-plate-MOA at 100 yards with surplus ammo.

I'm ready to start putting the money and effort into it, so let me tell you what I want from this rifle. I want it to be a shooter and maybe some use in some local rifle competitions. The wood on it needs to go. I'm not really planning on using it for hunting and I'm not looking for high-speed-low-drag in an EBR stock or Tack-driver in a JAE stock. I'm actually looking for a spare Springfield synthetic stock (preferably OD) because I actually like that stock.

I'd like to get it cleaned up and get any necessary parts replaced. That includes whatever I need to replace to be allowed to mount a flash hider or brake (not worried about bayo lug) within legalities because the fake addition is an embarrassment.

I can tell right away I need to replace the rear sight assembly completely fubared. I don't need a national match set or anything, but speaking of optics I eventually would like to put some type of optic between 3x to 6x on it eventually, preferably fixed power. Any thoughts on that best setup?

I'm looking for advice as far as where to start, info on this series Poly, if refinishing is needed, and leads on parts (used is fine) is greatly appreciated. Basically, just a general, "What would you do?"


So here are the pics, I look forward to your replies.























 

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From all the threads on this forum about stocks....you really don't want a SAI synthetic stock (unless it's been reinforced internally) as they flex too much when the rifle is fired. Use the PX/BX section for all your parts needs, which may include a GI synthetic stock and a real flash hider. If you're going to work on your rifle yourself, and need some tips on how it's done, use the forum search button to research your topic.
 

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First thing I would do is field strip it and start wiping oil on it. I would probably use Kroil. It will damage the finish. but in this case I don't see it making much difference. I would try to get rid of as much rust as possible off before any disassembly using steel wool or scotch-brite. Once you get it completely apart clean it real good. Possibly have it reparked/refinished. Hopefully you just have surface rust and no pitting.
As far as mods go it really just depends on your budget. Check headspace. A lot of people replace the bolts in these because headspace grows. Replace the fake flash suppressor. Coast guard FS are relatively cheap and effective. For looks put in a walnut stock. For durability use USGI fiberglass. Avoid the new SAI plastic ones. You might be surprised at what you can do with the stock you have if you have time to spend and some ability in refinishing.
The cheapest mod is shimming the gas cyl. Cleaned up with the stock fitting and the trigger working smooth, with decent ammo it probably will shoot 1-2 inch groups at 100 yards. If you want better than that you are just going to have to spend money. GI1
Take it slow. Get to know her. Use the search feature here. Read some of the threads in the armourers section. Start watching PX.
 

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I agree 100% with IH 1026, any of the standard contour barrels will shoot like crap with the synthetic stock. At least with a GI fiberglass stock you will be able to achieve some barrel tension. Without that your groups will likely start at the top of the target and by the 10th shot you could be off the bottom of the target!
You are very lucky to live where parts are relitively easy to source. My favorite place is treelinem14 as they have the majority of what I need and they ship to Canada. You have a great resource in the classifieds here, Brownells, and so many other forums as well.
I have at least 1000 rounds through my M14S Norinco and they are great shooters, have never had a parts failure in all that time.
On some the trigger can be lightened considerably by just replacing the hammer spring with a USGI one. The original spring in my trigger group was about twice as hard to compress so couldn't lighten the trigger until I changed this $8.00 item!
For the most part USGI parts will fit the Norinco but be aware the threads for the gas lock nut and the flash hider are metric so if you change these parts you will need to use the Norinco fasteners. The gas plug is metric also.
USGI parts that fit directly in my experience are trigger group, rear sights, oprod spring guide and spring
(replace spring and guide as an assembly as Norinco parts are metric but USGI fits perfect if both replaced at the same time)
You are very lucky the rust seems to be concentreted on the outsie of the reciever for the mot part but would look very closely at the bolt and inside of the reciever as well.
TonyBen and others on youtube are fantastic and will answer 99% of your questions or at least give you an idea of what other questions to ask. Sorry for the long post but the Norinco M14 clone is a lot of fun to work on and so many of the mods are pretty cheap while making a big difference.
Rodney
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the answers so far, guys.

Just to let everybody know I'm not a complete M1 n00b, I grew up shooting Garands and Carbines and Springer M1a's, I've just never had to dive this deep into one before. The metric threading info is great and I'll remember that.

I'm really surprised to hear the negative points about the Springer stock! I'm looking for something other than wood so I may have to look at the GI's and possibly refinish it.

Anybody have a lead on some bargain USGI rear sight assemblies?
 

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If it were mine I would lose everything but the receiver and the barrel and replace it with USGI. I might even replace the barrel with a new Criterion if after load testing the old one wasn't up to snuff, e.g. able to shoot surplus ball into 3-4" at 100 yards with irons.

It sounds like an expensive proposition, and it is, but the Chinese receivers are known to be very good; the bolts, op rods etc., not so much.

What Memphis said IRT the corrosion is spot on. Rust never sleeps, and the longer it's in place, the worse the damage.
 

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First thing is to have a good guide book for info about how to disassemble and re-assemble for detail cleaning.

To clean/remove the surface rust, I'd use scotch-brite, or fiber pot/pan scrubber, and light oil or kerosene. I wouldn't remove the stripper clip guide - just dribble some oil/kerosene and clean as best you can with toothbrush and Q-tips. Also remove the rear sight parts, but don't disassemble the elev or wind knob. Hopefully the rear sight will be useable after cleaning and lube.
Remove and inspect the bolt - if firing pin, extractor, ejector, and lug roller move freely then I wouldn't disassemble further just a few drops of oil for the internal parts, and grease on the roller.

Use the proper tools to clean the gas system.

A fiber pad can also be used on the stock for cleaning.

Before buying or changing any parts, my goal would be do a thorough cleaning and lube -and then determine what more needs to be done.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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I'd send it to...

Jon Wolfe with a check and pray............he is one of the best and I guarantee you a fine , fixed shooter when he sends it back.
 

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All i did to mine is an trigger pollishing and replaced the spring guide little pollishing on the bolt rails and mine shoots moa dont bother changing to much in less you haft to there are alot of haters that will say this and that but ill put my rifle up against any other m1a
 

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I can't see the pics... or read dates, apparently. Looked right at the first post and thought it was from two weeks ago.

The oldening has started.
 

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All i did to mine is an trigger pollishing and replaced the spring guide little pollishing on the bolt rails and mine shoots moa dont bother changing to much in less you haft to there are alot of haters that will say this and that but ill put my rifle up against any other m1a
I've had a chicom M14/S for about 20 yrs (bought it new) and All I've done to it is shoot it! In the very large majority of cases there is NO good/legitimate reason to make a bunch of parts changes in spite of what the so called "Expurtz" say!
I've also got a chicom M14 select fire rifle and like the semi, all I've done to it is shoot is!
Here is the heard - l to R. FN/FAL, an M14/S and 2 M 14s - all chicoms and a very early AR 15. 3 or the 5 are select fire.
Sarge
 
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