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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
O.K.. I've searched the forum as best as I could, and still have this question/problem. :?: One of my M14s has a castle nut on soooo tight I 've ruined a castle nut wrench trying to loosen it, used a vise w/leather padding to hold the barrel and leather grip pad with channel lock pliers on the nut, but no moving it. Ummm. Oh, yes, I did remove the locking set screw first :mrgreen: before any of these attempts. I don't want to use heat. I am at ideas' end. I bought the rifle used. Shoots 3/4" groups with match ammo @100 yds., on a rest, but I want to put a NM flash suppressor on it. The one on now is not taper bored. Any suggestins would be appreciated. :idea:
 

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I don't know how it will work for a flash hider nut, but I have never had any automotive fastener fail to release after spraying (and letting it sit to work for a while) with "Kroil" penetrating lubricant. This always works to help loosen corroded, tight fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeppir! I agree about the accuracy thing. I am very pleased with that aspect. :mrgreen: I forgot to add however, that I did the Kroil thing twice before my attempts. I guess if I ever needed to change any thing attached to the barrel behind the suppressor I will have to go the expert gunsmith route. :roll: By the way, the barrel's only marking is "OLY", is this an Olympia barrel? Can anyone help on this queston?
 

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If you decide to proceed with fixing something that isn't broke :D

Since you've ruined a set of piliers I would guess that you were either turning the nut the wrong direction :D or whomever tightened it put locktite on the threads. I recall reading somewhere that heat will soften red locktite enough to remove the bolt, nut etc.
 

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Aloha GSD:

Welcome Aboard... That castle nut can be on there TIGHT!!!

If you have tried all and failed, you might consider this thought. Keep the assembly in the vise as you had it. Put a lot of Kroil or penetrating oil and let it sit... the take an appropriate sized drift punch and tap the castle nut just to "break it" then use a good castle nut pliers to fully remove the nut.

This may booger up the castle nut, but it will get it off. Castle nut are cheap and readily available. But be careful, you don't want a job that looked like "Bubba" done it!

With that said... I would NOT recommend removal of the FH simply to change it to a NM type. If you are getting 3/4" groups, it could be because the FH assembly is so tight that it is causing "good" harmonics on your barrel giving you or contributing to the accuracy. Changing it could impair the groups you are getting.

Lastly, the only reason that the NM ones were reamed was because Match shooters shot in the rain and they felt the rain droplets deflected the flight of the bullet... I am not 100% sold on this idea...

Aloha,

Tom O.
 

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dighawaii said:
Lastly, the only reason that the NM ones were reamed was because Match shooters shot in the rain and they felt the rain droplets deflected the flight of the bullet
I suspect the real reason this was done was back in the days when they first shot 174g match bullets out of barrels with a twelve inch twist. The heavier bullets were barely stabilized and probably wobbled a wee bit as they exited the barrel. Shoot enough of them and occasionally the flash hider gets hit. Hit the flash hider and your match scores crash and burn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks all for your suggestions and the help. I was kinda figuring since it was so tight that the whole assembly is in"tune" with its Karma (and no Greg :wink: ) and it will certainly be a loooong time before I shoot out the barrel and have to replace it. I knew about some heat and the locktite, however, I don't want to really mess myself up with a heat application. The castle nut will stay on. I will grin :D , widely, with every group my tired eyes will give me. This is a gift horse I will feed and care for. I just can't believe my luck with this one and another I bought off Gunbroker. Both are super accurate. I made a coworker so jealuous that he now wants one too. (he's just afraid of his wife :twisted: ) Thanks again. If I get real desperate the correct size punch in a notch to break things loose will be my next step.
 

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If it is locktited on, a little heat from a butane lighted will be enough to soften the locktite. It won't take much. Do you have a gas cylinder lock wrench and a GI flash supressor nut tool? The GI tool is much stronger than the non GI tools.

Regards

Ox
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I got my castle nut off 8O . My Springfield Armory castle nut wrench arrived to day and it loosened that tight nut. Of course, I think the five day soak with Kroil helped too. Anyway, not much torque was needed as it turned out. Just a good wrench, and gas cylinder lock wrench and steady even pressure. No evidence of any Locktite on the threads. Now I am back to calm blue oceans, white sandy beaches and very, very tight groups. :wink: Hey, wait a minute :!: I live in Florida, I already have the first two. Ah, but very, very tight groups are the MOST important :mrgreen:
 
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