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Discussion Starter #1
This is the second (out of two) M1A rifles I've bought with an operating rod guide that looks like this:





Come on guys, really????
 

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What can you say, some folks live by the axiom "use a bigger hammer"

I appreciate wanting to so something yourself, but so many dont have proper tooling and jury rig to save money on tooling.

I will no longer buy used rifles I cant inspect as every one I have purchased used had some damage or undisclosed issues.

Sad, but the only way to avoid disappointment is seems is to buy new or lay your hands on it first. The premium, I have found, is worth the amount of hassle saved.

At least those Sage op rod blocks are cheap and a relatively easy swap.
 

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A good many guides exhibit tight fits and care must be exercised when installing them. I don't install a guide that will not at least start onto the boss supporting it. If it won't start the barrel should be turned down on a lathe. The guide should be snug however.

A simple driver can be made using a length of 7/8" ID galvanized pipe with an end cap to pound on. You can buy a 18" length at the hardware store. Cut the threaded area off one end and remove the burrs. It's perfect for standard and medium length barrels.

Care must be taken to insure the pin hole lines up with the barrel groove. The guide can be aligned with a large Crescent wrench. If it has a very tight fit, a extension handle on the wrench may be required.
 

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When I install mine, it was pretty easy to remove and install the new sage op rod guide. I used a small brass hammer and slower tap it in place and I did re-use the roll pin came off the SA rod guide.
 

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When installing SAGE stocks I usually don't install the roll pin on the op rod guide. This allows the barrel to expand as it heats up without causing a bind between the barrel and stock. While I not entirely sure if this is a major issue, I believe it is beneficial to accuracy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A good many guides exhibit tight fits and care must be exercised when installing them. I don't install a guide that will not at least start onto the boss supporting it. If it won't start the barrel should be turned down on a lathe. The guide should be snug however.

A simple driver can be made using a length of 7/8" ID galvanized pipe with an end cap to pound on. You can buy a 18" length at the hardware store. Cut the threaded area off one end and remove the burrs. It's perfect for standard and medium length barrels.

Care must be taken to insure the pin hole lines up with the barrel groove. The guide can be aligned with a large Crescent wrench. If it has a very tight fit, a extension handle on the wrench may be required.
I use a piece of 1" PVC pipe. It's the grey PVC electrical conduit with a little thicker wall than the sch. 40 water pipe. It fits over the med. weight match barrel perfectly.
 
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check out the home gun smithing on YouTube

I agree, not buying used or "I built it myself" without extensive inspection. YouTube AR builds are the best - multitool, hammer, and a vise sitting on a bar stool while kneeling on the floor....
 

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I was surprise when I install my sage stock, I use a brass hammer to tap the rod guide in. During remove the factory rod guide I use a ball hammer to tap it out. I guess I was lucky.
 
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