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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Over Easter I bought a light weight usi profile sock from fulto armory on thier Easter sale, I like it a lot, I put several coats of boiled linseed oil on it and put my action in it, I cannot lock my trigger group down, too much material. My question is do I remove material from stock in location A or B or both?

I read a thread a while back where Gus talked about a measurement from the top of stock, where the RX sits to B, does any one remember the post?
http://m14forum.com/gus-fisher/133429-how-tell-if-draw-tension-trigger-guard-too-much-tension.html
This is NOT it but a good one.
Thanks.
 

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Before you go relieving it are you using the heel of your hand to lock down the trigger guard? If so, try a quick smack using a small rubber mallet instead.

The tighter lockup is, the better. The wood will eventually compress and become easier after a few removals anyway.

If it still won't lockup, you can remove a very small bit at a time from the trigger pads (A), but honestly it shouldn't need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Before you go relieving it are you using the heel of your hand to lock down the trigger guard? If so, try a quick smack using a small rubber mallet instead.

The tighter lockup is, the better. The wood will eventually compress and become easier after a few removals anyway.

If it still won't lockup, you can remove a very small bit at a time from the trigger pads (A), but honestly it shouldn't need it.
I put some serious force on it and it will not lock down, if I push any harder I will break or bend the the trigger guard.
 

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I would put the trigger group in. Then use an e-xacto razor knife to (carefully) trace around the trigger pads (A) a couple of times. Then use a very sharp 1/4" wood chisel to remove maybe a 1/32" at a time, then recheck the lock-up. repeat as needed.
 

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It looks like thers has not been any wood removed from the area the the trigger pads sit down. Look at a regular stock, you will see that the pad area is rermoved some. I would start there; than if need be remove some where the trigger guard locks up at.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would put the trigger group in. Then use an e-xacto razor knife to (carefully) trace around the trigger pads (A) a couple of times. Then use a very sharp 1/4" wood chisel to remove maybe a 1/32" at a time, then recheck the lock-up. repeat as needed.
Ok, so start with area A.
 

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Ok, Gus is saying in step 1. measure the depth of the hole where the rear of the trigger housing sits.

If your measurement is different from what he says, than in step 2, you have to remove wood from the pads, like what Covert and I said.

Gus whants you to put grease down so you can see the area you need to remove because the pads are not flat.!!!


You might also want to use a good wood rasp or wood file..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks COO, Measured mine it is 1.75 so it's .05 thicker then what Gus says.
So I should remove material from B until it is 1.70, then if still to tight start removing material from pad area in A.

Thanks for the clarification. I feel very comfortable with a chisel in area B, (I'm a finish carpenter) and my thought was also to use a rasp or file on area A, I'm very comfortable using a rasp.

Thanks fellas.
 

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Does the receiver fit well up top? Is it springfield or other type of receiver? If you get stupid and remove too much you can bed the trigger group to get that tension back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The receiver is an LRB M25 and it fits very nice down into the stock, very snug and flat, full contact between the rx bottom and stock.
 

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Here's how I route around the left and right contact feet for the trigger group. I also hog out wood under the tang where the trigger is and fill that area with bedding compound, then route out clearance for the trigger. Here's a before and after of the left and right feet and the after bedding of the rear trigger housing tang

Tony.
 

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By the way, there's a hole going clear from the top to the bottom under the stock liner because I bedded the whole stock, top and bottom and created a solid pillar of bedding connecting the two.

For you, since you're just bedding the trigger group, you just need to clear some wood under the contact points and fill it with bedding material. You don't need to make the hole clear through like I did.

Here's how I clay the trigger group...

Tony.
 

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I just snapped a few pics for the area you're inquiring about.

The sample stock seems to run a little on the short side. Also, it's hard to get an accurate measurement for this, I placed the lower caliper on the contact point and looked over the top of the stock until the upper caliper was even with the top plane of the receiver.

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I calipered mine and it was 1.75 so I will be taking material off of area B first. I'll start there and see what happens, time to sharpen up the chisel, I might try my Dremmel tool, I use it a lot to inlet the screws on my front swivels and the 2 forward rails on my stocks.

I think this was a good post, I feel confident to cut on my new stock.
 
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