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Discussion Starter #1
Background details:

Rifle: SA SOCOM 16
Scope: Burris 2-7x32 Scout Scope
Mount: Factory scout rail.
Targets: 38" X 25" paper

In the factory plastic stock I was down to about 2 MOA. I purchased one of the Original Delta 14 Chassis stocks back in Feb of 2019. I have gone to the range twice now and results have not been good. First trip was at 100 yards and rifle was shooting very high, about 2-3 feet. I inspected the rifle and the heat shield was in hard contact with the new stock despite having been sanded to clear the factory stock. I went to the range today with the heat shield removed with similar results on the 50 yard range with scope and irons. I have emailed Delta 14 Chassis for troubleshooting as well, but don't expect to hear anything back until during the week when I won't be able to mess with the rifle right away. Where should I start? Thanks in advance.
 

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I had this issue back when I had a delta 14. It fits the action very tight. What I found out is that it puts a ton of draw pressure on the barrel which seems to translate to the rounds impacting very high. I had a Bula 19.25” rifle in the chassis and I ended up having to put a tall front sight from LRB arms on the rifle to allow me to zero. I ended up selling that chassis and put my rifle into a black feather instead. Allowed me to go back to a standard front sight.


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Im interested in the results of this thread. Been looking hard at this chassis for a second m1a.
 

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It’s a good chassis. I really liked mine but had to sell it at the time to help a family member out with some bills. Ended up going with a black feather later on. It’s nice because you don’t need to make any mods to the action to install it in the delta 14 and the price is great for what you get. Makes a good cerakote host too lol. Groupings were about the same as a walnut stock for me.


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You need to check and ensure that your legs are seated properly. If they are not, this is one suggested method.

Remove trigger group, muzzle brake, remove the gas system, take off the hand guard, take off the scope mount that is on the barrel(if still installed).

From the bottom of the stock- put in a wide piece of wood to stretch the stock- do this approximately 2" ahead of the factory Delta14 receiver leg reliefs- you want the wood wedge to stretch out the stock approximately 1" total side to side. Put the barreled action into stock, it should fit where the leg reliefs are now. Remove the wedge. If the stiffness of the stock pushes the receiver out of place, you will need to use a small mortising bit to deepen the reliefs for the receiver legs. It you have a small machinist jack and can insert it to stretch out the stock side to side, until the barreled action fits fine, then remove the jack(still expanded), mic the jack, mic the stock's factory distance between the receiver leg reliefs. Subtract the factory relief width from the expanded. Divide by 2. This tells you how deep you need to relieve the stock legs reliefs with a small endmill(preferred) or a mortising bit(will work).

1. mark where clearance needs to be for the legs.
2. preferably use a milling machine with a small end mill or mortising bit- 1/8" or 1/4"
3. STOP BEFORE YOU reach the "stretched" stock width- remember you want it snug.

4. You may need to shim the gas cylinder, if you've not already unitized it to the barrel band.

If you have unitized the gas cylinder to barrel band or the above does not work: Consider the positioning of the legs and the gas system to where the stock ferrule would be. If necessary, you can remove material on the stock where the stock ferrule goes. If you have no other tools to do it, put a fine grit belt on a belt sander and only make a fine pass or two- keep in mind doing this may necessitate also further fitting the receiver to the stock(leg position reliefs).

That is how I fitted mine. Remember, you can remove material, you cannot put it back.

If I misunderstand your problem, disregard this. Best wishes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I sent a message to Delta 14 Chassis at the same time as posting here and I received a phone call from the owner yesterday. He believes that its a case of stacked tolerances and he believes he knows what modifications need to happen to get it back to "zero". They are going to adjust one of their chassis and then send it to me free of charge to correct the issue. Hopefully what they do fixes it and he said I can do what I want with the chassis i currently have so I might look into the checks/mods that geardocVME2 suggests. Will update when I get the new chassis in. Thanks again for your responses.
 
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