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Discussion Starter #1
I recently moved a rifle from a stock to an EBR chassis. With the stock it was shooting about 2 MOA with a milsurp and a red dot. When I started with the chassis today, it was much worse due to the barrel tensioner. I backed the tension screw completely out and that improved accuracy somewhat, but not quite what it was before. If I set minimal tension with it, groups were tighter, but would throw a random flyer every once in a while.

Is there a proper method for setting the tension on it?

Also, has anyone tried removing the pin from the op rod guide? It seems to me that if the pin it removed, it would allow for the barrel to "float" a little more within the chassis.
 

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I recently moved a rifle from a stock to an EBR chassis. With the stock it was shooting about 2 MOA with a milsurp and a red dot. When I started with the chassis today, it was much worse due to the barrel tensioner. I backed the tension screw completely out and that improved accuracy somewhat, but not quite what it was before. If I set minimal tension with it, groups were tighter, but would throw a random flyer every once in a while.

Is there a proper method for setting the tension on it?

Also, has anyone tried removing the pin from the op rod guide? It seems to me that if the pin it removed, it would allow for the barrel to "float" a little more within the chassis.

The tensioner as you call it is actually a "whip " screw and not a barrel tension / contact point.
I set mine by using a .002 feeler gauge between the barrel and the screw. I tightened the screw until it made contact with the feeler gauge and it slides out. I do not think you want it incontact with the barrel.

I did not pin my op rod guide block but lined mine up very accurately so there was no tension or forcing it into the chassis to make it fit. The barrel should fit the guide block firmly and be attached to the chassis with the proper torque with no binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I will try that with the whip screw tonight.

I have the pin in at the moment, and it fits without binding. However, I can't help but think that when the op rod block is torqued into the chassis, it's exerting force on the barrel through the pin that it otherwise wouldn't. I will shoot with it in today, then remove it for the next shooting and see what happens.
 

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The tensioner as you call it is actually a "whip " screw and not a barrel tension / contact point......
Agreed....
However, my best groups were made when I ran the screw down to just touching plus a hair.
I'm sure they will all like a different setting. Not sure if there is a universal sweet spot.
 

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In the gilded halls of Valhala
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i set mine with a slip of construction paper now.

its a misnomer (one i have spread) that its a barrell tensioner.

place a thick sheet of paper and lower the screw so when you tug it wont come free

slowly loosen untill the paper slides out easily

you dont want the screw touching.

i learned the hard way. if you have it touching your shots will not print good ten shot groups.

i recently retuned and if i can get caught up at work(i keep wasting time here) then ill get to the range .
 

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Agreed....
However, my best groups were made when I ran the screw down to just touching plus a hair.
I'm sure they will all like a different setting. Not sure if there is a universal sweet spot.
This...every rifle will be different and even load changes will effect how it reacts to the screw. Some barrels may need a little tension. They certainly do in a wood stock but the wood stock flexes a lot more than the EBR. All case sensitive.
 

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In the gilded halls of Valhala
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This...every rifle will be different and even load changes will effect how it reacts to the screw. Some barrels may need a little tension. They certainly do in a wood stock but the wood stock flexes a lot more than the EBR. All case sensitive.
is this said in principle ?,or have you built and tuned multiple EBRs .i get the impression you are not speaking from experience.

i have only set up three(i need to stop saying "tuned" as its misleading) an alcs, an alcscv, and a the mod 2.



maybe EBRbuilder can chime in you might remember him from the thread where you were unable to mount a dcsb. he has built hundreds.


to the OP:
Please Correct me EBR builder if i am wrong: I seem to recall him saying he set up the rifle as per the sage instructions (i.e. NOT touching).

this is how i have learned they need to be set from my mere three chassis.
i know lord of war has handled perhaps in the dozens he is your number two go to guy. again correct me LoW if im wrong but he also sets them up not touching.

Ebr builder 's name is literal he built hundreds of these rifles for our troops, and i reccomend you listen to him.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, I know of EBR builder, I actually started this thread in the hopes that he chime in. I'll take it to the range again today and see what happens.
 

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I built my own EBR from a SAGE chassis and SAI Loaded rifle. As I recall the directions with the SAGE installation manual was to turn down the screw until you can feel the screw barely touching the barrel but not deflecting the barrel. I am getting very good accuracy with my EBR.

I also used the Mil Spec Supplement to the SAGE EBR to install the chassis on my rifle: M14 ENHANCED BATTLE RIFLE (EBR), 7.62MM SUPPLEMENT TO TM 9-1005-223-10 1 December 2008

It says:

"Next comes one of the two most important steps to properly set up the M14 EBR-R1 and insure it will meet the accuracy goals of one MOA or less.

Using a 5/64 inch allen, loosen up the locking screw on the right front of the stock.

CAUTION
Moving this screw too far can seriously affect the accuracy of this weapon. It should just come in contact with the barrel but not enough to move the barrel itself.

Using a 3mm allen, move the barrel control screw down until it just comes in contact with the barrel.

When contact is made, lock the screw in position with the 5/64" locking screw on the right side of the stock. The purpose of the screw is to control barrel whip during firing and is one of the things that enhances the accuracy of this system. If this step is not done correctly, the weapon will not achieve its maximum accuracy potential."
 

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is this said in principle ?,or have you built and tuned multiple EBRs .i get the impression you are not speaking from experience.

i have only set up three(i need to stop saying "tuned" as its misleading) an alcs, an alcscv, and a the mod 2.



maybe EBRbuilder can chime in you might remember him from the thread where you were unable to mount a dcsb. he has built hundreds.


to the OP:
Please Correct me EBR builder if i am wrong: I seem to recall him saying he set up the rifle as per the sage instructions (i.e. NOT touching).

this is how i have learned they need to be set from my mere three chassis.
i know lord of war has handled perhaps in the dozens he is your number two go to guy. again correct me LoW if im wrong but he also sets them up not touching.

Ebr builder 's name is literal he built hundreds of these rifles for our troops, and i reccomend you listen to him.
Do you disagree with my advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I tried again today and just could not get it to shoot as well as it did with the Choate folding stock. I tried:

Minimal contact
Minimal contact, then backing off 1/4 turn
Cardboard able to go freely between barrel and screw

I made sure everything was torqued to spec so this was really the only variable. It was shooting 1" groups at 50 yards using DAG before. Now it's closer 1.5-2.0
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I called them and they said just in contact. I wish it were 1.5 MOA, however 1.5" at 50 yards is 3 MOA. Using the choate folder, it was shooting 2 MOA consistently with DAG.
 

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Ok guys first of all lets not all the barrel whip screw a tensioner that's not its purpose, the only tensioner is on the JAE chassis two very different chassis so there is no touch and feel type of effect, there should be NO contact with the barrel at all. the whip screw should be screwed down until contact is made with the barrel and then turned back a quarter to a half turn, a simple rule is that a business card can be slipped in between and be tight, To insure increased accuracy in and proper function there are some simple things that can be done, proper op rod block alignment and though not required I always install the roll pin, second I use medium strength loctight or such to secure the chassis to the op rod block (3 screws), second I use a SEI EBR shim kit to properly time the gas cylinder rather than use a crush washer that will lose its original tolerance once its tight, if the heel does not seat flush with the chassis a few gentle whacks with a rubber mallet will help, though there are certain receivers that will maintain a gap if they are not in spec, ensure the trigger groups locks in tight by hand, the top rail should go on smooth with no obstructions and should sit level before its screwed down to proper torque provided by sage, once the rifle is fired for the first time, all screws should reevaluated to proper torque poundage, these are very simple ways I have had success in gaining good accuracy, please excuse punctuation Im using my phone to type this
 

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Discussion Starter #17
User error

So I went to look at the rifle after the range today and discovered the op rod block screws were completely loose. I had torqued them to 25 in/lb but did not used thread locker because I knew I would be taking it apart in the near future. I am just going to wait till all my parts get in and then thread lock everything in place.
 

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Shimming the gas system corrected my system. When I moved the rifle (also a loaded) from the factory stock to the EBR the gas cylinder would move slightly past 6:00. Accuracy really opened up, shimming corrected it.

My screws also shot loose, but didn't noticeably affect accuracy during that trip. I'll be adding loctite.

Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk
 

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in my effort to give a comprehensive response i have not been able to find the so call tensioner screw (barrel whip screw) in the instructions.

can someone point it out. otherwise im calling tammy tommorow.

http://www.sageinternationalltd.com/SIL/specs/EBR_Installation_Instructions.pdf


1.5 moa with dag is great
I notice you have a more recent issue of the intallation manual, dated 6/2013. Everytime SAGE updates the manual something gets screwed up. Unless they changed the design of the chassis, the section on the barrel whip screw adjustment is missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So this thing is still not shooting. 2-3" at 50 yards. I'm thinking the change in harmonics with the EBR chassis is not agreeing with DAG. I will try it with Radway green next range trip. I prefer not to put match ammo through it as this is not intended to be a match rifle. Shame since I was getting great accuracy with DAG in the choate folder before.
 
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