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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

Newbie with a question.

I just put my op rod on my receiver and put everything together.

The op rod feels like it doesn't slide smoothly and when the bolt stop releases the op rod and slams it forward, the op rod takes a little tap with a dead blow to unstick it so I can pull it back. I used an Arkansas stone on the op rod tab. Did I just not take enough off the back or should I stone some place else?

Your help is appreciated!
 

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I used an Arkansas stone on the op rod tab.
Man oh man, I had a struggle with this myself. Everyone said "DONT TOUCH THE TAB!" My problem turned out to be the rod itself was bent slightly. I was told to have a gunsmith fit it to the rifle but that wasnt an option for me. $$$

I read about how some guys straightened some motorcycle pipes by filling them with water and freezing them. So I gave it a try! 5 or 6 sessions into it and it worked fine. No more binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Man oh man, I had a struggle with this myself. Everyone said "DONT TOUCH THE TAB!" My problem turned out to be the rod itself was bent slightly. I was told to have a gunsmith fit it to the rifle but that wasnt an option for me. $$$

I read about how some guys straightened some motorcycle pipes by filling them with water and freezing them. So I gave it a try! 5 or 6 sessions into it and it worked fine. No more binding.
How did you realize the rod was bent? I had to remove some meat from the tab, it was too fat to fit in the groove.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
when the op rod is on, should it naturally rest strait under the barrel or off to one side. Why is it only binding when in battery?
 

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The bend was inperceptable to the naked eye. I had two oprods side by side and could NOT tell a difference. I thought I had an out of spec channel also but that was not the case. The tab just wouldnt fall into the slot. I took the oprod guide off and LIKE MAGIC it would fall in the slot and slide just fine. You got the right idea by looking at how it is off to one side or the other. That will tell you which was it is bent. You may only have to do very minor straightening. If its a used oprod, like mine was, the actual hollow area had a curve in it. If you can take off the oprod guide, you can put the oprod in and slide it all the way foward. Then put the oprod guide back on OVER the oprod. Then you can cycle the oprode slowly and see exactly where its binding. My oprod guide was actually rolling to one side and back as I cycled the oprod.

I couldnt figure out how to straighten a hollow space which is how I found the freezing idea.

check this vid out too [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8JcgLh4PI4[/ame]
 

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Block screw

I've had to install a washer in the bottom op rod block screw to keep the screw from binding on the op rod. There is a very fine line here. Does it bind when it is out of the chassis?

If not, it may be one of the op rod block screws. Also, if the op rod block is not properly aligned, it can cause binding of the barrel and op rod.




Hello everyone,

Newbie with a question.

I just put my op rod on my receiver and put everything together.

The op rod feels like it doesn't slide smoothly and when the bolt stop releases the op rod and slams it forward, the op rod takes a little tap with a dead blow to unstick it so I can pull it back. I used an Arkansas stone on the op rod tab. Did I just not take enough off the back or should I stone some place else?

Your help is appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've had to install a washer in the bottom op rod block screw to keep the screw from binding on the op rod. There is a very fine line here. Does it bind when it is out of the chassis?

If not, it may be one of the op rod block screws. Also, if the op rod block is not properly aligned, it can cause binding of the barrel and op rod.
This is going to sound dense of me but how can the op rod block not be aligned if the red dot is forward and in the stock? Man I feel like I'm missing something.

Mike at Windy City has agreed to swap the rod out for me. I just hope the problem really was the rod and not me. People say don't' t touch the tab but what are you supposed to do? I don't want to beat it with a hammer.
 

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Not sure my issue is relevant to your situation but I had a similar problem where I thought my channel was not straight. After installing my Sage op rod guide onto the new barreled action and placing it into the chassis for a tilt test, it would not pass. Played around for a while because I did not want to open my channel nor whittle on the tab.

Turns out the Sage guide opening is a bit smaller than a standard guide and my op rod had a slight egged shape right in the middle that would bind. You could pull it thru but it would not freely slide. Measured twice, marked and whalloped a few times with a boss rubber mallet on a wood block. Made it concentric all the way down which fixed the bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure my issue is relevant to your situation but I had a similar problem where I thought my channel was not straight. After installing my Sage op rod guide onto the new barreled action and placing it into the chassis for a tilt test, it would not pass. Played around for a while because I did not want to open my channel nor whittle on the tab.

Turns out the Sage guide opening is a bit smaller than a standard guide and my op rod had a slight egged shape right in the middle that would bind. You could pull it thru but it would not freely slide. Measured twice, marked and whalloped a few times with a boss rubber mallet on a wood block. Made it concentric all the way down which fixed the bind.
This leads me to a few questions I've had. Most of you will roll your eyes but I did say I was a newbie!

Can you describe what exactly the tilt test is and how I perform it?

Secondly, my receiver has a little ridge near the top. How do I put the tab in without stoning it? I was under the impression I was supposed to stone or file it instead of beating it in with a hammer. If someone would be kind enough to give me a quick primer on how to properly install the op rod that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again everybody for all your help.
 

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Has this rifle ever been assembled in a REGULAR STOCK - or is this a BRAND NEW BUILD?


Forum Member TonyBen's Tilt Test - you should watch ALL his M14 cleaning, assembly vids - as these will show you how to correctly assemble your rifle.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8JcgLh4PI4[/ame]

If this rifle was WORKING PREVIOUSLY IN ANOTHER STOCK - then chances are nothing is wrong with THE ACTION (or parts) and the issue is with your ASSEMBLY.

Not to be mean here - BUT - M14's are NOT AR-15's. They take a little "savvy and finesse" to put together correctly. Once you've done it a few times (successfully) you can do it with your eyes closed (just like every other firearm).

WATCH ALL THE TONYBEN VIDEO'S - they gave me a great "leg up" in learning the platform when I first started playing with these.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Has this rifle ever been assembled in a REGULAR STOCK - or is this a BRAND NEW BUILD?


Forum Member TonyBen's Tilt Test - you should watch ALL his M14 cleaning, assembly vids - as these will show you how to correctly assemble your rifle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8JcgLh4PI4

If this rifle was WORKING PREVIOUSLY IN ANOTHER STOCK - then chances are nothing is wrong with THE ACTION (or parts) and the issue is with your ASSEMBLY.

Not to be mean here - BUT - M14's are NOT AR-15's. They take a little "savvy and finesse" to put together correctly. Once you've done it a few times (successfully) you can do it with your eyes closed (just like every other firearm).

WATCH ALL THE TONYBEN VIDEO'S - they gave me a great "leg up" in learning the platform when I first started playing with these.

Rick
This is a brand new build. new barreled action (Fulton receiver/bolt and Criterion barrel) assembled by Warbird, and with the exception of the OP Rod (surplus TRW), sights (Surplus TRW), and trigger group (Surplus TRW) all other parts are either either smith, or sadlak.

I know it's not an AR15. I would never take a stone to an AR. I appreciate the videos.
 

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This is a brand new build. new barreled action (Fulton receiver/bolt and Criterion barrel) assembled by Warbird, and with the exception of the OP Rod (surplus TRW), sights (Surplus TRW), and trigger group (Surplus TRW) all other parts are either either smith, or sadlak.

I know it's not an AR15. I would never take a stone to an AR. I appreciate the videos.
So you may in fact - be looking at a part that's out of spec. Being that it wasn't a "demonstrably working action" prior to doing the Sage install.

One thing I've seen on the Sages I've done, is a "slightly misaligned" OpRodGuide block, will cause the OpRod to bind in it's travel.

At this point - wait for your replacement OpRod to come in - and see how that works out.

Did Warbird install the Sage OpRod Guide block - or did you?

Yes - the "red dot" is supposed to face forward towards the muzzle.

Is the OpRod Guide block 'pinned in" or press fit onto the barrel?

Watch up on the vids - so you see how this action goes together. Some stuff requires a little "elbow grease" - but nothing in the "final assembly" should to be FORCED.

OpRods can be a little "peckish" going on & off (especially with new parts), but it's just a matter if getting the hang of the "angles" used.

I had similar frustrations on my Ruger Mini's when I first started working on them - lots of cursing, etc. Mastering those guns (with the similarities in the actions), made learning how to work on the M14 platform a lot easier.

First one's always the hardest. It gets easier, the more you do it...

Rick
 

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Try backing the bottom oprod guide screw out one turn and see it that helps. Sage had a batch of screws that were slightly out of spec and would cause the oprod to bind.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So you may in fact - be looking at a part that's out of spec. Being that it wasn't a "demonstrably working action" prior to doing the Sage install.

One thing I've seen on the Sages I've done, is a "slightly misaligned" OpRodGuide block, will cause the OpRod to bind in it's travel.

At this point - wait for your replacement OpRod to come in - and see how that works out.

Did Warbird install the Sage OpRod Guide block - or did you?

Yes - the "red dot" is supposed to face forward towards the muzzle.

Is the OpRod Guide block 'pinned in" or press fit onto the barrel?

Watch up on the vids - so you see how this action goes together. Some stuff requires a little "elbow grease" - but nothing in the "final assembly" should to be FORCED.

OpRods can be a little "peckish" going on & off (especially with new parts), but it's just a matter if getting the hang of the "angles" used.

I had similar frustrations on my Ruger Mini's when I first started working on them - lots of cursing, etc. Mastering those guns (with the similarities in the actions), made learning how to work on the M14 platform a lot easier.

First one's always the hardest. It gets easier, the more you do it...

Rick
I installed the block. it just fit over the barrel by hand. the screws tightened it down but I didn't screw them tight until the action was seated in the stock.

Is the OpRod Guide block 'pinned in" or press fit onto the barrel? It's press fit.

One thing I've seen on the Sages I've done, is a "slightly misaligned" OpRodGuide block, will cause the OpRod to bind in it's travel. What's the solution for this?

Thanks' for the encouragement. I'm excited about this project and was board with AR's. I just hope I don't fubar it. WindyCity is swaping it out but like I said in previous posts, I'm not beyond thinking it was me and not the rod. It seemed to go on OK after a little stoning. I will for sure watch the videos.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm wishing I'd just bought a new Fulton or LRB Op rod. At least I could rule out wear and tear as it would have been new.
 

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If the op rod guide block is off just a little it can bind up. How did the tip of the op rod look on the tail of the piston?
 

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Depends on how "hard" the press fit is - the Op Rod should move freely through the guide (no spring installed) with both the spring guide IN AND OUT.

In my case - I had a heavy barrel that I had to "relieve" with a flat file (while turing in a lathe) so the guide block would fit.

While I thought it was a "snug fit" and aligned correctly - it wasn't - and moved out of alignment, causing the Op Rod to bind.

Usually - if the OpRod block isn't pinned (and not super-tight) - torquing it (and the action) into the Sage, will straighten it out. Tapping with a plastic mallet will seat everything straight.

In my case - since the block wasn't pinned, and was "somewhat loose" - I installed the action (without a spring) into the chassis - made sure it "tilt tested" okay - and "injected" red loctite between the barrel and guide block - and let it "set up" overnight.

There were some "reported instances" of the bottom screw for the guide block being too long and interfering with the Op Rod - but you can install the action INTO the stock - without the OP Rod installed - torque the screw in, and check to make sure it doesn't protrude into the path of the Op Rod. If it does - this can be resolved with a shorter screw - or a washer between the screw and chassis.

If this was the case though - the action would work fine (tilt test) out of the stock - but not IN THE STOCK.

Rick
 
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