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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had not fired my Springfield Armory M1A in years but it was storaged in a safe and well preserved and cleaned before being storaged. It functioned fine before.

I took it to the range and tried firing some Federal Match 168 grain loads and some older West German loads and both failed to cycle the action to the point that it would *not* pick up the next round or lock the bolt back after the last round. It did it with 3 different magazines. It did not do it every time, but about 90% of the time. The bolt goes back but does not lock back or go back enough to strip the next round. I tried loosening and tightening the gas piston nut, but that had no effect.

Anyone have any ideas?

thanks

vfortytwoATyahoo.com
 

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I second what Thomjb wrote! When stored for a long time, the barrel will 'sweat' some of the oil or whatever was used to clean it and this can make its way into the gas port and solidify resulting in a clogged gas port hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, guys.

Other than running a few patches through the barrel, the gun was not cleaned before shooting.

It was cleaned after shooting and I ran a pipe cleaner through the gas port which went though without a problem, so I cannot imagine it being blocked.

vfortytwoATyahoo.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it turned out the OP Rod was not bent according to Springfield Armory. What is really frightening is that two different gunsmiths claimed that it was and one was going to install a new one!

A few days ago I got my M1A back from Springfield Armory with a note explaining that it wasn't a bent op rod but the gas cylinder was not aligned with the barrel gas port.

I just got an authentic Herstal FN 50.63 para and the M1A is going on the block.

The M1A is a preban standard grade with a bayonet lug, but more importantly with a TRW bolt and a Winchester Barrel.

vfortytwoATyahoo.com
 

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Strip the rifle down and give it a thorough cleaning, including Gas cylinder & piston. See if the op rod binds without the op rod spring installed. Make sure op rod is locking the bolt fully before trying to fire it again. It sounds like you made up your mind on selling it. If so put it in the steals & deals section either as is, or fix it first. Someone will snap it up if you don't want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
An update:

I took it to two different gunsmiths who claimed that the oprod was bent, I sent it back to Springfield and they claimed that it wasn't but that the gas cylinder was not aligned with the barrel gas port.

Attached are picture of the letter from Springfield and a scans of the M1A (what a pain to put on the scanner).

vfortytwoATyahoo.com

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Looks like the op rod is hitting piston tail off center which is not that uncommon and is an easy fix. It should still function properly but accuracy will suffer some. From the scan it looks to be hitting to the side of center. Vertical wise it should center with piston tail. Plenty of advise here on how to re-align & tighten up op rod guide. Drop me a PM or Email if you want to try it yourself. Many others on this board will probably have better illustration skills than me, but I can give you a step by step if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sorry about the oversized pictures. Will not happen again.

I sent the gun back to Springfield once with a letter voicing my suspicions about the op rod being bent.

They sent it back to me with the letter attached above.

My thoughts are that even if the op rod was out of alignment, Springfield should have fixed it. I will send it back to them again as I do not feel comfortable trying to bend anything on my own and I do not have a gunsmith's setup with a bench and such.

vfortytwoATyahoo.com
 

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Step by step for centering and tightening op rod guide. Field strip rifle and remove op rod & spring. Use a roll pin punch or proper size flat tip punch and tap out roll pin. Remove op rod guide. Most will wiggle lose with finger pressure, some will slide off by gravity. Depending on how lose the guide was will determine the amount of metal you want to raise in the next step. You can buy a knurling tool or just use a center punch & LIGHT hammer. We just want to make some dimples to raise metal here. I make a row of 3 dimples from breech end to bore end staring at the bottom of the barrel with a 2x4 block of wood under the barrel for support. Depending on how lose your guide was make these rows every 1/8"-1/4" around the barrel until you get back to the starting point. Keep that wood block under the barrel for support. Put your guide back on the barrel; you will not be able to press it on by hand any longer. Even though the dimples were very small & did not seem to be doing much, you made several of them and each one raised metal. Time for the light hammer again and block of wood unless you make your own tool like the one illustrated in Duff's book. Go slow and even trying to keep it centered as you gently tap it back on. Once it is about half way on insert the op rod to see how it is lining up with piston tail. If off center a little, correct the misalignment and continue to tap guide on as evenly as you can. Check alignment with piston tail as you go. When you get it tapped back to where the roll pin lines up and everything is dead center (op rod centers with piston tail ) just re-install the roll pin. Your good to go; that sucker is a bang fit and will not move from normal use. This is a good time to tighten your gas assembly, shim the assembly and tighten your F.S. . This info is probably already in the troubleshooting section. if not I will add it later. This information is from what I have read in Poyer's Book, some of Duff's book and learned from armorers tapes and courses. I am not a professional; I just enjoy shooting and working on the M14 rifle.
 

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The op rod on my recently acquired Scout was hitting off center like the pictures of yours. I was having failure to feeds and failure to ejects. I put in a GI op spring and realligned the op rod with the gas cylinder. Now everything works fine. Hope this helps.

Later, Jeff B.
 
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