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In the gilded halls of Valhala
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im more interested if it feels good or like you just pit a big sticker on your stock

color me extremely skeptical.
 

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I have Gunskins ATACS FG over a USGI stock. Surface prep was sand, primer/filler, sand more, thin base coat, cure for a few days, then apply camo wrap. For me, cause I'm from South Carolina and I lack any skill, it was a pita to apply. You really only have one or maybe two chances to get it right. Trying to reposition after applying heat to stretch the material is no go. Also, any fine detail on the parts under the skin will be lost. All that said, I think its a good stock covering for a field piece, it WILL get tore up with use in the bush, but when it starts to look like CENSOREDGI, just remove the old skin and replace it with a new Gunskin, gives you the ability to try all their patterns over time...LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All that said, I think its a good stock covering for a field piece, it WILL get tore up with use in the bush, but when it starts to look like CENSOREDGI, just remove the old skin and replace it with a new Gunskin, gives you the ability to try all their patterns over time...LOL.
Your rifle and camo looks awesome. Makes me hopeful.

Just to clarify, did yours actually tear in the brush? I've read a couple of reviews of people who "field tested" it and they gave positive reviews. However, I don't know if their version of field testing means playing a game of airsoft or actually going in the field for a few days.

Either way, the odds of my rifle ending up in the woods here in NM are slim to none. Just dirt and rocks here.
 

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Fellers, I used the standard rifle template on Lulu. Used it all up too, cause I messed up on covering the slotted handguard three times, finally gave up. Got too many wrinkles trying to follow all the channels and slots in the guard.
BTW, edges are supposed to be overlapped....I think.
Have not scarred it up too bad yet, but the hog hunt is coming up soon, that will be the real test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Well, everything came in the mail today EXCEPT the degreaser I ordered. Being the impatient person I am, I decided to use dish soap (it said 3x as powerful on grease than other brands DI2 ) on the handguard and give it a go.

First obstacle I ran into was getting the skin centered on the handguard. If you didn't center it near perfect then you would get huge wrinkles when trying to press it across. So, my fix for that was to flip the skin upside down and lay the handguard on top of it.

Once I centered it that way, I flipped it back over and began to press down and out on the skin. Every now and then I'd use a hair dryer to heat the material and press it into the grooves. After a few minutes I noticed several wrinkles that I was unhappy with. Well, good thing about this stuff is you CAN peel it off and reapply it. I didn't peel off the entire skin, just about two inches. I pressed and stretched the skin to get rid of the wrinkles.

I finished the top and flipped over to see the bottom of the handguard. My plan was to fold the skin underneath, and eventually apply more skin to secure it. I had to make a few cuts, especially at the ends where the handguard is round. It is ugly, but no one has to see under here anyways. GI2

Well, as of right now I don't think I'll need to secure the skin by adding more underneath it. It is pretty secure as is. The stock is going to be MUCH harder since I won't be able to hide all of my ugly cuts. I am glad I actually finished the handguard, though. BigKahuna had me worried! It looks better than I thought. I may even redo it if I have some material leftover. There is a little bit of air in some of the grooves, but only I would notice it.

The only thing left to do is heat treat it for a final time. My wife cut the blowdrying short because it was waking up the kids RNGR4









The end portion will be the only part that has wrinkles, but they'll be hidden anyways. For future reference, if I choose to redo the handguard I know how to do it without wrinkles, but for now I'm going to leave that piece as it.

Also, I used the barrel portion of skin provided for the handguard because I won't be applying any skin to the barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Things learned so far:

1) GunSkin can be peeled off easily and reapplied
2) GunSkin can stick to itself (adhesive side to adhesive side) and be pulled apart without any problems
3) GunSkin can be stretched tight and pressed down to remove wrinkles on round edges
4) Patience is needed/highly recommended (however people like myself still have a chance)

and 5) My dish soap is a pretty good degreaser RNGR2
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alright gentlemen, this is the semi final result. Review after pictures.





Looks pretty good right? Well, the camouflage is camouflaging the bad camouflage job.

Here are some up close shots.









Ok. So that's that. There are a few areas I need to apply patches on(not pictured), but I'll explain why later.

This wasn't easy. Just to give you a mental image, try taking a square sticker and completely covering a baseball without any fold or wrinkles. It's for lack of a better word, impossible. So this project depends on patience and know how. Do you know how to cut the right angles so that it lays a certain way? I sure didn't. And I've never been known for patience either.

To bridge this gap between know how and patience, I improvised. Some places, like the circular, bottom part of the grip, I just cut out all together. My plan is to cut a circular patch for it. Other places where the stock curves I cut multiple straight lines to fold the material in different directions.
Overall, applying the skin was a PITA.

But wait, there's more. I ran into a couple of problems during reassembly. Wherever parts need to connect or slide into, there can be no skin. That means I have to remove the skin from front of the handguard and all skin that folds over into the interior of the stock. Even after I thought I was good to go, I discovered my magazines won't go in due to a little bit of skin that folded into the mag well.

In closing, it's camouflage from a distance. Up close it's a product of the customer's skill. I would be willing to try this product one more time, except I would pre cut and apply pieces for problematic areas first. Then I would trim the kit for a closer fit and apply it on top of the preset patches. If you're like me, with little patience or know how, it's probably best to pay an extra $50 for a dip job.
 

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Looks bad**ss to me. You don't notice the wrinkles unless you are looking closely anyway. I bet you would have an easier time of it a second time around, now that you've learned the trouble spots. When you peel back the skin, does it leave any adhesive residue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Looks bad**ss to me. You don't notice the wrinkles unless you are looking closely anyway. I bet you would have an easier time of it a second time around, now that you've learned the trouble spots. When you peel back the skin, does it leave any adhesive residue?
Nope. After watching a video review of someone doing it, he claims if you heat the material a lot you can form it around without wrinkles. I just don't see how that's possible though.
 

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Nope. After watching a video review of someone doing it, he claims if you heat the material a lot you can form it around without wrinkles. I just don't see how that's possible though.
Yes you can!....form it around complex curves using a hair drier on high and stretching it while very slowly pushing out the wrinkles and creases. However, that will also greatly increase the chance or tearing it.
I also had problems around the bottom of the pistol grip and a few other places. Ended up patching those areas.
49SFS06, I really thought you had it in the bag with the fine job you did on the hand guard but looks like you ran out of patience on the stock.
As far as hydro-dipping, thats a whole 'nother can of worms, much harder to do at home but will give a more proffesional finished product once you nail down the technique.
I will try to post some close ups of Lulu in the ATACS Gunskins later so ya'll can see my screw ups in detail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Final look with all of the metal reinstalled and patches.




It LOOKS good, but I'd start sweating if someone came up to me at the range and asked to hold it.

One final piece of advice: don't leave gun skin anywhere the rifle has to contact the stock. It'll cause problems with fit and magazine insertion.
 
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