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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is more of a general question, but I don't know where to put it.

When I give a firearm a thorough bath (a new one or a filthy one) to the point that everything is stripped, I immediately apply a light coat of oil and work it in to stop rust.

I oil the entire receiver, including places which call for grease. My concern is, even though the amount of oil is very light, it could interfere with the grease's ability to stay put.

Anyone have thoughts, especially chemists/chemical engineers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What creates the lubricity of grease is just oil. It's just oil mixed with a thickener. The thickener will absorb the underlying oil, eventually.

Although, if the oil coat is really thick, yes, the grease will slide off.

If you apply the grease where it is supposed to go then work the action a few times to spread the grease around, you'll be okay. (Then you can wipe off the excess grease and not have a dirt magnet, that will eventually become a grinding compound.)
Thanks... good point. The underlying assumption always has to be the oil and grease are compatible.Even better if the grease is the exact same oil with thickener.

I don't remember where I learned the trick, but I have been using small brushes to apply grease for years. I seldom have any excess to wipe up.

Depending on what kind and how many you buy, "acid" brushes run from 10¢ to 30¢ each, and last a long time.


https://www.amazon.com/Acid-Brush144-Peachtree-Woodworking-PW1182/dp/B000H5AIAK

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...e-snakes/acid-brushes/acid-brush-prod374.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Look, guys, Grease is simply a metallic soap that contains oil.
Metallic soaps cling to metal. The oil contained does the lubrication.
A surface film of oil will not stop the metallic soap from absorbing it,
nor will it prevent the grease from clinging to the metal.
Anyone know if Mobil 1 grease is simply thickened Mobil 1 oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've actually experimented with using JUST Ballistol on my M1 and the SAI "Loaded" I used to own. It was a short-lived experiment though, because the results were sub par to say the least. Grease substantially smooths out Mr. Garand's designs, especially on the recoil spring and operating rod surfaces. Oil alone is too thin to get the system running smoothly enough. Oil is best for "seasoning" all the metal for rust prevention. Grease is needed on the major interfaces, although I don't use grease on the trigger assemblies...just a soaking with Ballistol.
There is a short writeup about when to use oil and when to use grease. I'll dig it up if you want. It pretty much reflects what you have mentioned. You can put oil where grease is supposed to go, and It will work just fine. AT least until it spreads out or is mechanically knocked off.

A short nutshell of the write up is when to use oil & when to use grease. Other than a general coat for rust protection, oil is good for lubrication in enclosed assemblies. I guess the mainspring in a 1911 would be an example.

My first semi-auto was a Mini-14. I saw that the top of the rear of the bolt's bluing was worn off, so I showed it to the LGS where I bought it. He sold me a bottle of FP-10 oil.

When I learned what I know now about grease:
DISHOUT


The FP-10 does have a nice cinnamon sent, though.
 
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