Grease on top of oil OK?

1496 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by Burnt Nitrates, Sep 2, 2017

RichFool

Discussion Starter · Aug 30, 2017

This is more of a general question, but I don't know where to put it.

When I give a firearm a thorough bath (a new one or a filthy one) to the point that everything is stripped, I immediately apply a light coat of oil and work it in to stop rust.

I oil the entire receiver, including places which call for grease. My concern is, even though the amount of oil is very light, it could interfere with the grease's ability to stay put.

Anyone have thoughts, especially chemists/chemical engineers?

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Capona

· #2 · Aug 30, 2017

I would have thought heavy first ( grease), lighter on top (oil).

But it's an interesting questions. With the newer technologies like slip 2000, they claim their lube will penetrate their grease.

Since they make this claim, my assumption of older traditional lubes would be that they don't transverse.

Thedutchman

· #3 · Aug 30, 2017

Like you said, apply the oil lightly and THEN wipe up the excess oil. Grease on top of that will stay put just fine.
I don't think it hurts the M14 at all.
Applied to heavy machinery in that order, it probably isn't a good idea.
I wouldn't worry about a little oil being under a bit of grease.

conditionone

· #4 · Aug 30, 2017

Seems to me that any amount of oil would thin the grease. Maybe not to the point of failing it's job, but I still think it would thin it.

Reactions: 3

USN14

· #5 · Aug 30, 2017

I do a good cleaning and degreasing then grease required spots then oil everything else that calls for oil then a quick, thin pass with CLP over all metal before putting back in the safe.
My thoughts are, grease sticks better to untreated metal then pre oiled metal.

Reactions: 1

lysander

· #6 · Aug 30, 2017

RichFool said:
This is more of a general question, but I don't know where to put it.

When I give a firearm a thorough bath (a new one or a filthy one) to the point that everything is stripped, I immediately apply a light coat of oil and work it in to stop rust.

I oil the entire receiver, including places which call for grease. My concern is, even though the amount of oil is very light, it could interfere with the grease's ability to stay put.

Anyone have thoughts, especially chemists/chemical engineers?

What creates the lubricity of grease is just oil. It's just oil mixed with a thickener. The thickener will absorb the underlying oil, eventually.

Although, if the oil coat is really thick, yes, the grease will slide off.

If you apply the grease where it is supposed to go then work the action a few times to spread the grease around, you'll be okay. (Then you can wipe off the excess grease and not have a dirt magnet, that will eventually become a grinding compound.)

Reactions: 5

drewwilkie86

· #7 · Aug 30, 2017

I do the same exact thing. I oil the entire gun (Ballistol), then wipe off the grease points and grease them with SuperLube. Keeps the rust away, and keeps the rifle lubed properly. Best of both worlds.

MitchAlsup

· #8 · Aug 30, 2017

Look, guys, Grease is simply a metallic soap that contains oil.
Metallic soaps cling to metal. The oil contained does the lubrication.
A surface film of oil will not stop the metallic soap from absorbing it,
nor will it prevent the grease from clinging to the metal.

Reactions: 2

RichFool

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 30, 2017

lysander said:
What creates the lubricity of grease is just oil. It's just oil mixed with a thickener. The thickener will absorb the underlying oil, eventually.

Although, if the oil coat is really thick, yes, the grease will slide off.

If you apply the grease where it is supposed to go then work the action a few times to spread the grease around, you'll be okay. (Then you can wipe off the excess grease and not have a dirt magnet, that will eventually become a grinding compound.)

Thanks... good point. The underlying assumption always has to be the oil and grease are compatible.Even better if the grease is the exact same oil with thickener.

I don't remember where I learned the trick, but I have been using small brushes to apply grease for years. I seldom have any excess to wipe up.

Depending on what kind and how many you buy, "acid" brushes run from 10¢ to 30¢ each, and last a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/Acid-Brush144-Peachtree-Woodworking-PW1182/dp/B000H5AIAK

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...e-snakes/acid-brushes/acid-brush-prod374.aspx

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USN14

· #10 · Aug 30, 2017

I just use at Qtips for grease. Cheap, disposable, no problem to regulate the amount of grease and easy to bend the shaft for getting in tight spots, nooks and crannies.

Reactions: 2

RichFool

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 30, 2017

USN14 said:
I just use at Qtips for grease. Cheap, disposable, no problem to regulate the amount of grease and easy to bend the shaft for getting in tight spots, nooks and crannies.

Although I prefer brushes, I use qtips if a brush isn't handy. Qtips are also good for working oil into a tight spot.

Reactions: 2

RichFool

Discussion Starter · #12 · Aug 30, 2017

MitchAlsup said:
Look, guys, Grease is simply a metallic soap that contains oil.
Metallic soaps cling to metal. The oil contained does the lubrication.
A surface film of oil will not stop the metallic soap from absorbing it,
nor will it prevent the grease from clinging to the metal.

Anyone know if Mobil 1 grease is simply thickened Mobil 1 oil?

lysander

· #13 · Aug 31, 2017

RichFool said:
Anyone know if Mobil 1 grease is simply thickened Mobil 1 oil?

No, but it is a synthetic.

drewwilkie86

· #14 · Aug 31, 2017

I've actually experimented with using JUST Ballistol on my M1 and the SAI "Loaded" I used to own. It was a short-lived experiment though, because the results were sub par to say the least. Grease substantially smooths out Mr. Garand's designs, especially on the recoil spring and operating rod surfaces. Oil alone is too thin to get the system running smoothly enough. Oil is best for "seasoning" all the metal for rust prevention. Grease is needed on the major interfaces, although I don't use grease on the trigger assemblies...just a soaking with Ballistol.

M11293

· #15 · Aug 31, 2017

Chemist here. Your oil and grease will mix, as they are both hydrophobic. That said, grease is more dense than gun oil. Gravity works!

I have actually played around with this myself. The oil will thin your grease, but not to the point it will be an issue... unless you used a ton of oil relative to the amount of grease.

If you are worried about it, grease your gun like you do and let the oil/grease mix. Wipe it out, and reapply fresh grease.

Reactions: 1

sac troop

· #16 · Sep 1, 2017

I've developed the habit of wiping oil onto cleaned metal for what seems like forever now. I prefer an oil that has some properties of "ionized oil", the oil is naturally attracted to the metal and will displace moisture creating a barrier which is why I want it there. Nothing to really over think here, CLP, ballistol,sheath, break free, the list goes on and they do the job. If the oil is heavy enough to wipe off I do that leaving a film which is what I'm looking for. After that I apply my current favorite grease to the area's that are supposed to get greased, including the bolt roller. I know that some insist that since you can't find it in the manual why bother? Well every M-14 shooter I know who's gone "Distinguished" cleans and lubes their bolt roller, so that's good enough for me.

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RichFool

Discussion Starter · #17 · Sep 1, 2017

drewwilkie86 said:
I've actually experimented with using JUST Ballistol on my M1 and the SAI "Loaded" I used to own. It was a short-lived experiment though, because the results were sub par to say the least. Grease substantially smooths out Mr. Garand's designs, especially on the recoil spring and operating rod surfaces. Oil alone is too thin to get the system running smoothly enough. Oil is best for "seasoning" all the metal for rust prevention. Grease is needed on the major interfaces, although I don't use grease on the trigger assemblies...just a soaking with Ballistol.

There is a short writeup about when to use oil and when to use grease. I'll dig it up if you want. It pretty much reflects what you have mentioned. You can put oil where grease is supposed to go, and It will work just fine. AT least until it spreads out or is mechanically knocked off.

A short nutshell of the write up is when to use oil & when to use grease. Other than a general coat for rust protection, oil is good for lubrication in enclosed assemblies. I guess the mainspring in a 1911 would be an example.

My first semi-auto was a Mini-14. I saw that the top of the rear of the bolt's bluing was worn off, so I showed it to the LGS where I bought it. He sold me a bottle of FP-10 oil.

When I learned what I know now about grease:
DISHOUT

The FP-10 does have a nice cinnamon sent, though.

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Burnt Nitrates

· #18 · Sep 2, 2017

Ballistol & Lubriplate; I use the craft brushes and q-tips. For oil I use an ol' fashioned shaving brush.
Lube with grease (moderately heavy) and touch up some points with oil.
Wipe down after 1st shooting session.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

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