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Discussion Starter #1
This is a repeat suggestion regarding gas plugs being difficult to remove, this seems to be an ongoing problem for members. It almost has become necessary to write a disclaimer when offering suggestions, otherwise you risk being pecked to death by the Crows waiting to pounce, try contributing.

I am aware of the downside issues of doing the following procedure.

The next time you have your Gas Cylinder Lock off, don't attempt this with the Lock on the rifle, drill a small hole at the six o'clock position on the bottom of the Lock, center the hole if possible. This allows you to put a drop of Kroil, or some other agent, into the threaded area of the plug. This works well for shooters that store their rifles for periods of time between use. If you use Ball powders, which I have found to be troublesome in plug removal, add two drops.

If I sound a little Crankky, it was a long drive to Tucson and back from Kerrville. Art
 

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Good info Art.

Would a thin layer of decent quality grease on the gas plug threads as well as the flat portion behind them help reduce this situation? I personally do this and have never had a gas plug get stuck. I feel this goes with your drilling the hole idea since it's taking the precaution to keep this from happening.

On a side note, I've noticed these threads mostly pertain to new SA Inc. rifles where the gas plug has been tightened to Blue Spec. Rarely hear about it happening on any other rifles with the plug properly installed.

What was going on in Tucson?
 

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Thanks for the tip Art.

I personally like to use anti seize, as used on spark plugs.
 

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Shotgun choke tube lube works for me, Garands and M1A's. Plug stays down tight but comes out with no probs when you need it out.
 

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Thanks for the info Art. I too have found that the initial removing of the GP was the hardest. When cleaning the GC, every 4-500rds, I clean all the residue off the threads, and coat with Shooters Choice All Temp grease. Retighten per specs. Never had a problem after the initial disassembly. dozier
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Coating Plug Threads??

I don't like to put anything on the Threads because: Sometime back an informed Member mentioned adding substance to the threads adds torque. I may have this wrong. Can anyone recall this past information.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Going on in Tucson??

Good info Art.

Would a thin layer of decent quality grease on the gas plug threads as well as the flat portion behind them help reduce this situation? I personally do this and have never had a gas plug get stuck. I feel this goes with your drilling the hole idea since it's taking the precaution to keep this from happening.

On a side note, I've noticed these threads mostly pertain to new SA Inc. rifles where the gas plug has been tightened to Blue Spec. Rarely hear about it happening on any other rifles with the plug properly installed.

What was going on in Tucson?
First of all, The University of Arizona was getting their Butt kicked by USC, second, the University Retired my Football Jersey at halftime, Two thousand miles to have my vanity stroked. Art
 

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I don't like to put anything on the Threads because: Sometime back an informed Member mentioned adding substance to the threads adds torque. I may have this wrong. Can anyone recall this past information.
The above statement is true. For most commercial torque
applications, manufacturers will normally specify if the bolts/studs/connectors are to be torqued dry, or are to be torqued with a lubricant. I do grease my gas plug, and torque to a lower setting than the 10ft/lbs recommended. My plug/cylinder is marked, and I've never had it back out on me. It's got to be easier (less stretch) on the threads also. dozier
 

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On NM Marine Corps M14 rifles, we always put a light coat of grease on the threads and used 23 foot pounds of torque. Never had a problem with stuck plugs.
 

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I remember the no lube on threads due to the torque being higher than the torque wrench setting issue. Personally I torqued mine dry, marked it, then lubed the threads and installed it to the witness mark.

Good reason to go to Tucson.
 

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I remember the no lube on threads due to the torque being higher than the torque wrench setting issue. Personally I torqued mine dry, marked it, then lubed the threads and installed it to the witness mark.

Good reason to go to Tucson.

That'll work also. dozier
 

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Plug

good idea Art...I have been seeing a number of chicom and others with the very front of the gas piston siezed up and rusted from just sitting for years.

Also gas plugs that would bend a line, box wrench, before breaking loose.

I took to disassembling the op rod and spring, oiling around the D tail and let sit awhile, then grabbing the piston tail with needle nose pliers, pulling it back, as in forcible tilt test, and then squirt oil in the relief hole for the gas, in the bottom of the gas cylinder, and store barrel down overnight.

The oil will run into the bottom and the threads, with a little warming up by a rubber mallet to get the vibration around the plug. You must put enough oil in to fill the plug up completely and spill into the threads from overflow.

Long way around the block...wish I would of thought of the hole in the lock Idea !!......sounds like a winner to me....Art's new enterprising venture DI2
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Unfriendly gas plugs

It seems that most of the problems of frozen plugs results from other than UGSI gas plugs in USGI Gas cylinders or neglect.

The mixing of commercial parts from different manufacture's often results in spec issues, sometimes from parts of the same manufacture fail to pass muster.. The "Stuff" made of of Country is anyone's guess, It pays to buy USA in camp.

This post was offered to help those that have ongoing issues with their plugs. Most of the experienced M1A owners have overcome this issue, but I hope it helps someone.. art
 
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