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I've always heard good things about Fulton Armory's work, so I felt a unitized gas cylinder form them would be as good as could be found. Well, I was a bit surprised to say the least. From the manuals, I thought the proper technique was three small spots of weld on the inside of the the front band. (not visible when rifle assembled) It seems Fulton has a better idea. They put a 3/4" bead across the top and a 1/2" bead across the bottom and on the outside of the band. No doubt, so all those that see this rifle will know it has a unitized GC.....even if they are on the other side of the room! Now, I'm sure there is nothing wrong with this system and that it will work just fine but WTF, if I had wanted this kind of heavy duty work I could have had Bubba down at the trailer hitch factory slap a weld on there for me. Even with the 20% off Christmas sale, for the $100 this GC cost, I just expected a little more precision. Sorry, just had to vent. You tell me, am I being too critical?

Top bead is not even perfectly centered.
 

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If I remember correctly, that set up could not be used in a Service Rifle Match like say Camp Perry. I think it says something like there can't be any external mods? I know some of the Match shooters here can correct me if I'm wrong? When I bought my Springfield N.M. in G.I. stock, it came with a Fulton welded gas cylinder. When Smith Enterprise re-built the rifle Ron called and told me it was serviceable but done incorrectly. He welds on the inside where it won't show. I should have had a new one put on but I don't plan on shooting this one in competition.

Greg

P.S. I found it: Page 282 of Kuhnhausen's manual states, "exposed gas cylinder modifications violate NM guidelines".
 

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I have one that was done by a guy where he drilled and tapped and used flat head bolts countersunk into the band from the inside. Is this still permissable? Thanks, Mike
 

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IIRC, Duff's book shows it being done this way.

I've got one of the Fulton unitized gas cylinders done like this too. It works & I don't see it being a problem. If it bothers you then send it back.
 

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M1APREBAN said:
I have one that was done by a guy where he drilled and tapped and used flat head bolts countersunk into the band from the inside. Is this still permissable? Thanks, Mike
Mike,
I have three rifles done with screws. It's seems to be the most common way. Only advantage to welding I see is you can still cut off gas system if needed.

Greg
 

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Mike,

He describes how to unitize the gas cylinder via shimming, screws & welding. Gives you step by step instructions on all three methods.

JP
 

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wdigeorge said:
Interesting, I haven't seen one like that before. Mine are welded on the inside like you said. I wonder if they do their own work on these or do they job it out?
According to Walt, they contract with an aerospace company in California for the production of these. The first one that I got from Fulton Armory had small spot welds at 9:30, 12:00, 2:30 and 6:00 and had been refinished.



The first one looked great, but it wouldn't fit on my barrel, so I sent it back. The second one looked like the one Orygunner has. I refinished it with Gun Kote and it doesn't look nearly as ugly now. It does fit on my barrel and function flawlessly, regardless of being a bit ugly.

As for Service Rifle Rules, I don't think that it would be illegal, as the screwed and glued method is also visible from the exterior.

7.2.2 U.S. Rifle, Caliber 7.62mm, M14
The rifle must be a rifle that was issued by the U.S.
Armed Forces or a commercial rifle of the same
type and caliber. M14 rifles must be chambered for
the 7.62mm cartridge and comply with the following
specific requirements.
(1) Stock dimensions must be no more than 2
inches wide at a point immediately to the rear
of the front band, no more than 2.5 inches
wide at the front and rear of the receiver, and
have a continuous taper from receiver to front
band. The width at the receiver may be
carried through to the butt plate.
(2) To improve operation, the spindle valve may
be locked in the open position and the gas
cylinder plug may be altered by making an
axial hole in the center that is approximately
1/64" in diameter.
(3) The hinged butt plate may only be used in the
folded position.
(4) The M1 Garand butt plate may be used as a
substitute for the standard M14 hinged butt
plate.
(5) Removal of the bayonet lug is authorized on all
rifles manufactured after the effective date of
federal assault rifle legislation.
(6) The magazine capacity may not exceed 20
rounds. All M14 or similar commercial rifles
must be used with full-length 20 round capacity
magazines.
(7) The rifle must also comply with the stock
dimensions given in the table below.
(8) Vented barrel extensions with the same
external dimensions as the M14 flash
suppressor, but without the bayonet lug, may
be installed. A muzzle brake designed to
reduce recoil is not permitted.
 

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..

Hello All,
First off I have not any work done on my rifle anywhere but Tank's Rifle Shop http://www.tanksrifleshop.com/m14.htm AND it is my understanding that he was taught by the one of the best... Mitch Brookfield AND does some work for the S.E.A.L.'s M25's . He unitized mine with screws and it looks like he either heat treated my spindle valve or replaced it with a high carbon pin. I was a Tool and Die maker before I joined the Military and I have to say is ALL the work he has done on my rifle is VERY FINE. 8)


 

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Who all does this work with the screw version? What all is done and what is accomplished? Going rate on this done to a usgi one or sa one? I am hoping mine coming is a usgi onejust like i am hoping the trigger group is too,lol. Heres a pic. Looks usgi.
 

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Oryguner,

That looks like the one I sent back to Fulton for credit !!! 8O 8O 8O

Like you, I ordered one and it looked that bad, so back it went. Springfield Armory (who sells them to Brownells) has the type that is assembled with two screws and epoxy. I purchased one from Brownells. The retail cost is $114 but if you are a dealer or distributor the cost is $91. I also purshased a unitized gas cylinder from Smith Enterprises. They weld theirs on the inside so you don't see any weld at all. I think Smith charges about $75 to unitize it if you supply the parts.
 

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As I said earlier, I've got one from FA that looks just like the one Oryguner posted.

It works like a champ but the naked weld is a bit disconcerting, so I've decided to do something about it.

Gun Kote

I tried just refinishing the welded areas, but there is a huge difference in color between the sprayed area & the rest of the part so I'm refinishing the entire part. A couple more coats & it'll be ready to bake in the oven.

I think the Gun Kote finish will end up looking very much like the "Armory Kote" finish that SA applied to my preban M1A when they refinished it for me. I'll probably end up putting the NM cylinder on the M1A and moving the shimmed gas cylinder from the M1A to the Poly.

I'll post a few pics of the final result later on this evening.
 

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Who should I use for most reasonable high quality work done on this?
Is shimming it easiest to do? Some people here replace pston for NM piston. Where can i find them and what all does need to be done to stock usgi or SA one? I will get my Duff book in a couple days,trying to learn more until then.
 

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Ok, after Gun Kote:




The weld is still visible (obviously), but the finish looks nice & matches the Armory Kote finish the SA applied to the rifle very well. I'm satisfied ATM, we'll have to see how it holds up under use.
 

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Greg: I ordered a can from Brownell's. You can get it several other places (incl. directly from the mfg).

Yup, it turned out pretty well. We'll have to see how it wears now.
 
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