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Discussion Starter · #1 ·


It won't do this when firing (or at least hasn't yet), but if I pull the bolt back to chamber a round, and pull it back a little too far the bottom of the bolt hangs on the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep.
I just pulled it out of a box, removed the cosmoline, and fired it for the first time a few months ago (50 rds down the pipe). The action is 100% original as it sits.
 

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Very interesting. I have three M1As; a standard from 1980, a Loaded from 2002, and a SOCOM 16 from about 2006.

At any rate, the safety bridge is different on the 1980 model vs. the other two. The newer rifles have a slight angle ground in to the top of the safety bridge where your bolt is touching, the older rifle is flat across that section of the bridge but the bolt rides higher in relation to the top of the bridge.

I don't have any original blueprints for the M-14 (others do on this forum) but the small picture I found in Jerry Kuhnhausen's Service Rifles book seems to show no angle on that part of the bridge. So my guess is it's one of those design issues that have gotten messed up over the years and the manufacturer has mixed the dimensions up between drawings.

Does the bolt have rub marks due to contact with the bridge? If so then I would send it back to the manufacturer, if not then the bolt must change angle slightly as it moves forward causing it to miss the bridge.
 

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Was that pic taken with the safety engaged ? It will be lower because the hammer is depressed by the safety. Also, I would be very careful with carrying that rifle around to shoot, if it is just out of the cosmoline, and new and unaltered, it is not not 922R compliant and is illegal to possess as manufactured, here in the U.S. now. There is a sticky about what you need to do to bring it into compliance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was that pic taken with the safety engaged ? It will be lower because the hammer is depressed by the safety. Also, I would be very careful with carrying that rifle around to shoot, if it is just out of the cosmoline, and new and unaltered, it is not not 922R compliant and is illegal to possess as manufactured, here in the U.S. now. There is a sticky about what you need to do to bring it into compliance.
Yes, I believe the safety was engaged.

I have a pile of US parts. The last and only time it was at the range it was 100% as imported. As such it was compliant with 922R. It will have 10 or less before leaving the house again in the Spring. :)
 

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..... if it is just out of the cosmoline, and new and unaltered, it is not not 922R compliant and is illegal to possess as manufactured, here in the U.S. now. There is a sticky about what you need to do to bring it into compliance.
Not necessarily....New old stock rifles imported pre ban are fine and do not need to be altered. As importation of Polys stopped in September of 1994 (The Ban by the Man) I'll make a stab and say that all Chinese M14s rifle legally imported are Pre Ban.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong....
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
^
You are correct. It was imported before the ban, and was compliant with all laws at the time of import.

If I were to change anything on it, then I would be required to have 10 or less imported parts on it.

I have had to play this game with a few other rifles in my collection.
 

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Not necessarily....New old stock rifles imported pre ban are fine and do not need to be altered. As importation of Polys stopped in September of 1994 (The Ban by the Man) I'll make a stab and say that all Chinese M14s rifle legally imported are Pre Ban.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong....
Thats all fine and good until you get hauled in for it, it matters not that you are innocent these days, the cost alone to fight it and prove it, are hardly worth taking the risk of running into a LEO that had a fight with his wife the night before or is hungover and ill willed, or both. Ask me how I know this.
 

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I may be in the minority on the board but as far as I am concerned, Chinese = unsafe to fire period!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^
It head spaces fine with NATO gauges.

Thats all fine and good until you get hauled in for it, it matters not that you are innocent these days, the cost alone to fight it and prove it, are hardly worth taking the risk of running into a LEO that had a fight with his wife the night before or is hungover and ill willed, or both. Ask me how I know this.
Good thing I have a badge ;)

On topic,
Is there something other than the hammer being held by the safety I should be looking at when I put it back on the bench?
 

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You might look in the spline raceway for the trigger group and see if some trash has gotten in there. Is the TG lock-up tight ?
The distance between the top of the hammer and the bottom of the stock might too fat and cause the TG to lock-up too tight, which would lower the hammer and the bolt, weak or broken hammer spring, out of spec receiver in the bridge area is suspect primarily. Also maybe the clip guide pin protruding down into the bolt travel area or a burr on the receiver in the curved area the bolt rides in. It would show scratches on the bolt, rear rounded part, on the tail of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
TG lock down is angry... like I need to get mad about something before trying to lock it up.

I will take a look at that, and those other areas.

Thanks

Edit:
Flipped the safety to off, and the bolt clears the bridge like it is supposed to.
 

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Take your M-14/S out of the stock and remove the oprod spring and give your rifle the tilt test.

Tilt your rifle slowly up and down 180 degrees from level and see if the oprod with travel all the way to the back and then all the way to the front, unimpeded by anything, with the bolt's locking lugs dropping completely into battery.

If so that's a good sign that there's nothing wrong with your bolt hanging up on the receiver bridge. Take your time and while you're doing the tilt test make sure that your gas piston is also free to move over its full range of travel.

Then check to make sure that your bolt's roller isn't touching the receiver on the bottom of the roller. If it is your receiver needs to be relieved in that area with a Dremel Tool so that the bolt's roller doesn't touch the receiver.

For the record, I'd much rather have your Poly Tech than anything SA Inc is turning out these days, for my own use. The Poly Tech has lots of potential for building an excellent, long lived weapon with the best receiver this side of a GI M14. I have two Poly Techs converted to US GI parts by myself and they're excellent weapons. I also have a preban SA Inc with all GI parts and it too is a fine piece as well, but that was then and this is now and times have changed.

7th
 

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Take your M-14/S out of the stock and remove the oprod spring and give your rifle the tilt test.

Tilt your rifle slowly up and down 180 degrees from level and see if the oprod with travel all the way to the back and then all the way to the front, unimpeded by anything, with the bolt's locking lugs dropping completely into battery.

If so that's a good sign that there's nothing wrong with your bolt hanging up on the receiver bridge. Take your time and while you're doing the tilt test make sure that your gas piston is also free to move over its full range of trave

Then check to make sure that your bolt's roller isn't touching the receiver on the bottom of the roller. If it is your receiver needs to be relieved in that area with a Dremel Tool so that the bolt's roller doesn't touch the receiver.

For the record, I'd much rather have your Poly Tech than anything SA Inc is turning out these days, for my own use. The Poly Tech has lots of potential for building an excellent, long lived weapon with the best receiver this side of a GI M14. I have two Poly Techs converted to US GI parts by myself and they're excellent weapons. I also have a preban SA Inc with all GI parts and it too is a fine piece as well, but that was then and this is now and times have changed.

7th
I tend to concur with what he said....
 

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TG lock down is angry... like I need to get mad about something before trying to lock it up.

I will take a look at that, and those other areas.

Thanks

Edit:
Flipped the safety to off, and the bolt clears the bridge like it is supposed to.

Interesting, so when the safety is engaged it is pulling the hammer down and the bolt drops. Is your safety really tough to engage? I ask because none of my three rifle act like that, the safety is easy to engage/ disengage and the bolt does not move when change the condition of the safety.
 

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Interesting, so when the safety is engaged it is pulling the hammer down and the bolt drops. Is your safety really tough to engage? I ask because none of my three rifle act like that, the safety is easy to engage/ disengage and the bolt does not move when change the condition of the safety.
This is a good point Rammac, and would go back to the out of spec receiver, the small rail milled at the rear where the back bolt ear rides could be too wide for height. If the side rail is too where the bolt lugs ride, it could cause the entire bolt to ride lower. That or the bridge is too high with the 60 degree arc cut for the bolt saddle.
 
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