Do the Stock and Shim the GS...Those will do more than anything else for your problem I think
The basic idea is that the barrel will move when you shoot so the gas cylinder will move too as will the front band if it's unitized or shimmed tight to the GC. Since the stock and ferrule are supposed to stay stationary, the front band lip will move relative to it, and if the surfaces in contact with each other are smooth, they'll move easily, and the tension will then slide them back together into the same position. It's the consistency of that position which aids accuracy. So, yes, the portion of the ferrule that might be in contact with the front band lip should not only be free of paint but kept as smooth as possible. I've used a Dremel 320 grit finishing abrasive buff (512E), which is rough enough to take off paint but fine enough to still polish the metal underneath. The edges of the lip are sometimes fairly sharp so softening the edges is often a good idea too. Once that's done, putting a little grease between the lip and the ferrule is the finishing touch.Should I take all the paint off the ferrule so it's metal on metal?
If there's tension between the ferrule and the front band lip, the two will always end up centered relative to each other unless there's a terrible misalignment of the stock and the barreled action and/or terrible friction between the two (perhaps caused by a dent in the ferrule material). The trick is to achieve that centering before the tension is applied so that there's no sideways pressure until things settle down.The stock ferrule on my std has had the paint removed
by shooting.Fortunately centered exactly enough Id have to use a tape measure or caliper to detemine if the wears exactly centered.Eyeball method shows tab/forum centered exactly.
I suppose I should use some emery cloth to smooth the contact areas along touch grease.
If you're referring to what would hold the carbon fiber arrow shafts in place, a high temp material certainly couldn't hurt. I used the J-B Weld slow cure epoxy, which is good up to 600 degrees F. just to be sure. It can get pretty hot around the barrel, and if one of the arrow shafts came loose, it could block functioning. Also, those carbon fiber arrows are remarkably stiff and can add considerable stiffness to a stock all by themselves.Ive got some Pro Bed 2000 from midway IIRC it uses a carbon fiber filler the consistency of putty/I have been coonsidering using a carbon fiber arrow shaft material in concert with the glass bedding.Does it need to be a high temp
I noticed this on my rifle tonight. It was pretty apparent with the handguard off and the action in the stock. It sits all the way over pressed to one side of the inside of the ferrule. I can pull it away easily, but it goes back. I tried another rifle in the same stock and it was perfectly centered. I then tried the bad rifle in the good rifle's stock and it's pressed over to the side in that one too. Is there something wrong with this barreled action?If there's tension between the ferrule and the front band lip, the two will always end up centered relative to each other unless there's a terrible misalignment of the stock and the barreled action and/or terrible friction between the two (perhaps caused by a dent in the ferrule material). The trick is to achieve that centering before the tension is applied so that there's no sideways pressure until things settle down.
I guess there could be. But consider that what's up against the inside of the ferrule is really the gas cylinder, so if the splines on the GC or the grooves in the barrel were timed wrong, you'd have the same symptoms. With the action out of the stock, how does the front of the op rod line up with the back of the gas cylinder? And looking at the chamber, is the center, between the two feed ramps, sitting directly over the tail of the op rod spring guide? Finally, with the iron sights zeroed, where does the front sight sit on the dovetail of the flash suppressor - is it centered, hanging off one side, somewhere in-between?...Is there something wrong with this barreled action?
It takes maybe 4-5 clicks of windage to get zeroed... But it looks like the whole barrel action is over to one side at the ferrule, not just the gas cylinder...
Is this pretty common? I'm assuming bedding it would fix this?
Your swapping test suggests the problem is with the rifle, not the stock. Since the goal is to get the orientation of the receiver and the portion of the stock it's sitting in such that the barrel (and GC) ends up centered at the ferrule end, bedding would take that misalignment into account because, as Dave P says, the routing of the stock in the bedding process gives the receiver some room to move in the stock....I tried another rifle in the same stock and it was perfectly centered. I then tried the bad rifle in the good rifle's stock and it's pressed over to the side in that one too...
I did some more up close investigating of the fit, and it looks like what is happening is that the front left of the receiver, opposite where the connector lock sticks out, is interfering with the stock at that point, so as the receiver slides in, it gets pushed over to the one side. Any idea why this could be happening? I filled the selector cutouts on the stock. Is it possible that in doing that I somehow warped the stock?...
Please clarify: the cutout you filled in is in the back near the heel where the selector would go on a FA receiver; the connector lock is up front and keeps the back of the op rod spring guide in place, so they wouldn't be interfering with each other. Also, the front of the receiver sits inside and rests against the stock further forward on the side opposite the connector lock; the stock isn't cut back there as it is to make room for the connector lock. So what's interfering?Forgot to mention that I did make sure that the connector lock isn't hitting the filled in cutout.
I'd say that's good news. That cutout up front allows room for the connector lock; there's no force driving it sideways but if the connector lock did walk out, a loose op rod spring guide wouldn't be a good thing. So the side of the stock is there to keep it from moving too far, should it want to, rather than forcibly holding it in place. Applying sideways force there would tend to push anything forward of the receiver legs in the direction your picture of the ferrule from below shows. Can you open up the area resting against the connector lock enough to give it a bit of clearance?Sorry for the confusion. I filled in both the front and rear cutouts in the stock. The part that is hitting the stock as the receiver slides in is the front left of the receiver if you were viewing it from the back, where the hole for the connector lock is...
Only thing I can think of is that for whatever reason, the connector lock is sticking out further than normal and will push sideways against any stock with a standard sized cutout. Perhaps the retaining pin hole is in the wrong place in the connector lock, or the lock itself is too long....I tried another rifle in the same stock and it was perfectly centered. I then tried the bad rifle in the good rifle's stock and it's pressed over to the side in that one too. Is there something wrong with this barreled action?
drx - with all this back and forth discussion, you could have bedded all three of those stocks by now!!
Just throwin' barbs at ya - don't take it seriously!
As you've seen, the space on the inside of the "U" of the ferrule is just a bit larger than the gas cylinder that fits in it. Someone with experience with large numbers of USGI M14's can give the definitive answer, but I'd hazard the guess that, as a battle rifle rather than a match rifle, the fit you're finding in the unmodified stock did just fine....So my question is, could this be the case with a lot of rifles, that the action naturally wants to go to one side or the other, but the narrow ferrule is holding it in place? And when I opened up the ferrule on my two stocks, I noticed this big "misalignment?" Or should it still want to be centered, regardless of the ferrule? I realize that ideally it should be centered, but I'm curious about just a standard grade rifle. Are most up against one side of the ferrule?...