First, to be clear, since there's been some confusion about this on past threads discussing a similar issue: We're talking about a 1/16"-1/8" gap between the front band lip that hooks under the ferrule and the ferrule itself, not the distance between the front surface of the ferrule and the back surface of the front band?Looking at my new LRB build I noticed that the tab on the front band is not touching the ferrule, maybe 1/16"-1/8" gap. I'm using a USGI synthetic stock. The lockup at the trigger group is perfect getting tight at the tip of the trigger. The receiver heel is in contact with the stock. The gas cylinder is not unitized or shimmed, but the front band is solid and doesn't move at all. There is the proper vertical clearance at the front band...
Since I've never bedded a rifle myself, I can't speak to how resilient bedding material is to considerable compression but I'd worry about it being crushed since the contact point is pretty small. If you're using metal shims (I just cut a narrow strip of aluminum from a big sheet .020" thick that I keep around for more extensive shims), just attach them with a little piece of double sided tape. Once it's locked up, they won't be going anywhere. Note that with the shims, lockup can get pretty difficult, so some grease on the trigger guard where it grabs the receiver legs during lockup helps, as does http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-ratchet-bar-clamp-spreader-46809.html.Yes, that’s correct, the gap is between the lip of the front band that hooks under the ferrule and the ferrule itself. So it sounds to me that the goal isn't just getting the proper tension between the two, but also pulling the barrel unit away from the stock for clearance, so building up the ferrule or tab so they make contact isn't reaally addressing this.
I think I will try shimming at the fulcrum and see if that helps. Can I do something more permanent if the shims work, like using bedding material instead of shims? Not a full bedding job, but just to raise the fulcrum?
If the shoe were on the other foot I'd take it to the range and try it. If it shoots better that would answer the question.Also, for the heck of it, I swapped the stock and trigger group from my other rifle (also a GI fiberglass) and the lockup was significantly tighter and there's tension now at the ferrule/tab. When I locked down the trigger guard I had to push the heel of the receiver down with my thumb. Maybe this stock is a better match for this receiver?
I would test drive it in the config you mention above. I chased the loose gas system on my springer for a while. When you have the tension you have repeatability, with out it it can and most often will reset differently after every shot.Also, for the heck of it, I swapped the stock and trigger group from my other rifle (also a GI fiberglass) and the lockup was significantly tighter and there's tension now at the ferrule/tab. When I locked down the trigger guard I had to push the heel of the receiver down with my thumb. Maybe this stock is a better match for this receiver?
All of the USGI synthetics out there are old, most are used, and some are pretty much worn out. Moreover, they aren't made to nearly the level of precision the barreled actions are, so fit and performance are bound to vary from stock to stock on the same rifle. As others have suggested, I'd try shooting it in this new configuration to see if the better fit actually makes a difference. I suspect that if you use the trigger that came with the LRB in combination with the stock that's on there now, it'll still lock up pretty much the same....Also, for the heck of it, I swapped the stock and trigger group from my other rifle (also a GI fiberglass) and the lockup was significantly tighter and there's tension now at the ferrule/tab. When I locked down the trigger guard I had to push the heel of the receiver down with my thumb. Maybe this stock is a better match for this receiver?
Shimming the GC to keep the front band stationary isn't going to give you any tension unless the front band lip is already in contact with the ferrule, in which case pulling the front band vertical will tend to pull it's lip up tighter against the ferrule. Removing material from the stock's heel will probably do it but it'd be hard to put it back if you take off too much. With a shim, you just take out the shim or put in a different thickness.Recently finished shimming the GC on my std SAI it did
snug up the forend tension slightly but not quite enough.
I can still fit sheet of writing paper inbetween ferrule and tab with a bit of effort.Of course I need to shoot it first as the gc was all sorts of sloppy beforethe shimming.What Im wondering has anyone even considered removing material from the heel so my GI TG can put more tension on the forend rather than shim the 'fulcrum' area?About bedding the TG?As it sits the TG starts to tighten just as the tip trigger and T guard hook get close together.If that isnt decipherable just like the book says its supposed to!
LOL As it sits I can tell theres some clearance between GC and the stock as I can push the front of the stock up till I feel contact with the GC.Clues as to how SEI sets up thier weapons w/o traditional bedding?Im of the same opinion glass is for target rifles.Sadly I cant afford thier work.
