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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased from Springfield Armory a Barrelled receiver many years ago. I gathered all new GI parts and decided to assemble it today.

Problem 1: Looks like I need shims to get the front band tight, I do not want to weld or drill/screw this part. Is shims the best route? Any alternatives to weld/drill/shim?

Problem 2: I put the bolt hold open together and I did not make sure the bolt hold open worked freely on its roll pin. Now it sticks and will not spring back. Any help? How would I remove the pin when I can not get a punch into the other end?

Problem 3: New operating rod, after I managed to get it in it is tight near the rear and sticks. Can I use lapping compound to get slide moving freely?

Looks like my next BIG problem will be getting the Op Rod off!

Things that went ok were: Op Rod Guide, used center punch to get a tight fit on barrel, Rear sight, used a center punch and lapping compound to get it tight.

Any help is appreciated, Thank You.
 

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Screech said:
Problem 1: Looks like I need shims to get the front band tight, I do not want to weld or drill/screw this part. Is shims the best route? Any alternatives to weld/drill/shim?

Problem 2: I put the bolt hold open together and I did not make sure the bolt hold open worked freely on its roll pin. Now it sticks and will not spring back. Any help? How would I remove the pin when I can not get a punch into the other end?

Problem 3: New operating rod, after I managed to get it in it is tight near the rear and sticks. Can I use lapping compound to get slide moving freely?
1. Yes, shims work very well for this. You can get them at Fulton Armory, among other places.

2. The ends of the bolt stop roll pin need to be crimped slightly so the pin will rotate freely in the receiver. Since you've already got the bolt stop installed, you'll need to use a roll pin punch to drive it out from front to back. I usually use the smallest punch that I have (smaller than the correct size for the pin) and very carefully drive the pin backwards as far as I can. Then I grab the pin from the rear with a pair of small vise-grip pliers and gently work the pin out. Put some electricians tape on the receiver behind the bolt stop so you don't mar the finish, and be careful with the punch driving the pin out. You can break off all or part of the frame if you aren't careful.

3. Not sure, but I think I'd stone the tab on the op rod to get it to fit properly.
 

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You're very welcome.

BTW, welcome to the forum - lots of great people here. Any questions or help that you might need, someone will probably be able to help you out. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
2. The ends of the bolt stop roll pin need to be crimped slightly so the pin will rotate freely in the receiver. Since you've already got the bolt stop installed, you'll need to use a roll pin punch to drive it out from front to back. I usually use the smallest punch that I have (smaller than the correct size for the pin) and very carefully drive the pin backwards as far as I can. Then I grab the pin from the rear with a pair of small vise-grip pliers and gently work the pin out. Put some electricians tape on the receiver behind the bolt stop so you don't mar the finish, and be careful with the punch driving the pin out. You can break off all or part of the frame if you aren't careful.
I am a little confused here. I thought the bolt stop roll pin was tight in the receiver and loose in the bolt stop so the bolt stop will turn freely on the pin? The roll pin I have was tight going into the receiver and fairly loose in the bolt stop but not quite loose enough to turn freely..

Thanks for the help!
 

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Either way works, but it's easier to crimp the ends.

For what it's worth, the pin I took of a demilled M14 receiver was crimped on the ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I got the bolt stop out with no problems. Now I got a new pin or 2 and work that issue out. I now see what you mean by crimping the roll pin ends (kinda squeeze them so they rock in receiver).

The gas tube will be no problem once I get the shims. :D

I used some Brownells lapping compound on the rear 2 inches of the op rod and receiver. It now slides free EXCEPT for the last 1/4 inch where the top of the op rod comes into contact with the side of the rear sight housing on the receiver. I put a little lapping compound in that area and worked the op slide a bunch of times. It loosened a little and now I see the "high" spots or rub areas. Is this normal? I do not think it is sticky enough to stop once op rod spring is installed.



Again, Thank You for the help, I think I am going get this M1A going :D !
 
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