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Discussion Starter #1
I have been thinking about performing the relatively simple procedure of trimming material off of the front ferrule to eliminate the chance of it contacted the gas cylinder during firing. I have a SA loaded model with the synthetic stock and am wondering if this is a good or bad idea since I will have to remove some material from the stock as well.

Has anyone done this with success to these stocks, or is it a problem waiting to happen (i.e. the stock breaking at the weakened joint by the ferrule) if i perform this on a synthetic (not fiberglass) stock?
 

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I did it with moderate success. Just took a dremel and took my time. I say moderate success because I later installed an actual NM ferrule to it and realized I still had a lot of material to go.

Wait, you said synthetic. I use synthetic and Fiberglas interchangeably. I see no problems though. The key is taking your time. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea, i have seen it done to USGI fiberglass, so just to clarify this would be a synthetic (polypropylene i believe) stock that Springfield is selling.
 

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Best done with a die grinder, carbide ball burr, and a rheostat. I guess a dremel would do but seems hard to be consistent since it is small and under-powered. The cheaper die grinders are actually better since they are 240W and not professional 2 HP ones like Bosch, Makita, Dewalt, etc. They eat too fast. A $25 die grinder, $15 carbide single cut 1/2" ball burr, and a $20 rheostat. Together with a $40 Harbor Freight 1" belt sander for the handguard fit.

I perform NM ferrule mods on wood stocks using a sharp rasp and deburring tool, then use the die grinder to clear the gas cylinder. Use the GC to confirm fit and provide clearances. Also may want to clear the handguard from the stock as well. I use a belt sander for this. Mark the interface of the handguard/stock by running a white grease pencil between the two. Use the belt sander to remove the mark on the handguard and voila you're done. Check fit is correct, even it up. Should have a 1/16" gap. Easiest way I've found to do that mod.

Good luck. If you want the NM ferrule mod then go ahead and do it. You can pull it off.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I am completely confident in my skills to perform this modification (I am not bragging by any means, but i have done more complicated modifications than this successfully to some of my rifles).

The purpose of this post was a question as to the strength of the SA synthetic stock once some material has been removed for the extra clearance by the front ferrule. If it is something i should worry about, or just do it.

Sorry if that came off snappy, but i just want to avoid further confusion.
 

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Perfectly clear. I was confused. Go ahead and let folks know your background.

Not sure. I would replace the SAI tupperware anyhow if I was that concerned with stiffness. Get a USGI fiberglass from Freds or on the market. $150 delivered or so. I find the USGI ones to be plenty stiff if your not hanging rails and bi-pods off of them. Lockup is great. Then you can always reinforce it with Kevlar strips too. I've heard of some even gluing rods into them.

I'd do the mod and then see how she holds up. I'm a walnut fan myself, but never tried the mod on an SAI synthetic.
 

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just did that to a usgi fiberglass I got from freds didn't take maby 10min and got plenty of room now, the sai blk stock was just way tooo flimsy! if u screw it up pm me don't plan on using mine again!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
haven't been on the site lately since i just moved from one city to another city for a new job.

I did do this mod the other week and it was just as simple as i thought it would be. The stock has held up to two short range sessions (maybe 120 rounds) without any sign of wear in the stock.

So if anyone is wondering whether or not to do it, I say go ahead if you have a steady hand or a spare stock since I can see how it would be quite easy to slip and take off too much material with how soft that SA plastic is.
 
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