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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Banbam sent me a new Krieger [spl],, heavy M14 barrel,, the bad news is, the finished chamber is way to long. Just can't stand to see this barrel as useless.

There is a way to salvage the barrel by advancing the shoulder one full turn, leaving everything else one full turn short..That has been done, of course other parts will not align themselves, so serious mods. are in progress.. This is where you can assist and become part of the project.

Here's the pitch. Several parts are needed, they do not have to be other than serviceable and USGI.

Needed are:

Gas plug.
Wood stock.
There may be additions later..

I would be happy to pay the postage, the parts will be modified and no longer useful, the entire project may end up the same way. If you prefer not to have your name attached to this project,, here's my E mail, <[email protected]> Art L
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chief on one

well I have a some stocks; what are you looking for??

A good stock; a beater stock.
Let me know. Birch or Walnut.


This project requires shortening of the stock at the front end, moving the ferrule back about 1/10 of an inch. As long as the stock is not bent or cracked in a pressure bearing area the condition doesn't matter. Birch would be best, less likely to have cracks, plus some natural oil left.


Very kind of you to respond, I'm excited about this project and working to solve a number of issues


Best regards, Art Luppino
 

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I don't know not trying too poo poo this, its a lot of work. But there are a few hurdles I can't get around? One is the original G/P and the fact that is there enough meat in the barrel too support the gas cylinder rings? As we all know the M14's barrel steps up and down, then is there enough threads for full thread engagement for the G/C lock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Please explain

What about barrel protrusion? Do you have to cut it back?
Don't follow on protrusion question. Are we talking about the receiver thread tenon, if so, yes, that had to be advanced and new threads added, it's been re machined by Banbam, outstanding job..

My plan is to set the rifle up for single fire only at this time, since the gas system has been advance one full rotation the gas port is now blocked. The plug will have to be machined off to compensate for advanced piston to rod to establish proper piston to rod contact. The piston will only secure the rod but be non. functioning..

If all works out and accuracy is good, I'll tackle the semi aspect, which should be easy..

The big issue is to locate a GI stock that is serviceable, the ferrule will have to be moved back also, leaving the stock useless for normal use..

It's been a challenge, with all the rain I've had time to fool around with it..

Best regards to and family,,

Art
 

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I don't know not trying too poo poo this, its a lot of work. But there are a few hurdles I can't get around? One is the original G/P and the fact that is there enough meat in the barrel too support the gas cylinder rings? As we all know the M14's barrel steps up and down, then is there enough threads for full thread engagement for the G/C lock?
All of the gas system would move back 1/10 inch with the barrel.

All that (theoretically) has to be done is shorten the front of stock a op-rod 1/10 inch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You had to ask..

I don't know not trying too poo poo this, its a lot of work. But there are a few hurdles I can't get around? One is the original G/P and the fact that is there enough meat in the barrel too support the gas cylinder rings? As we all know the M14's barrel steps up and down, then is there enough threads for full thread engagement for the G/C lock?
Yes, to both questions, and it was alot of work,,, almost finished, waiting for a usable stock..

If this fails there will be zero follow-up,,

Regards, Art
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm missing it here..

Art,

Why don't you just fire form new brass to that chamber and keep separate. Purchase another die for sizing and seating this brass only.

Perhaps I didn't make this situation clear, I'm good at that..

I received the barrel already one full turn shorter, the chamber HS is correct, the barrel being short one full turn short moves all attachments out of alignment an equal amount.
.
The chamber is not an issue, the issue is the gas port and piston protrusion. requiring mods to various parts.. Art
 

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Art are you going to bed the stock? Remember that birch stock that was on my rifle before you bedded it in that NM stock, you had modified it slightly do to a receiver leg being too large. Will that one meet your needs?
 

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Art
I have a gas cylinder that was shorten at the rear and the piston shorten also. I would have to measure it to see how much it was shortened. Who ever did it was messing with the dwell time. Could you do the same thing to make the weapon fire semi. auto.
 

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As lysander pointed out, all you really need to do is shorten an operating rod. Most are welded from two pieces to begin with. Maybe Jeff at Bula can hook you up.

You can shorten the tenon and profile of a wood stock and attach a new ferrule.

Since your gas port is now closer to the breech, I would use ported gas plug or a reduced load, just to be on the safe side. I would also check to make sure that the meaty part of the oprod isn't hitting the guide when in battery.
 

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As lysander pointed out, all you really need to do is shorten an operating rod. Most are welded from two pieces to begin with. Maybe Jeff at Bula can hook you up.

You can shorten the tenon and profile of a wood stock and attach a new ferrule.

Since your gas port is now closer to the breech, I would use ported gas plug or a reduced load, just to be on the safe side. I would also check to make sure that the meaty part of the oprod isn't hitting the guide when in battery.
Just cut off a 1/4 inch of the front of the op-rod and weld a new plug on the front. to bring the total loss back to 1/10 inch.

You will loose some spring room, but it should affect much.
 

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Just cut off a 1/4 inch of the front of the op-rod and weld a new plug on the front. to bring the total loss back to 1/10 inch.

You will loose some spring room, but it should affect much.
Might have to shorten the oprod spring guide a bit as well.

I have zero knowledge of the Garand, can the piston somehow be used as a new tip for the oprod? Just thinking out loud.
 
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