Dpms Flash Supressors

1110 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by 5594, Feb 5, 2005

THRASHER

Discussion Starter · Feb 3, 2005

Just got 2 of the DPMS flash supressors and they will not fit. The SA Inc. FS slips right on just as easy as the USGI FS I have. But when I try the DPMS FS it want go down to even make contact between the castle nut to the barrel threads. I think I can tap it a little and get the nut started but I dont like to force thinks like that. Has this happened to anyone else? Any suggestions?

Thanks!!

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Gunrunner

· #2 · Feb 4, 2005

I bought two NM flash suppressors w/ bayonet lugs from Fulton Armory. I had to place a block of wood on them and use a hammer to tap them down to where the castle nut caught the threads. On one of them, I had to hit the wood very hard a number of times. I stood the rifle up with the buttplate on the floor when I did this.

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SS100

· #3 · Feb 4, 2005

Trasher, you want it to go on tight. I tapped mine on with a plastic hammer while keeping up with the nut as you go.

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JoshM14

· #4 · Feb 4, 2005

I replaced a Pollytech FS with one from Fulton, it was on a US GI Barrel.

Perfect intalation, was easy.

Is this a GI Barrle or an SA barrel that the issue is with?

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THRASHER

Discussion Starter · #5 · Feb 4, 2005

Thanks for the help. The barrel is a wilson med. wt. on a Loaded model. I was just concerned because the other FS's fit so lose.

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Gunrunner

· #6 · Feb 4, 2005

My barrels are USGI.

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Shadow

· #7 · Feb 4, 2005

Thrasher,
I ordered 3 lugged suppressers from Lou @ LRB, and I had to tap all three on when I did the install. These went on a stainless med. weight, a TRW USGI, and a Poly barrels.
I think you are OK
Shadow

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Different

· #8 · Feb 4, 2005

Agreed, you want the flash suppressor to fit tightly on the barrel.

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5594

· #9 · Feb 5, 2005

I installed an LRB suppressor on a GI barrel and experienced the same issue. What I found was that the inner corners of the alignment splines were ever so slightly less sharp than the coresponding edges of the slots in the barrel. (Push the suppressor on and off part way a few times and see where the park is rubbing off on the inside of the new suppressor. This shows the points of interference.) Also, you will notice that high spots on the inner surface have the park rubbbing off a bit too.

Very slight and judicious application of the proper-shaped needle files knocked these little corners down and smoothed the high spots in the park a bit. This allowed the suppressor to be pushed on most of the way by hand, and the lever action of the castle nut screwing down (with alternating slight taps on the end of the suppressor) to fully seat it on the barrel.

I didn't want to NOT be able to get the thing off later, and I didn't want mechanical stresses to pre-dispose the cast part to fracture.

My instinct is: Don't force it. Fit it.

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