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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In The M14 Complete Assembly Guide, on the bottom of page 5, they say to "pull rearward on the trigger gaurd to unlatch..." etc. Next sentence applies to my new SAI MN rifle:"You can't budge the trigger guard?".

Today I tried to measure the unlatching effort, and estimate it's at least 25 - 30 lb to get that thing unlatched, but then you've got so much pressure on it directly backwards that you can't then simultaneously pull upwards, unless I design some special pull and lift tool. As well, I have arthritis, and doing this a lot will permanently unlatch my already frail finger joints. It can't really be designed or intended to be this tough, is it?

Question: any problems with "limbering up" the guard strap a tad bit (i.e.: unbending it slightly my big ol' bench vise) so that it is a whole lot easier to remove? Or, is this latching strength somehow especially critical to accuracy or durability, or is there a huge variation in how they build them? It doesn't seem to be one of those things that would improve with age, though the actual latching connection point may be a bit too aggressive and "latchy", so it might benefit from, let's say, a bit of honing to allow it to come off with a "mere", let's say, 5 lb or so?

I'd really hate to have to field strip mine in the dark of night; the screams of rage and the pain from my mangled, bleeding fingers would surely give away my position! GI3

Help me, ObiWan! You are my only hope!
 

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For what its worth, my trigger guard has a hard pull and what I do is keep a cleaning rod section with me, stick it in the loophole in the rear of the trigger guard and use it as a lever. Works like a charm, just beats the rod to death after awhile.

Good luck!
 

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I keep a small brass punch in my tool kit for just the same problem. The brass doesn't harm the finish or the trigger guard. FWIW
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Or....

Based on the picture in that book, I placed a screwdriver across the back of the guard and placed the butt stock down on the carpeted floor between my feet (carpets being generally unavailable in the battlefield...) and pressed down real hard! As I said, about 25 lbs at least (it exceeded the limits on my 25lb fish scale.)

Could it be that I happen to have a real tough one? My question still remains: what harm in modifying the bend of the trigger guard to lighten this up a bit? Anyone done that?
 

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Use a tool. Insert and lift towards the muzzle of the rifle. The idea is to flex the trigger guard tab out of the trigger housing . Pulling down doesn't really describe the operation or manipulation of the tool. Very little force is needed to flex the guard with a tool.
 

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Plus one on this. This is what that hole is for.

Use a tool. Insert and lift towards the muzzle of the rifle. The idea is to flex the trigger guard tab out of the trigger housing . Pulling down doesn't really describe the operation or manipulation of the tool. Very little force is needed to flex the guard with a tool.
 

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Plus one on this. This is what that hole is for.
Plus plus one.

The unassisted process is illustrated on page 8 of this:

http://www.lenaweemilitia.com/m-14.pdf

Pull at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the rifle, not in an upward direction. If you try any upward pressure, you are going to increase the pressure required to unhook the guard and may damage the hinge.

If you still have problems, in training you were advised to take a cleaning rod section out of the cleaning kit and used it as a lever in the small hole. Brass rods are bettter for the finish.
 

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I have bent trigger guards inwards when they wouldn't latch properly because they were too loose. Don't see why you couldn't do the reverse, however...

Before you change anything, try using the multi tool and pull in the direction of the arrow. I find this to be the easiest way to pop it.

 

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NM rifles are somewhat harder to unlatch. Especially new ones. You are receiving good info. Once you get the hang of it there is nothing to it. Good to see an old man still playing with M-1A's. I have a Supermatch that I bought new in 85. Installing a laminated stock as soon as the 5th coat of poly dries. Been shooting 14's since Ft. Polk in 67. Hang in there-you'll make it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Trix of the Trade, obviously!

You are using a tool through the hole, right?
Nope; wasn't, but apparently that's the ticket. I have the USGI multi-tool nestled away in the buttstock, wrapped in cloth. Out she comes this very afternoon!

Plus plus one.

The unassisted process is illustrated on page 8 of this:

http://www.lenaweemilitia.com/m-14.pdf

Pull at a 90 degree angle to the bottom of the rifle, not in an upward direction. If you try any upward pressure, you are going to increase the pressure required to unhook the guard and may damage the hinge.

If you still have problems, in training you were advised to take a cleaning rod section out of the cleaning kit and used it as a lever in the small hole. Brass rods are better for the finish.
GI1 ..."in training" you say? GI2 You mean, when they had us field strip our FN-CALs up in Canukistan? In the dark? That was super-easy compared to this platform, and that danged rifle was, and still is, very impressive to my mind. But now that I'm a proudly patriotic US Citizen, and these durned M14 thangs is also so confoundedly phun, I just haddah learn to get the hang of this'n too.

And then, soon enough, you knows a bunch of stuff that no-one else does, and you can strut around all knowledgeable and such! Unlike them Mouse Gun Types with their Mattel Barbie & Ken plinkie-plink rifles... DI5

Just to clear up things. I am not black-my 1970 Chevelle is.
OK by me either way! Some of the best taxpayers in this country are black after all! Hmmm.... a '70 blacked-out Chevelle, huh? You know of course, that you really need a 396 in that little lady, no?

Oh and BTW, thanks: "Good to see an old man still playing with M-1A's. "

I try. You're only as old as your last birthday!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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.......My question still remains: what harm in modifying the bend of the trigger guard to lighten this up a bit? Anyone done that?
I don't think a slight bending of the trigger guard would hurt. The clamping action that pulls the trigger group into the receiver happens when you're swinging the guard from wide-open down to where it touches down. That big swing is where the lever action is taking place. I'm thinking that last little 1/4 inch is just to latch the tab and prevent the guard from coming loose until you want it to.
 

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Since i was never a fan of metal on metal action, I decided to take my (patented) M1a Dowel Tool and use it as a bar to pull the gaurd back. That immediately unhooks it and pulling it up is then a breeze.
 

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Just so you all know I built a 383 and instaslled a 4-speed-4 wheel disc brakes(Caddy on the rear) I am a small block person. Just finished the Boyd's laminated stock. Turned out really well. Got the Lam hand guard too. This little project is not for the squemish or someone with little patience. Some trimming is required-but the results are well worth the effort. Lock up is real tight(just right). When I learn to post pictures I will do so. Thanks
 
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