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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Found a cool one in 44 mag. 7.5 ported barrel, wood grips. Not too pretty but not beat to hell. Only problem is that barrel feels loose and it doesn't have the barrel tool with it. Cz sells new wrenches, but it looks like I will have to buy the notched barrel nut to go with it. Tool kit comes with a new barrel shim as well I think. Any wesson owners on here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will the new barrel nut fit? I assume the Barrel shoulder can use shims to tighten and time, adjust cylinder gap. Is that right? I've been fascinated by them for a while but never dug into their use. It's actually at a gunsmith shop, it's on consignment for cheap. When it came in the barrel wasn't installed. He says you need the wrench to tighten it up properly, which he doesn't have. The nut it has is knurled, new ones are notched. Cylinder locks up very solid, I love the trigger.
 

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The barrel nut should fit as long as it is for the right caliber. The "shim" should be the feeler gauge and is just for getting the correct cylinder gap.

Have you pulled off the barrel shroud to inspect the threads on the end where the nut goes? There has to be a reason the nut is missing.

Got a link to what you are looking at?
 

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Have a "small frame" 357mag model 15-6VH , I have the 4"VH and 8"H barrels also,
I've owned her since the 70's . I like them, they're very accurate well made shooters.
Never dealt with the "large frame" DW though.
The shim is used to set the gap between the cylinder and the barrel.
Your factory barrel nut should be slotted for the barrel wrench
If the barrel nut is loose your shroud should move fore and aft .
your barrel is screwed quite a ways into the receiver, and shouldn't be "loose" , the shroud fits over the barrel and tightening the barrel nut in effect stretches the barrel .
[one of the reasons DW's are so accurate]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Will take some pics of it tomorrow when I go back by the shop on lunch brake. It's a 7.5 heavy barrel, has 3 slot comp milled into shroud ahead of front sight. The knurled nut is not recessed like standard type. You are right about the "shim", it is indeed a feeler gauge. I'm trying to find pics of the comped barrel online too compare. Funny how you learn stuff in 5 mins on YouTube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok I found some pics, is a 445 supermag comped barrel. It uses its own nut wrench which I found online for $30. Going to have him double check the cylinder chambers to verify it's 44 mag and not the supermag.
 

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A little article on the 445 supermag

http://www.sixguns.com/BookOfThe44/bot44c40.htm

While the 445 supermag will shoot 44 mags and 44 specials ,
the extra long frame & cylinder is the BIG diference between the 44mag and the 445 supermag
Also notice where the article refers to different threads on the DW 445 supermag receivers/barrels vs the 44mag versions
 
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Ok I found some pics, is a 445 supermag comped barrel. It uses its own nut wrench which I found online for $30. Going to have him double check the cylinder chambers to verify it's 44 mag and not the supermag.
If it is a 445 super mag the frame should say 445 in front of the serial number.
 

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If the barrel is ported you will have problems shooting cast bullets, the ports shave lead from the bullets as they exit the barrel. I have seen this happen first hand myself.

You can put a non ported barrel in the ported shroud though, then you can shoot cast bullets.

When you set the cylinder gap, make sure you rotate the cylinder and measure the gap on each chamber. I have seen DW cylinders that were not flat on the face of the cylinder and would bind if the gap was set too tight. I would think that the cylinder could be surface ground if this was a significant issue that prevented a gap under five thousandths.
 

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You can put a non ported barrel in the ported shroud though, then you can shoot cast bullets.

When you set the cylinder gap, make sure you rotate the cylinder and measure the gap on each chamber. I have seen DW cylinders that were not flat on the face of the cylinder and would bind if the gap was set too tight. I would think that the cylinder could be surface ground if this was a significant issue that prevented a gap under five thousandths.
I had a Model 15 that had that problem... I marked the 'long' side of the cylinder so I would be able to set the gap properly, so it wouldn't bind up after a cylinder or two. My 741 doesn't have that problem.

OP, if you need some additional info, head over to the Dan Wesson forum, there's a good bunch over there that can help you with the finer things, and sometimes parts are for sale as well. I finally found a .41 Dan Wesson a few years ago... another gun marked off my Unobtanium list. It's a hell of a shooter and I'll never part with it. Good luck with yours!
 

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The problem with the barrel may have to do with the "ports" on the shroud, it takes a special wrench to reach the threads fully when you have that shroud type. Some barrel wrenches won't even reach the threads and some only reach it 'part way'.
EWK Arms has the special wrench you will need to fully engage the threads so you can tighten it.
Hope this helps!! The Dan Wesson with the ports makes 44mag rounds feel like 44spls when I shoot it, so it's worth getting one of these!!
My Dan Wesson is "center bottom" it's a 44mag:
 

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Snyper , if that DW turns out to be a .445 supermag , be aware that EWK Arm catalog shows a special barrel wrench for a 445supermag that's different than the .41/.44/.45 standard wrench.
Your post heightened my interest in the large frames DW's I've never owned one , yet
 
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