[RichFool]

I have three uppers, a DPMS, a S&W M&P, and a Palmetto State Armory.

The DPMS has a fantastic stake job done by Ahlman's when they replaced the chattered muzzle finish..

The other two are crap. I assume sending them back will be on my dime, so I think I'll be out over $50 for shipping.

For ~$20 more, Brownells will ship me the tool to do it myself: (69.99 + 3.95 = 73.94)
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...5-m16-carrier-key-staking-tool-prod29337.aspx

If I get it, what are my odds of selling it and getting most of my $$$ out of it?

EDIT: If I sell it for $50, I'm $20 to the better.

 

[Instructor]

Is the staking of the gas keys a cosmetic issue or do you fear it will come loose due to poor staking or both?? I have had some ugly staking on gas keys before, but even though did not like them, did not budge and cause any problems, just curious.

 

[Bamban]

I have three uppers, a DPMS, a S&W M&P, and a Palmetto State Armory.

The DPMS has a fantastic stake job done by Ahlman's when they replaced the chattered muzzle finish..

The other two are crap. I assume sending them back will be on my dime, so I think I'll be out over $50 for shipping.

For ~$20 more, Brownells will ship me the tool to do it myself: (69.99 + 3.95 = 73.94)
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...5-m16-carrier-key-staking-tool-prod29337.aspx

If I get it, what are my odds of selling it and getting most of my $$$ out of it?

EDIT: If I sell it for $50, I'm $20 to the better.

I will buy it for $50 shipped, if you decide to go that route. I am supporting a couple of dozens of TX Junior shooters, I am sure at some point I could use the tool.

 

[Cool Breeze]

I have been building AR's for years, you don't need an expensive special tool to stake the cap screws on the key, if they do not appear to be loose do not re-tighten, if they are the TM says best to use new cap screws and torque them 35-40 inch-pounds. Couple ways to stake these using a center punch, usually the factory staking has either one punch mark at the edge of each screw, or two coming in from the side edge of the key like the tool from Brownell's makes, I can replicate the same stake marks using a flat blade screwdriver. For a simple field repair you can use a center punch and put 3 equal strikes around the edge of each screw to include re-strike the original mark.

I've seen a few loose ones that got re-staked by either-all method or done it myself, sometimes ugly, but, functional and an approved field repair, really not a big deal if they're not loose. If it really bothers you, new keys & screws are around $15 bucks each and do it yourself. Again, not really a big deal.

 

[ChileRelleno]

I improved the staking on my S&W M&P with just a brass center punch.
No need to send it anywhere nor buy anything.

 

[smoothy8500]

I think you have been spending too much time on AR15(dot)com...Back when I used to dabble on that site all they did was talk about poor staking jobs. Or obsess about "The Matrix" and who's top-tier.

 

[RichFool]

I will buy it for $50 shipped, if you decide to go that route. I am supporting a couple of dozens of TX Junior shooters, I am sure at some point I could use the tool.

I will keep you in mind, should I go this route, especially since you are supporting Jr shooters.

 

[RichFool]

Is the staking of the gas keys a cosmetic issue or do you fear it will come loose due to poor staking or both?? I have had some ugly staking on gas keys before, but even though did not like them, did not budge and cause any problems, just curious.

There are minor indentations on the bolt carrier, but even the deepest one doesn't come close to the screwhead.

EDIT: They may as well have not been staked, so coming lose is my concern.

 

[RichFool]

I have been building AR's for years, you don't need an expensive special tool to stake the cap screws on the key, if they do not appear to be loose do not re-tighten, if they are the TM says best to use new cap screws and torque them 35-40 inch-pounds. Couple ways to stake these using a center punch, usually the factory staking has either one punch mark at the edge of each screw, or two coming in from the side edge of the key like the tool from Brownell's makes, I can replicate the same stake marks using a flat blade screwdriver. For a simple field repair you can use a center punch and put 3 equal strikes around the edge of each screw to include re-strike the original mark.

I've seen a few loose ones that got re-staked by either-all method or done it myself, sometimes ugly, but, functional and an approved field repair, really not a big deal if they're not loose. If it really bothers you, new keys & screws are around $15 bucks each and do it yourself. Again, not really a big deal.

I don't have the skills to do this safely.

 

[Instructor]

Since you already have the start so to speak of staking, use that as a guide to apply the punch to further stake as you see fit. Not hard to do.

 

[smoothy8500]

I wonder if "poorly staked" gas keys is actually a problem? A lot (not saying ALL) of the NM AR's don't have heavily staked keys. Those guys are putting at least 2-3,000 rounds a year and don't see an issue.

 

[brianns]

A local gunsmith might be confident to finish the staking and do it for a few bucks.

 

[Instructor]

I believe the staking of the key originally done due to the full auto ability, combat, etc. would take place, but few civilians are ever going to match that kind of firing in a common AR15 and daily use.

 

[Earthquake]

Tack weld them with a TIG torch and I guarantee they wont come loose! if you have to replace the key it is easy to cut the tack with a Dremel tool and a cut off wheel. If you do a quick tack with the amps turned up so it fusses fast it wont get too hot, probably not as hot as a few 30 round mag dumps would. if you are worried about it make a heat sink to shove in it out of aluminum.

Casey

 

[Mr.Smith]

But the staking looks OK.

Thank you,
Mr.Smith

 

[Louis1332]

In the Army, if we replaced the key, we would stake with a center punch... three places per screw like Cool Breeze said. Hopefully, the key was facing the right way.

To defeat the factory heavy two place staking, we used a hacksaw and cut the key across the staking and through the screws. Then used a flat tip screwdriver to remove.

 

[andyh1956]

When I was in Afghanistan I saw the boys in the SASC grind a notch in the bolt head & stake material over into the notch.
In the automotive world we would use a Locktite product to accomplish the same thing.

 

[Dougboffl]

Bang the BCG on a bolt, or corner of a metal target stand etc... & done.