[conditionone]

I have issue castle nut pliers, I've backed off the set screw, but cannot break the castle nut loose. I heated it with a propane torch and still can't get it loose. Any suggestions?

 

[tonyben]

Soak it in Kroil maybe. I use vise grips modified to fit in the castle nut and it removes castle nuts with no problems. I've never used GI ones.

 

[jens5]

Castle nut

I just went thought this. Tony was right on with using Kroil.
Heat it 1st with your torch,(not too hot) and while warm hit it with some Kroil. Let it sit and try it again. I ruined my cheap pair of pliers the 1st time around. I ordered a HD set from AR specialty's. Good luck

 

[GCBurner]

And make sure you're not trying to unscrew the nut on a Norinco or Polytech; these are tack welded in place, and the welds need to be cut before it will come off. GI1

 

[gulliver62]

Jens, can you supply link to the heavy duty pliers?

 

[bd111]

I have issue castle nut pliers, I've backed off the set screw, but cannot break the castle nut loose. I heated it with a propane torch and still can't get it loose. Any suggestions?

Kroil or Liquid Wrench + a good night's sleep. Mark the castle nut and flash suppressor to each other with nail polish. Tap the flash suppressor head-on with a wooden mallet. Castle nut will come loose with your GI pliers. When you put it back on, pass the side that sets down against the F/S on a piece of 200 grit sandpaper on a flat surface enough times to polish the edge. Put it back in the same place it came off. It'll fit perfectly.

 

[jens5]

Jens, can you supply link to the heavy duty pliers?

He's out. Apparently, I got his last pair. He was on Gun Broker.

 

[Rubline]

Is the set screw backed out far enough??

 

[slimj]

Remove the set screw completely to be certain it is not engaging the castlenut.

 

[82nd ABN]

I take it your working on a SAI rifle. It has been spoken about several times how dificult it is to remove them. Heat should make any loc tite turn to a powder but I am not sure thats used, I have never had to remove mine. Good news is many here have had the problem and will be able to offer advice. One of the biggest problems is the tools being used. SOme are not up to standard.

 

[Gus Fisher]

At Camp Perry I ran into the WORST case of not being able to get a SAinc. FS off one of their NM rifles I ever ran across. This gun was built in the late 90's or early 2,000's.

Kroil did not work, heat from a propane torch did not work, I did not have a freezer to put it in overnight, I finally tried PB Blaster and that worked on the second day of spraying PB into it every few hours. PB Blaster is better at loosening parts than Liquid Wrench in my very limited experience.

 

[jerry909]

I second that. Kroil is good stuff but it's not as widely distributed as PB Blaster which you can find at Lowes. I've used both Liquid Wrench and PB, Blaster IS definitely better. A little heat applied on the area before application causes the liquid to thin out and get sucked into joints and threads through capillary action.

 

[K60]

castle nut

heat for min with torch - take small file -and stick handle in castlenut recessed opening- hit top of file -hard- with bfh a couple times till it loosens- if it hurts yer pride seeing a scratch - buy a new nut or f.s. there r tons out there.

 

[Al Mack]

This might be a dumb question but are you using a gas cylinder wrench to keep the rifle from twisting.

 

[K60]

wrench

no a vise.

 

[conditionone]

so, I had to go out of town and work instead of working on my new rifle. What I came up with was Deep Creep. I scoured every parts store, etc and it was the best I could find. I am an impatient person.
Will heat, treat, soak and sleep. To answer all the questions, so y'all don't think I am a complete dingdong:
SAI '94 production, no welds, set screw out, no GS wrench but vise grips. I've taken one off before quite easily, but this sucker is ON.
I will post pictures of my new rifle and post. It's a good one.



Removed it yesterday, thanks everybody.

 

[ArbowAxle]

Are you turning in the correct way? With the muzzle facing you, turn it counter clockwise.
After saying the set screw is OUT, you've used heat to liquify the LocTite, and you've used vise grips...... The vise grips should generate plenty enough torque to remove the castle nut.

 

[DaMoose]

I am guessing he is doing it right.

I swear that SAI has a gorilla the size of king kong put these damn things on.

The ones just after the 94 ban seem to be the worse offenders.

I pre oiled mine for a week before I even tried.

 

[Visigoth9]

The shame is that going "gorilla tight" on the castle nut

does NOT promote consistent accuracy of the firearm

 

[High Hat]

so, I had to go out of town and work instead of working on my new rifle. What I came up with was Deep Creep. I scoured every parts store, etc and it was the best I could find. I am an impatient person.
Will heat, treat, soak and sleep. To answer all the questions, so y'all don't think I am a complete dingdong:
SAI '94 production, no welds, set screw out, no GS wrench but vise grips. I've taken one off before quite easily, but this sucker is ON.
I will post pictures of my new rifle and post. It's a good one.



Removed it yesterday, thanks everybody.

Now do yourself a favor and put on a gas lock front sight with a direct connect flash suppressor. The castle nut idea is pure Rube Goldberg in my opinion.