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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone.
The wife has been gone for a month and a half now hiking the Appalachian trail and needless to say, the good idea fairy has set up shop. We shoot team matches such as snipers unknown and the mammoth sniper challenge together. My geniuses idea is to run a M1a at the mammoth in January.

I bought the rifle in 2010 from a gun show thinking it was a SA national match. All current signs are pointing to that being a lie. No hooded rear sight. I have not put more then 150 rounds through it and the only things I have done is throw it in a archangel stock and put a SA rail (peened and lock tight). To be honest I never shot a group with it at 100 till this afternoon. With m118 I produced 3x 5 shot groups at 2.14 inches average.

My questions:
1) Is the Accuracy exceptable in the M1a community? Coming from a trued 700 with a m24 hart barrel shooting 3/8 groups all day I'm not impressed. I know it's a apples to cucumbers comparison.

2) will someone point me to a source for reloading information. I have always heard over pressure is REALLY bad in this platform. What velocity can I expect to get out of 20 inch barrel shooting 175s, 168s, 155s?

3) my hand gaurd interferes with the stock, again not even pretending to be an expert...but... it seems bad. Can I float it some how or is trimming it to have clearance all I can do.

4) gas cylinder. Not even gonna open the can of worms regarding what method of unitizing is better. I'll buy what ever I can find... don't really want to get this one welded, it looks cast. Second issue with it is the fitment of the gas cylinder lock, I have just over 1/4 turn of over travel. Baring the fact that I want to find a unitized cylinder and most likely having the same issue with the new. Where do the shims go? Logic tells me between the lock and cylinder but let's not forget I'm knee deep in what it's right now. Also, Does a adjustable gas plug or new piston help?

5) op rod. Does a sadlak or badger guide and new spring help? The op rod itself looks like a 12 year old in auto shop turned it on a brake lathe during lunch time. It's not smooth where it interferes with the guide.

6) The stock is incredibly ridge, clearances well down the channel and seems to hold the action firmly on both sides of the action where I would expect it needs it.

Thanks for entertaining me and my crazy quest for a sub MOA M1a.
 

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A Sadlak spring guide will make the rifle cycle smoother and more evenly, which tends to make the shooter more accurate.

Back the gas lock down to its proper position and tap the cylinder forward so that it is tight against the lock. Install the piston and plug, tighten to 15 ft-lbs. Same procedure whether or not the gas cylinder is unitized. Skip the shims.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Your quest is possible but quite difficult. Been there done that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A Sadlak spring guide will make the rifle cycle smoother and more evenly, which tends to make the shooter more accurate.

Back the gas lock down to its proper position and tap the cylinder forward so that it is tight against the lock. Install the piston and plug, tighten to 15 ft-lbs. Same procedure whether or not the gas cylinder is unitized. Skip the shims.
Wouldn't that alow the gas cylinder to vibrate more and not support the front band against the shoulder of the barrel?
 

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Welcome to,the forum from Texas. There is a lot of knowledge here. ;)
 

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OP,

I ditched MY Archangel stock and put mine in a JAE and shot me these last Sunday; but it is a work in progress for sure!
450819
 

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Wouldn't that alow the gas cylinder to vibrate more and not support the front band against the shoulder of the barrel?
The gas lock is what holds everything in place. That is why the threads are so large. The way to keep the gas cylinder from vibrating is to keep it tight against the lock.
If you want to use the stock to minimize barrel vibration and whip, have the front band unitized to the gas cylinder. Keep in mind that this requires the stock to create draw pressure.

Shims are pretty much garbage. They are so thin and I'll fitting that the front band instantly distorts them. Don't confuse them with the crush washer used with the Sage chassis. That replaces the front band and creates a proper fit from the barrel shoulder to the gas plug.

The only way to keep the front band from moving is to unitize it to the gas cylinder. Shims may minimize longitudinal movement of the front band, but they still allow lateral movement.
 

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The wife has been gone for a month and a half now hiking the Appalachian trail
OK , since you asked.

You crazy thinking 'bout your rifle wit the ol lady gone hiking...

I'd be at every "tiddy" bar nightly, wit my friends, this side of the "Big Muddy" if'in my ol lady decided to go take a hike..:LOL:
 

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I don't have data to prove it, but I am confident the Sadlak gas piston tightened my groups on my M1A. Not sure why. Better harmonics? I also swapped out the factory guide and spring with Sadlak, so there were a few variables added all at once. The rifle definitely shot better after the upgrade, but not by parts that I would think could change accuracy.
 
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