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As mentioned don't worry about the small hash marks on the elevation drum or the wind drum** as well. Once establishing a zero, preferred is 100yd. zero, count the clicks upward to gain the bullet impact you are after. Someone mentioned to take a pair of pliers and put a piece of tape/cloth on the elevation drum and flat bladed screw driver and tighten that screw to prevent it from coming loose upon shooting so the rack/aperture won't drift downward on recoil. Those small numbers and marks are difficult to see and depend on the feel and sound to determine how much you are going up or down with the elevation drum. In a rainy day in the dark those numbers and marks are useless. For precision shooting the 6 o'clock hold will give you that more than a Navy hold simply because you can't distinguish just where the post is in the black target bulls eye. Both are black and how much you are up or down or left or right can't be determined with Navy hold. Take a slight line of white between top of post and 6 o'clock on the bulls eye and you can determine whether high or low, left or right and correct accordingly. Navy type hold is for obtaining a hit on enemy, center of mass if you will, but you are shooting at paper targets, big difference. Using the 6 o'clock hold will show marked improvement with something like 20 rounds doing so. Just a suggestion. (you have one of if not the best mechanical sight systems on any military type rifle.)

** The hash marks just below the sight should be centered with the actual sight mark, some call this mechanical zero. You may well have to move the front sight to correspond with that situation, again mechanical zero. By centering the rear sight you have ability to adjust for wind same amount in either direction.
 
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