M14 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started a new project yesterday. The receiver is a brand new stripped "M-21" type from Bula Defense. Serial number is 30XXX and it has the removable scope rail. Overall the receiver looks fantastic, and appears to be of excellent quality and dimensions.

For me, when I build up a rifle from stripped receivers, I like to install the bolt stop first. I find that placing the receiver with the ring down against my solid bench I get really good pin travel with minimal effort. I've installed bolt stop pins on assembled rifles before and of course it's OK, but nothing beats that solid bench under the receiver ring for providing the resistance for positive pin travel with little effort.

What I should have done before attempting the bolt stop installation was de-grease the receiver, but I didn't. That's why it has somewhat of a marbled appearance in the first few photos.

At any rate, with the receiver ring against my bench, I added a few drops of lubricating oil to the pin holes and a piece of tape along the side of the receiver. The oil will assist the pin in traveling through the holes and the tape will help prevent the receiver's finish from getting marred when I inevitably "bounce" the punch off the pin and miss the punch and hit my fingers instead.....always happens a couple times to me!

For the bolt stop, I chose a NIW "extended bolt stop" from SEI for this build. The build concept is a scout-type "Walter Mitty" rifle that I will not be afraid to shoot the proverbial $#%! out of. The bolt stop was purchased from Fulton Armory, and came with a pin and spring.

Problem #1...... during install, and despite placing the receiver ring on the bench I had to use an incredible amount of force to get the pin going. Eventually the pin that came with the kit mushroomed and then broke. Well let me tell you what a major PITA it is to get the broken pin out of the receiver when this happens!

Something is not right here........

Problem #2..... repeat of problem #1.......that's right, two pins broke!! WTF!!??

Problem #3..... is sort of related to problems one and two because if you look closely at the photos of the receiver's bolt stop pin tangs you'll see the front hole of the forward tang is not machined enough to allow for proper reversal punching of the bolt stop pin. Let me tell you, that's a real pisser offer right there!!

Long story short, both of those pins were of commercial manufacture and were ever so slightly "too thick," which if you look closely at the photo showing the initial insertion you can see quite a lot of compression on that roll pin. Thankfully these are roll pins and can be "crunched," but they can only take so much. Pin number three was authentic USGI and slid right in as designed to do.

Anyway, with a little bit of ingenuity, leaning on some old experience, a lot of cussing, and a few beers....viola! Step number one is complete. The SEI extended bolt stop is installed and functions correctly.

Stay tuned for the barrel install.......should be great fun!

Cheers!
--Brian

Wood Trigger Air gun Bicycle part Bumper


Wood Gas Auto part Art Metal


Bumper Finger Musical instrument accessory Thumb Nail


Hand Gesture Wood Finger Material property


Hand Finger Bumper Thumb Automotive exterior
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
876 Posts
I'm pretty sure SEI does recommend shaving down the pin about 1/2 way down the length in order to get it to install easier. When I did mine, I didn't do it, but it did go in without a ton of effort. I can't remember if I ordered a pin separate, or if it came with the bolt stop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jersey Devil

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,961 Posts
Hya JD, did you ever notice that lots of used bolt stops come with the pin "sheered off" ? Or at least they used to... They came off demilled receivers and I'd swear someone just took a screwdriver and pried them off.
GI receivers are the same, front hole of front boss is not machined like the rear hole of the rear boss. It IS a royal pain to remove one of those. Luckily I've only mushroomed 1 that I had to remove using a thinner roll pin punch and going in from the front of the receiver..
The member here who sells the pin kits,, his pins are perfect. I forget his name but can always be found searching the PX. Complete pin kit for like $7
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,961 Posts
PS, when I used to contact Gus Fisher years ago he suggested to bevel just the tip of the pin, Once you get it started the tension (roll) pin will compress.
I also (forget who suggested this one) use a toothpick and grease from one of the butt stock kits and grease the inside of the 2 bosses.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,511 Posts
I always compress pins and sand them to almost fit all the way into the dog-ears with the last bit unaltered. Makes for a very pleasant fitting roll pin. I am always paranoid of breaking a dog-ear. Hasn't happened yet, and I don't ever want it to.

Can't wait to see the rest of the build!

Tony.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
22,901 Posts
Excellent photos.
Been there, done that. Part of the learning curve. This ain't no AR as has been said a gazillion times. I like to take the pins and chuck them up in a drill that is in my bench vice and half at a time reduce the OD of the pin with a flat file while it is spinning and then polish it with crocus cloth before installation. I have found that if I make sure the pins will easily slide through the bolt stop, they will go through the receiver dogs.

That front hole in the receiver can be a bugger to get something small enough to remove pins. Trick is to do it right the first time so the pin can live happily ever after.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,961 Posts
The one pin I've had issues with and prolly my own fault is the stripper clip guide pin. I hold it up to light to make sure the hole in the guide and the receiver are lined up, but several times still end up buggering the pin. When I ordered several of those pin kits I posted the link to, I asked Echo if I could purchase several of the clip guide pins and he accommodated me.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
22,901 Posts
The one pin I've had issues with and prolly my own fault is the stripper clip guide pin. I hold it up to light to make sure the hole in the guide and the receiver are lined up, but several times still end up buggering the pin. When I ordered several of those pin kits I posted the link to, I asked Echo if I could purchase several of the clip guide pins and he accommodated me.
I have found with the clip guide pin insertion, if you make sure the left side of the guide is flush with the receiver, the hole will stay lined up. Another solution would be to insert a small punch from the bottom and push it out as you tap in the pin from the top.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,684 Posts
Long story short, both of those pins were of commercial manufacture and were ever so slightly "too thick," which if you look closely at the photo showing the initial insertion you can see quite a lot of compression on that roll pin. Thankfully these are roll pins and can be "crunched," but they can only take so much. Pin number three was authentic USGI and slid right in as designed to do.
haha.... same thing happened to me on one of my builds! Well, I guess it wasn't funny at the time, but I did eventually sand down the roll pin ever so slightly and got it together.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,961 Posts
I have found with the clip guide pin insertion, if you make sure the left side of the guide is flush with the receiver, the hole will stay lined up. Another solution would be to insert a small punch from the bottom and push it out as you tap in the pin from the top.
I use a correct size long pin punch to line it up (never tried inserting and leaving it in from the bottom, will try that next time, thanks) but somehow,, I guess, dat der pin just don't like me... :oops:
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey friends!
Thank you for the comments, suggestions, nice words, and support!
My apologies for not replying to each one individually, but it's been a hell of a week!

The next step for me is the barrel install. I'd like to use a Bula 19.25-inch chrome lined barrel, which I received from Jeff @ BDS a few years ago. After thoroughly cleaning the receiver and barrel threads I hand tightened the barrel and came up with a timing that I wish was just a tad better, but I'd rather have more meat on the shoulder to play with then have to use a barrel ring of course.

I'm exploring some options to take a very small amount of metal off the shoulder, but don't have access to a lathe unfortunately. A few years ago, I had a similar situation and used a method that was a little too "bubba" for my liking. I ended up removing a bit too much material and IRON WORKER had to bail me out of the dilemma by fabricating a barrel ring for me.....thanks yet again, Pat C!!

So, at any rate, I'd love to hear some thoughts as to how those of you that face a similar situation remedy it.

Thanks as always!
--Brian

Wood Metal Gas Fixture Auto part


Wood Bumper Hardwood Automotive exterior Auto part


Bumper Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Wood Rim Font Publication


Wood Tints and shades Publication Rectangle Wood stain
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,978 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks to all whom have responded.

An update: I just placed an order online for the proper 28mm glass hole cutting drill bit and the sandpaper to polish the chamber......many thanks to Art and Pat for their suggestions. I also started to sort through my stash of new Bula parts and organized them for this build. Exciting times for sure, stay tuned!!

Also many thanks to Tony for offering to trim the shoulder back!! I'm going to try an in-house solution first, but will let you know for sure either way in a few days.....thanks for your offer, Tony!!

Thanks very much for your interest.
Cheers!!
--Brian
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,675 Posts
Thanks to all whom have responded.

An update: I just placed an order online for the proper 28mm glass hole cutting drill bit and the sandpaper to polish the chamber......many thanks to Art and Pat for their suggestions. I also started to sort through my stash of new Bula parts and organized them for this build. Exciting times for sure, stay tuned!!

Also many thanks to Tony for offering to trim the shoulder back!! I'm going to try an in-house solution first, but will let you know for sure either way in a few days.....thanks for your offer, Tony!!

Thanks very much for your interest.
Cheers!!
--Brian
I have an 800 grit flex hone for chamber polishing. Want to borrow it?
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top