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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Any reason not to? Definitely want to go with the m25 rec single lug in jae gen3. In California so the jae is the way to go without the need for a bullet button.
Any advice would be welcome.
Too bad I missed the LRB group buy.GI6
I would send out to be headspaced, but assemble myself.
 

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No reason at all. I think you may be a little confused or I may be mistaken and forgive me if I am wrong. When you say you are going to send it out to be headspaced that means the barrel will be installed, the chamber finished reamed and the bolt lapped in. Is that what you are referring to? It would be pointless to have a gunsmith do this work and then dismantle it then send it back to you. That service is typically know as a barreled action #1, referring to the LRB website. Personally I started building my own last summer and since then have put together 6 actions working on another. It is a great feeling of accomplishment when you squeeze of the first round.
If you plan on getting a JAE there really is no need for a rear lug unless at some point in the future you may consider placing the action in another stock that you are going to bed the rifle and use a torque screw for the lug. The JAE from what I understand does not have any provisions to screw the rear lug to the stock. Did they make that change in the gen III? I'll have to take a look at the new gen three and see what changes were made. Sounds like you want a top of the line set up! May I suggest you take a look at the krieger barrel line. They are, by most considered the top of the line barrels along with douglas and obermeyer. I would check out sadlak for an op rod spring guide as well as there tin piston.
If you have a smith screw the barrel onto the receiver lap the bolt and finish ream the chamber you wont have to spend to much money not specialty tools at that point. A good gas lock tool and castle nut tool are about all you will need aside from what most have already in a tool box.
Good luck and ask away with questions, many of us here have put together a few as well as few major smith that have built hundred if not thousands of M14's.
 

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I went with a non lugged M25 and glad I did, stock options are more forthcoming without it. I've switched from a JAE to a Sage Mod 1 which I couldn't do with a lug.

You have the right idea of having the barrel and bolt installed then assemble the rest yourself.

Where in CA are you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I am new to building. At present I am building my cost sheet. Based upon price, quality, and availability of parts it looks like multiple purchases from multiple manufacturers and vendors.
The JAE was already ordered with Shot Show discount and won't be delivered until July or August. The gen3 is lighter with better weight distribution.
Looks like the m25 rec from lrb will be early summer as well. (what I was thinking is single is actually non).
Barrel is undecided. Going 22' in. parkerized, just not sure about the importance of contour, lining, groove, twist, etc. I'm hoping to build something where my skills will be the only limiting factor.
Trigger groups seem scarce.

NoExpert - I'm in the San Fernando Valley. I love your sig vid. Baby pics?

Thank you for the corrections in my terminology. 82nd, thank you for saving me some cash. Been researching a build and somehow got it in my head that a gunsmith's skills would be needed for what I mistakenly referred to as headspacing.
 

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I'm over in Riverside and shoot at Angeles, if you need any help let me know. I have a couple tools and typically lots of time.

There's a few different images...

1) The striped McMillan M3A is my first build, started as an SA Inc. Standard and got morphed into that.

2) Parted it out and slowly put together the pieces laid out with my 22" barreled M25 while waiting for a JAE G2 and USO scope.

3) Then I got the JAE and my USO scope.

4) Then a barrel change to an 18.5" with a couple other small changes.

5)Finally a pile of parts as I'm currently prepping for a change up on the configuration.

Those pics cover about 7 years of changes since I first got into the M14 platform and are a small sample of the pics I have of the rifle(s) over the years. In a few weeks I'm hoping to have my rifle up and running again but with no scope for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Barrel length is an issue I've thought about. Any other reasons than mobility and looks? I'm gonna go irons only until I can prove to myself that the extra expense of a scope is warranted beyond aesthetics. What's your new configuration gonna be, and why, if you don't mind me asking?
 

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Barrel length is an issue I've thought about. Any other reasons than mobility and looks? I'm gonna go irons only until I can prove to myself that the extra expense of a scope is warranted beyond aesthetics. What's your new configuration gonna be, and why, if you don't mind me asking?
I went to 18.5" for a couple reasons, number one was 3 1/2" off the barrel equaled 9 inches and 5 pounds off the Pelican case it's now in. The 1720 fits in the back of my VW GTI without putting the seats down so it's out of sight completely. Also I only shoot out to about 800 yards on rare occasion and usually only 600 at Angeles, the 18.5" is more than capable of this range. Last reason, I just wanted something a little different.

If you buy a scope for aesthetics I think you'd be the first person I've ever known to do so.

New config will be a Sage Mod 1 and hopefully a new USO SN-3 1.8-10X37. Main reason is just the stock change has dropped 4 pounds. Later when I shoot out this barrel I'm planning to go to a standard contour 18/18.5 to drop more weight.

This is how it's sitting right now...

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Aesthetics may have been the wrong word. No disrespect intended towards anyone.
Always comes back to weight it seems. How much will the barrel save you after the change?
Outta sight is a good thing. GI6
 

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Carry a 20+ pound rifle on a 4 hour hike and you'll understand around the first hour into the hike why it always comes back to weight. GI7

The barrel change will drop about 1.5 pounds. If I can get the rifle under 15 pounds loaded with scope, bipod, sling and foregrip I'll be ecstatic.

Definitely master the iron sights before moving to a scope, if that's the direction you decide to go. I shot irons for about a year before scoping my first rifle. For me it got a lot easier with the scope but then I'm right handed and left eye dominant so having an image beamed to my eye vs. looking through an aperture made a huge difference for my weak right eye.
 

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Carry a 20+ pound rifle on a 4 hour hike and you'll understand around the first hour into the hike why it always comes back to weight. GI7

The barrel change will drop about 1.5 pounds. If I can get the rifle under 15 pounds loaded with scope, bipod, sling and foregrip I'll be ecstatic.

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Or,..... how about carrying the 20 pounder for 4 hours, and dropping ten pounds of weight off your body ( less to carry also) and at the same time, turn ten more pounds of fat, to muscle. Then the weight issue would be solved , No ?....heh heh heh........
 

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Or,..... how about carrying the 20 pounder for 4 hours, and dropping ten pounds of weight off your body ( less to carry also) and at the same time, turn ten more pounds of fat, to muscle. Then the weight issue would be solved , No ?....heh heh heh........
I've talked to a lot of guys about that and they all call BS. A heavy rifle is a heavy rifle regardless of how in shape you are. You can say hit the gym all you want, a heavy rifle is going to fatigue a person faster than a lighter rifle, just the way of it.
 
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