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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hi,
Well, got the #31 Carbide drill bit in and drilled/reamed for the Colt Taper Pin, and that Gas Block is not going anywhere!

When my Diverter gets here I should have what I need to finish the upper.

Parts for the Lower are in the mail so it is coming along anyway.

Originally intended to just get a few parts along and along, but now I want to finish it and shoot it!

That's the way it goes I guess!:cool:

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Hi,
I was on another Forum talking to another Builder and he brought up a point...

That I might want to leave a small gap between the rail and the receiver for stress factors...

Such as heat expansion, slings, installed lights, ect.

After some more research, decided that might be a good thing and went back and created a small gap.

Should be good now.

Just something one might think about, that I didn't!:cool:


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Hi,
I was on another Forum talking to another Builder and he brought up a point...

That I might want to leave a small gap between the rail and the receiver for stress factors...

Such as heat expansion, slings, installed lights, ect.

After some more research, decided that might be a good thing and went back and created a small gap.

Should be good now.

Just something one might think about, that I didn't!:cool:


View attachment 484694
My forends/ /hand guards are free floating and made of the same material as the receiver. If there is a problem with thermal expansion, I don't know how it would cause a problem unless I have something bridging the two pieces. Something I wouldn't do
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Hi,
I guess it is just another thing to do to maybe keep one part from effecting another.

In my World heat expansion is probably not a factor.

However, the sling tension was a point and maybe lights installed?

I'm still building, so did it while easy.

Seems some rail makers mention it and some don't?
 

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Hi,
I guess it is just another thing to do to maybe keep one part from effecting another.

In my World heat expansion is probably not a factor.

However, the sling tension was a point and maybe lights installed?

I'm still building, so did it while easy.

Seems some rail makers mention it and some don't?
It will make a difference on follow up shots you are mounted to barrel nut which is a transition piece, chamber is in the barrel not the receiver so heat, and extraction can cause a shift. . Also check barrel nut after 100 rounds this is not a 223 have had correctly torqued nuts loosen on an Alexander Arms upper ,what made me check point of impact was changing with each shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Hi,
Sorry, yes it is a 5.56 Barrel.

I keep forgetting a lot of these Pistols are built 300 Blk Out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Hi,
Still waiting on my enhanced Bolt Stop, and decided to make a Slave Pin for the Disco and Trigger install.

Makes the install super easy and easy enough to make.

Made this from a junk drill bit at .154 and works great.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hi,

I had a little problem with my Ambi Mag Release install this morning.

The Mags were hard to slip in, actually the Magpuls would be hard to go in and the metal mags would hardly go in at all and of course would not drop free.

After scratching my head and going down a couple of wrong rabbit holes...

Figured out it was the trigger guard end, protruding into the Lower Magwell just a bit to far.

Have the same Magpul Trigger Guard on my Spikes Tactical Lower and no problem but...

Pulled the TG and a little filing and sanding and everything ran smooth as silk with both Mags.

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Hi,
Installed the Pivot Pin and thought I would show a tool I picked up to make the install very easy...

Compared without it, which is an exercise in frrustration and detents circling Pluto!

The tool is a rod with a hole and the hole is lined up, spring and detent installed and pushed in with a punch and the the rod turned which captures everything under tension.

Then the Pivot Pin goes in behind it and pushes the Install Pin out and the Pivot Pin is captured and installed.

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Discussion Starter · #74 · 21 h ago




Hi,
Thought I would show what I use to do a Bolt Catch Install.

The slave pin is made out of 3/32" welding rod.

Don't know, but a piece of coat hanger, would probably work also.

The roll pin punches come together, one is a starter punch and the other is a roll pin punch to finish setting the roll pin.

The bent welding rod is used like slave pin, works great!

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Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
Hi,
Well my used DD Fixed sights came in and glad I went that way.

The Sellers Rail must of been off somewhat as the Windage was set way to the side.

See how good I do when I sight in?

So far happy and will add a few more things along but finished for now!


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I like the UTG "Super Slim" A2 rear sight they sell, This is the one that is just the sight with no carry handle, it is actually very good quality, I also like the UTG fixed front sight as well. One thing I like is they don't have big knobs to hold them on.
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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hi,
It seems UTG has upped their Game quite a bit here lately...

I actually looked at those and then found the used DD Sites.

Saw a Vid where a SEAL shows his M4 set up and is actually using one of the rail handle rear site set up with the handle part cut off?

Guess he liked that set up which admittedly the UTG and DD sites both seem to copy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Hi,
Well finally got to the Range to sight in and test for function.

The people at BA told me the barrel would run correctly with a carbine buffer and that was what I saw shooting my Handloads.

Need to shoot it some more but thought I would give a report for anyone looking at a similar build.

The DD Sights were set as close to the middle as I could figure at the bench, and...

Only needed a slight adjust on front sight for elevation.

Over all, very pleased, and think I will enjoy it better than a commercial build!
 
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