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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to get some recommendations on who to send my Rem model 700 to for some accuracy and cosmetic work.

It is a Rem Model 700 VL, I would like to have the action trued and lugs lapped if necessary, eventually drop it in a McMillian fiberglass stock, bed it, and either install a new barrel or flute the factory barrel and reinstall it.
 

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You mentioned having the action 'trued' and the lugs lapped. These are normally done when rebarreling ~ with the barrel pulled, anyway; do you plan on rebarreling the action?

Mike Bryant is an excellent gunsmith; so is Greg Tannell. Both specialize in this kind of work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You mentioned having the action 'trued' and the lugs lapped. These are normally done when rebarreling ~ with the barrel pulled, anyway; do you plan on rebarreling the action?

Mike Bryant is an excellent gunsmith; so is Greg Tannell. Both specialize in this kind of work.
I might have them stick a different barrel on there, at the very least I plan on having the factory barrel fluted and refinished.
 

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+1 for using Mike Bryant. Mike has built a number of terrific rifles for me, most are Remington 700 based custom rifles.

I have used him for building a couple of tactical rifles, benchrest rifles and hunting rifles.

Mike does nice work and his rifles shoot... very small groups.
 

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Try Mark Chanlyn at Rocky Mountain Rifles in Lyons, Co. He used to be Boots Obermeyers understudy for many years and makes his own barrels now. He's has designed and is making his own action now. I have one rifle with an Obermeyer R5 1 in 11 and 2 of his 6 groove 1 in 11's, all 30 cals (2 in 7.62 and 1 in 06). You can't tell the difference at the target. They are equals. The 06 is a much heavier contour but is fluted. I like all three.

As far as truing up a receiver and lapping the locking lugs you may be surprised if you use the same barrel over again after doing that. Many Remingtons that shoot really good an 1" or better at a 100 will not do that good after the receiver is trued and the lugs lapped because Remington used to chamber them after fitting and contouring the barrel. When you true them up the fit is then different and bore and chamber may not be as true as you would like. It happened to me once upon a time. I was doing the same as you and just went ahead and had a new barrel made, contoured to my specs and it has been better than ever. But I was surprised the original barrel was off that much. I still have it to use as a handy jack handle.
 

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As far as truing up a receiver and lapping the locking lugs you may be surprised if you use the same barrel over again after doing that. Many Remingtons that shoot really good an 1" or better at a 100 will not do that good after the receiver is trued and the lugs lapped because Remington used to chamber them after fitting and contouring the barrel. When you true them up the fit is then different and bore and chamber may not be as true as you would like. It happened to me once upon a time. I was doing the same as you and just went ahead and had a new barrel made, contoured to my specs and it has been better than ever. But I was surprised the original barrel was off that much. I still have it to use as a handy jack handle.
My thoughts exactly, and the reason I asked if the OP was planning to have the rifle rebarreled. In all honesty, there isn't much point in screwing the factory barrel back on once the action is blueprinted. It's the equivalent of buying a Formula 1 car and then having a Chevy Cavalier engine installed.

The additional cost to have a good quality aftermarket barrel installed is really not that great in the grand scheme of things. The gunsmith performing the action work will doubtless tell him that when he's contacted about the action work. If the OP can't afford a new aftermarket barrel and the cost of blueprinting, that's one thing, and I can certainly understand that. I'd suggest either delaying the project until he can afford the barrel, or perhaps (gasp) sell something he isn't using in order to finance the barrel. Another consideration is that a factory barrel won't screw back on once the threads are recut - not without some additional work. The receiver threads will be a larger diameter than when the rifle left the factory.

And, while he's about it, consider either a trigger job or an aftermarket trigger. An older Remington factory trigger can be adjusted to a very respectable pull, or a Rifle Basix trigger isn't that expensive, either.

There are dozens of really good gunsmiths out there offering blueprinting services today. Just ask enough questions to insure that he's going to recut the receiver threads by the single point method, rather than just chasing them with a tap. Using a tap simply follows the existing threads, and really doesn't gain you very much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My thoughts exactly, and the reason I asked if the OP was planning to have the rifle rebarreled. In all honesty, there isn't much point in screwing the factory barrel back on once the action is blueprinted. It's the equivalent of buying a Formula 1 car and then having a Chevy Cavalier engine installed.

The additional cost to have a good quality aftermarket barrel installed is really not that great in the grand scheme of things. The gunsmith performing the action work will doubtless tell him that when he's contacted about the action work. If the OP can't afford a new aftermarket barrel and the cost of blueprinting, that's one thing, and I can certainly understand that. I'd suggest either delaying the project until he can afford the barrel, or perhaps (gasp) sell something he isn't using in order to finance the barrel. Another consideration is that a factory barrel won't screw back on once the threads are recut - not without some additional work. The receiver threads will be a larger diameter than when the rifle left the factory.

And, while he's about it, consider either a trigger job or an aftermarket trigger. An older Remington factory trigger can be adjusted to a very respectable pull, or a Rifle Basix trigger isn't that expensive, either.

There are dozens of really good gunsmiths out there offering blueprinting services today. Just ask enough questions to insure that he's going to recut the receiver threads by the single point method, rather than just chasing them with a tap. Using a tap simply follows the existing threads, and really doesn't gain you very much.
I was already considering a new barrel anyway, now you have just given me a good excuse for the wife.

Is there a market for factory take off barrels? This barrel is barley even broke in, it has right around 100 rounds out of it.
 

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I was already considering a new barrel anyway, now you have just given me a good excuse for the wife.

Is there a market for factory take off barrels? This barrel is barley even broke in, it has right around 100 rounds out of it.
You can usually peddle factory take-off barrels for a few bucks, depending on what they are and condition. A lot of people (me included) have been known to buy a complete rifle for projects and sell the stock and barrel to help defray the cost of the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can usually peddle factory take-off barrels for a few bucks, depending on what they are and condition. A lot of people (me included) have been known to buy a complete rifle for projects and sell the stock and barrel to help defray the cost of the project.
That is what I am thinking of doing with this rifle. I bought it about 10 years ago and haven't shot it much. It has a factory laminate stock on it, which I should be able to get a few dollars out of, and a bull barrel.
 

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That is what I am thinking of doing with this rifle. I bought it about 10 years ago and haven't shot it much. It has a factory laminate stock on it, which I should be able to get a few dollars out of, and a bull barrel.
I would recommend either Ebay or Gunbroker. Ebay is probably the cheapest to list and has for me always gotten the most action in bidding on barrels. However, you may want to keep the original barrel for a short time, if you like the contour so that whatever barrel maker you get can duplicate the contour when the new barrel is made. This isn't an issue if you are going for a new stock at the same time, but is if you are going to use the old stock for any time at all.

I found that the person I use likes to make his barrels a heck of a lot heavier and longer than I prefer. Since I have a couple of pre-64 model 70's in marksman configuration, I had him contour one as an original and the other I allowed him to make heavier but we fluted it, both were 24". On my Remington, I preferred the original PSS contour but cut to 24 inches rather than 26. I can understand the longer tube if one is shooting a magnum but the 7.62 case will get a total burn in less than 24" with virtually any of todays slower powders and the 30-06 just completes it's burn with 4350 in 24". So there isn't a lot of reason (in my opinion) for a longer tube, unless someone just prefer's it for some reason. To me the rifles are heavy enough to start with so anywhere I can cut weight is a plus.

One other thing that no one has mentioned that should be done to the action at the time of blueprinting and barreling is to consider going to a Sako extractor system. The original Remington extractor is riveted in place and is fairly fragile. A Sako system requires milling the bolt but once installed and with a spare extractor and spring you could replace it in the field easily if needed, though you will probably never need to. It's a fairly common modification. The other moderately common mods that people opt for are a larger bolt handle or a knob modification that will help in rapid fire, if more than one shot is needed. That should be done prior to barrelling also if desired.
 

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I vote for GA Precision - www.gaprecision.net

Depending on where you are in Ketucky, they're not far from you in Kansas City, MO.
 

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Old-ish thread but I'd recommend Mark at Short Action Customs. He and I used to work together a few years ago but I still send him my own guns from time to time. He does some of the best bolt knob conversions I've ever seen and while he doesn't use CNC for everything like Dixon does, he's work is still VERY clean and his prices are competitive.

http://shortactioncustoms.com/
 
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