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What do YOU think of using flashing metal as bedding on a plastic stock??

  • Cheesy, cheap, no count bandaid for losers!

    Votes: 41 34.5%
  • Low cost bedding improvement for a thrifty fix.

    Votes: 78 65.5%
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you do that but let the metal extend higher than the top of the stock and fold the excess over so the receiver sits on the excess, when you lock up the trigger guard, you'll likely see a definite increase in draw pressure. Just limit that extra material so that it extends from in front of the bolt release cutout forward on both sides.

As suggested, I had to try it. My "wet noodle" plastic SA stock has slop around the lugs and weak draw on the ferrul. Why not try a 30 minute fix and maybe improve it before I go walnut or laminate with bedding.

Here's where I began...



The shape taking form...


Action went in tight!! A lot more draw... may have promise.


Main concern now is the angle of my sear and a possible double tap. Will have to load just a couple in the mag until I find out the hard way. Only range time will tell. We'll see!!

Sooo, whattayathink...
Cheesy cheap no count bandaid or Low cost bedding improvement??
 

NSRA
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Concept has merit, I think anyway. How is the TG lock up on the shim material? May be a little more work , but an idea is to inlet the shims along the lower edge and glass over for a smoother finish. It might work and really not that much work invovled. Keep us informed.
 

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Of course I'm biased, but that technique will tighten up a loose fitting stock, and, with the foldover of the metal, increase the draw pressure. I would suggest that the foldover part be started forward of the section that extends down next to the receiver legs rather than right above it. That way, you're creating more of a fulcrum rather than just increasing the vertical dimension of the stock. And that should reduce the risk of a double-tap, something I've never had happen. Also consider that with a stock/receiver fit that allows some fore-aft play, bending some of the leg shim around the front or back of the receiver leg can take up the slack, as it looks like SmokyBaer has already done.

As I've often said, this is no substitute for a good bedding job, but it can get you part of the way.
 

Eye Master
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It's a shim, which is legit. Lots of guys have used shims to get a better draw.

The only thing cheesy is that while it works for you, that thickness of shim won't work for every application, and last I heard, roof flashing does not come in multiple thicknesses, so the solution is somewhat unique.

That said, if it works, you might look at buying shim stock on rolls, and having it laser cut to the exact shape, and selling shim kits with two each of 3 or 4 different thicknesses. Might be a market there.
 

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I've been using a .02" thick sheet of aluminum from Tru-Value Hardware. It seems to work well with a variety of stocks and doesn't mind bending. A much thinner alternative is a section of beer can, and more fun to obtain, too.GI2
 

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If the receiver/stock fit had a lot of side to side slop, and the trigger group fit didn't have enough draw, I don't see this as being a bad "fix it". Actual range time will tell the difference. dozier
 

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M1all The Way, is this what you're talking about?

Trim away the area outside the red dashes, leaving the fold over only forward?
 

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M1all The Way, is this what you're talking about?

Trim away the area outside the red dashes, leaving the fold over only forward?
I haven't trimmed quite that much. I start from just forward of where the front of the receiver leg is. But what you have marked might work too. Essentially, you're trying to raise that area of the stock so that you've got a see-saw action with the fulcrum at the shim. The heel is lifted off the stock by the fulcrum raising the receiver. The upper section of the trigger guard grabs onto the back section of the receiver leg and pulls it down as the trigger guard locks up. The heel goes down too, and at the other end of the barreled action, the gas cylinder/front band go up, pulling the ferrule with it and giving that tension.

Another thing to consider, though, is this. If you're getting a good snug insertion of the receiver into the stock with the shims in place, the bottom edge of the receiver tends to hang up on the top edge of the shim. The fold-over acts as a smooth guide in front and the receiver legs are already inside the shims in back. Too much of a gap in the middle might make assembly more difficult, though it's not something you'd do very much. I also used the longer fold-over because I started the experiment on a wood stock and didn't want the fulcrum section to be so small that the wood would easily compress under it.
 

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Beats the crap out of a cereal box top. I'm definitely going to try this, thanks for sharing!!
 

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As someone who spends a lot of time working with and machining aluminum the only problem I see is the aluminum will eventually extrude out where it has heavy pressure especially flashing which is a soft alloy Steel shim material would be a better choice MSC industrial has it on rolls in various thickness 1 roll will probably do about 50 M1A's! find shim stock here :
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000152125443
 

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As someone who spends a lot of time working with and machining aluminum the only problem I see is the aluminum will eventually extrude out where it has heavy pressure especially flashing which is a soft alloy Steel shim material would be a better choice MSC industrial has it on rolls in various thickness 1 roll will probably do about 50 M1A's! find shim stock here :
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000152125443
First off, welcome to TFL. Every new member brings something to contribute to the Community's knowledge!

Thanks for the tip. Is that cold flow you're describing? While the receiver is a good deal harder than the aluminum, I was concerned that a wood stock would be the first to compress, and perhaps the same would be true for a synthetic, especially the current SAI synthetic that SmokyBaer is working to improve.
 

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Thanks, I've been lurking and learning for a while ...finally decided to man up and post a little I only hope I can give back 1/10 of what I've already learned

On the aluminum, there are a bunch of different alloys ranging from dead soft (T0)to some that are quite hard(T6) flashing type material would be among the softer variety because it is made to be easily formed into a shape so after a while in a compressive fit it will actually become thinner and probably wider (has to go somewhere) plus the abrasion resistance will be next to nothing I think it will work just won't last very long

As far as the aluminum vs. the wood I'm not sure which one would win walnut could quite possibly be harder than aluminum flashing I have a book about race car sheet metal fabrication and the guys shows hardwood tools he has fashioned to beat/form aluminum into particular shapes he was using 1100 series aluminum which is also very soft
 

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Question - I thought placing aluminum next to steel could cause corrosion?

From what I can remember, it can cause or causes a galvanic reaction, the aluminum being like an anode and the steel being like a cathode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Question - I thought placing aluminum next to steel could cause corrosion?
Now THAT would be an unexpected case of the . Thanks for the warning!! Will keep a close eye and most likely go with steel if results from the range go well this afternoon.

Earlier was a suggestion to glass it in but looks like this aluminum is way soft anyways. At the very least, it's a good starting point for shim thickness on my rifle. Flatten out my flashing and use it as a pattern. Find some steel that size, blue it and glue it.
BIGTHUMPUP
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Range results in!!!

Hard for me to believe but the cheapo flashing fix made a huge difference. My previous groups at 100 yards were 2.5 to 3 inch. This group is just about 2 inches. If not counting that flyer on the left, it'd only be one inch wide! This is the best my old Scout has ever done. Whooda guessed??

 

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Hard for me to believe but the cheapo flashing fix made a huge difference. My previous groups at 100 yards were 2.5 to 3 inch. This group is just about 2 inches. If not counting that flyer on the left, it'd only be one inch wide! This is the best my old Scout has ever done. Whooda guessed??
Glad that's worked out for you! I wonder how it'd do with, say, Federal Gold Medal Match?
 

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...Flatten out my flashing and use it as a pattern. Find some steel that size, blue it and glue it. BIGTHUMPUP
In working with aluminum sheet, and probably thin steel that's bendable too, I've found this or something similar to be very helpful. It will flatten the material after you cut it, make straight sharp bends easily, and if you crimp the material while trying to get the action passed the shim and into the stock, you can flatten it out and start over.

As long as the fit of the action is tight, I'm not sure that subtle differences in the shim material matter much. The stock area around the action is going to flex a bit to compensate for extra tightness. Another thing to consider is that if the aluminum is going to mold itself under pressure, it'll take on the irregularities of both the receiver and the stock as it compresses between them. If that happens, I wonder if it'll create a non-slip grip between the two parts, keeping everything in place, essentially getting better with age (you know, like usGI2).
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Glad that's worked out for you! I wonder how it'd do with, say, Federal Gold Medal Match?
When I returned from the range, there was a box at the door. My FGMMs have arrived. I am not touching the Scout until the next range trip so I can see what "the good stuff" will do. Read on the box about the velocities and the 168gr Sierra BTHP... this load looks like a twin for the load I developed for my SSG69 years ago. I'm gonna take it out too. That was THE best shooting cloverleaf groups I ever shot with a 308. If they shoot as good as my old reloads, I'll be ordering a case!! BEERCHUG1
 
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