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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wanted to toss some pics up and if someone learns something from it its a good thing. I will loosely chronicle my bedding a Springfield Super Match / rear lug receiver that is NOT threaded (yet) and pillar bed it into a McMillan stock.

Lets get started-

1) New never fired M1A Super match rifle~




2) A McMillan M14 stock.

The Mac stock I lucked into finding. I called McMillan and they had one "left over" in forest green color and factory inletted for my rear lug receiver.
I am guessing that Mac does not get a lot of orders for rear lug inletted stocks so it was my lucky day.

Note~ You will need a new stock ferrule, the MAC stock does NOT come with one so order one now unless you have one already

Out of the box-



Factory inletting-










Finish work for the McMillan stock is proper bedding and attachment of the front ferrule (VERY IMPORTANT), front sling attachment (easy) and butt plate install. The butt plate needs to be fitted a little. The stock has some of the stock filler spilled over into the recess where the butt plate sits. There was also some parting line glass from the mold halves that needed cleaned up. This is easily done with a hand file. I will set up and drill the angle hole for the rear sling attachment later. I drilled 2 holes for stainless steel screws to attach the front sling retainer. The opposite side of that will be milled out and a square piece of key stock ( 5/16 ) will be drilled & tapped and inserted into the slot.

Butt stock cleaned up a little~




Holes (I) drilled for front sling attachment~



Rear Hardware~




Front Ferrule~

This is an important item and consider it part of your foundation, if its screwed up count on problems down the road. McMillan does an EXCELLENT job on their stocks and inletting.
That being said we are all human and it warrants checking your stock for straightness, channel fit and squareness. No hurry and make sure its right before moving on.
I modded a standard stock ferrule to "NM" style with the added clearance. Some may make it larger or a different shape but the main task is clearance around the gas cylinder AND that its parallel and level to the stock once mounted. I modded my ferrule then steel bedded it after trial fit and checking for alignment. Once cured over night I used a hand file (rat-tail) to clear the stock and even it up with the steel ferrule. Cosmetics & clearance for your gas cylinder.


Modified Front~









This covers most of the stock initial fitting and whats needed to move on....

Once you have your stock hardware wrapped up you need to test fit your action in the stock. You want to make sure nothing is binding and you have clearance for bedding material where you want and need it. Since I am NOT using the trigger group to hold the action in place I want to make sure the alignment is correct that it WILL go together after bedding.


Front ferrule seated and action fits with no binding~

With the clearance you made in the front ferrule you should be able to wiggle / move around the gas cylinder up & down and side to side.
You do NOT want it rubbing or binding. Its fully seated and not sticking out or forward.





Action fits and trigger group lines up~

Test for mechanical function of hammer & trigger. You want to make sure the hammer does not follow the bolt forward when the bolt closes while the trigger is held to the rear. If it does your trigger group is likely to far away from the bolt. If so you need to remove material from the stock where the trigger group seats.

Per Mr.Gus Fisher:

Take a pair good dial calipers and put them inside the stock. You measure from the two small bedding surfaces for the rear of the trigger housing up to the top of the stock where the receiver heel sits. This distance on an M1 Garand or M14 is supposed to be NO MORE than 1.725" and may be as little as 1.700". On some Armscorp's and LRB receivers I have run across, I had to bring this distance down to 1.690" because parts of the receiver were not to spec. If the distance is OVER 1.725", then you have to cut/par a little wood off the two small bedding surfaces in the stock for the rear of the trigger housing, until the distances 1.725" or less.

Also~

This next one is a little hard to describe and understand. Take the trigger group out the stock and look at the stock between the two small bedding surfaces for the rear of the trigger housing. There is a groove between those two small bedding pads in the stock. Look for an indentation at the front of that groove. The indentation comes from the trigger hitting the stock when this groove is not cut high enough and does not allow the trigger to move enough so the sear can reset. It is easier to see the indent on a wood stock, though you may not see it on a wood or fiberglass stock. Put a little grease on the back of the trigger where it is just above the bottom of the trigger housing. There is a sort of a triangular shape there and grease the top of the triangle. Put the trigger housing back in the rifle and dry fire it a few times and then take the trigger housing out. If there is a grease spot left on the stock between the two small bedding pads, you have to cut at least the front of the groove higher so the trigger does not hit it.







Now that I am satisfied that my action fits correctly I did find one detail on my receiver that needed correction IMHO. My rear lug had VERY sharp edges on all 4 sides of the rear lug. This is similar to holding a chisel against the nice Devcon epoxy you are putting around it, not good. A few minutes on a 3M Beartex wheel gave me nice corner radii that leaves a nice round corner in your bedding. I will re-blue it later.

No threaded rear hole.....yet!

Stock SHARP rear lug~








The way it should have left the factory~







Once I fixed this little issue its time to layout your stock. Get a SHARP lead pencil and put your action into your stock. Use the sharp pencil to trace around your receiver on the top surface of the stock. Once you do this remove your action and use painters tape to tape close to the line. This just makes cleaning up excess epoxy easier and keeps it off the stock. I either use the trigger group or my fixture to hold it in place while doing the layout work.


Trace~



Traced Outline~

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Continued.....


Forgot to add above the difference in the standard stock Ferrule and the NM modded Ferrule.
A dremel tool and a small grinding point is what I used to shape it.

Stock USGI~




Modded to NM specs for clearance~






Painters Tape~






I also applied tape to the forearm top surface where the coat hanger makes contact and the sides which I used a Sharpie marker & marked the location I will place the wire. I am using .090 diameter wire and the next thing is to test fit it and see how the action lies. I used a new piece of coat hanger and positioned it where I marked on the stock for a test fit.

Wire up front~






Rear or heel of action with the wire up front~





I tried a few different diameters of wire and for my barrel the .090 or larger is what I needed. This will be a rear pillar / rear lug gun when finished. I will use a clamping fixture to hold the action in place while the bedding cures. Note that with a new piece of coat hanger wire all that is needed is hand pressure to seat the heel of the action to the stock. My fixture is just a piece of threaded rod bent like a "J" that hooks the action and a wing nut to snug it down. I am simply using hand pressure and NO WRENCH.

When I mentioned above that .090 wire is what I needed this is based off of the desired or target heel height of 1/2" above the stock for the correct amount of tension or pre-load.
I have tried a few versions of using straight wire and slightly bending one before inserting and seating the barrel and both end up sitting about the same heel height. If I bend a "V" in the wire it centers up nice. I like using a virgin straight wire and just seating my action. Since this is my 1st wire bedding job others with experience can chime in.

DO NOT RE-USE THE COAT HANGER WIRE. USE A NEW PIECE FOR YOUR ACTUAL BEDDING JOB.

Pull down fixture~

I prefer to use this method to pull down the receiver Vs using the trigger group.
I can control the force better using it and zero chance of having my trigger group stuck in place from Devcon.




In place~







I am pretty happy with how everything aligns and fits thus far.... A little more prep work.


These are the basic tools needed , minus a couple minor things I will mention. The picture sums it up. I am using Devcon steel putty. I personally like it the best of several I have used in the past. The Devcon steel putty stays where you put it and does not run. Its mechanical properties are excellent and its my 1st choice for bedding material. There are many others that I am sure work well but Devcon is my personal favorite. I have a new 1lb container and a partial container that is sitting next to the unopened one. You want to have enough epoxy to cover everything preferable in one shot. I have seen people do it in stages so what works for you is your call. I scribed a line in the rear lug pocket on the stock about 1/2" deep from the top. This is how far my rear lug projects on the receiver. Everything under that scribe mark and around it will be solid epoxy and a pillar through it at one point. I will need about a shot glass or more quantity just eyeballing the volume + whats needed to "butter" the horseshoe on top and around the receiver lugs and front section. Its better to have extra than not enough.


A picture is worth 1000 words, hopefully not all swearing....




My receiver is almost ready to go. I already cleaned it and removed the oil and any dirt. I filled the potential problems area's with plumbers putty. I am not sure what its made of but I have a container that is old enough to vote and its unchanged. Like a soft batch cookie I found cleaning the refrigerator whatever they put in there keeps it soft forever, spooky. My rear lug had a void that epoxy could seep through. I filled the entire void with plumbers putty. Its just roughed in now and I will smooth it up before applying the release agent. I use the "old reliable" KIWI neutral shoe polish. I use my fingers and rub ALL the exposed metal on the receiver inside and out, TWICE. I use a Q-tip rolled in polish to get the corners and places my sausage finger cant reach. You can see the milling / cutter marks on the sides of my receiver. These only appear bad and are more cosmetic than any issue to worry about. If you had any large voids I would fill them with plumbers putty or at a minimum hit it with release agent well. I have never had any problems using 2 coats of release agent on reasonable smooth surfaces.













Once I get a block of time I can be sure I will not be interrupted (IMPORTANT) I will mix epoxy and throw down the mud (Devcon).
The other items that are handy are a good supply of Q-tips, paper towels and liquid WD-40. Once I mix the Devcon and get it ready to apply I have my stock and action already in stand by. I will spread the Devcon to cover all areas that I want bedding material. Once this is done I will position my NEW .090 diameter coat hanger wire under the barrel and insert the action into the stock but not fully seated just yet. I have my clamping fixture at hand and ready. I will squeeze the action down to the stock by hand then attach my clamping fixture and snug the wing nut. Position the action the same way as your test fit. At this point you are basically done bedding and now you start cleaning up. Some guys like to wait 20 minutes or so but I am careful not to move the barreled action or disturb it. I start wiping the excess Devcon off with Q-tips, lots of them. Once you get the bulk off use the WD-40 on a Q-tip to clean up any excess on the stock and smooth the squeeze out areas. Under the stock by the receiver legs I just smooth the excess and will clean it up on the mill or use a dremel tool depending how fancy I want to be. You have a generous window to work before the Devcon sets up but its good to have your materials at hand. Get a trash can and ditch the cell phone.



More to follow..................
 

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GREAT thread. EXCELLENT pictures. I'm sure many forum members will get a better idea how to use the "coat hanger" wire from your pictures.

I was very glad you mentioned and showed rounding the bottom edges of the rear lug as you are absolutely correct they should leave the factory that way.

We also found that slight rounding of the corners on the vertical sides of the lug kept wood stocks from cracking especially on the corner by the left rear side and make it easier for the lug to go in and out of the glass. Now some folks leave the corners sharp but relieve the glass for these lug corners on fiberglass stocks. I prefer to round all the corners of the lug and that way never have to worry about a corner scraping glass and they always go in and out of the bedding nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GREAT thread. EXCELLENT pictures. I'm sure many forum members will get a better idea how to use the "coat hanger" wire from your pictures.

I was very glad you mentioned and showed rounding the bottom edges of the rear lug as you are absolutely correct they should leave the factory that way.

We also found that slight rounding of the corners on the vertical sides of the lug kept wood stocks from cracking especially on the corner by the left rear side and make it easier for the lug to go in and out of the glass. Now some folks leave the corners sharp but relieve the glass for these lug corners on fiberglass stocks. I prefer to round all the corners of the lug and that way never have to worry about a corner scraping glass and they always go in and out of the bedding nicely.


Thanks and small details that are incorrect IMHO, REALLY bug me. Fillets and radius are simple and standard machine practice ( I am a toolmaker by trade) and sending ANY receiver or machined part out like it is wrong.

I decided to retire my "donut" bedding fixture simply becasue the coat hanger method appeals to me on several levels. Simplicity and consistency come to mind and I do not have to disturb the factory set gas cylinder.

Fingers crossed for free time tomorrow......
 

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Thanks and small details that are incorrect IMHO, REALLY bug me. Fillets and radius are simple and standard machine practice ( I am a toolmaker by trade) and sending ANY receiver or machined part out like it is wrong.

I decided to retire my "donut" bedding fixture simply becasue the coat hanger method appeals to me on several levels. Simplicity and consistency come to mind and I do not have to disturb the factory set gas cylinder.

Fingers crossed for free time tomorrow......
I am not a toolmaker or machinist by trade, but I've learned things from some really good ones over the years and leaving a sharp edge where it should not be is just poor workmanship.

When I was taught to glass bed an M14 in 1973, we were still using the "barrel collar" or what we called "The Doughnut" up front instead of the gas cylinder. The problem was that too often when we fitted the unitized cylinder, either the barrel was not centered or the bottom lip of the front band dug into the stock ferrule or drug badly on it. That required a LOT of additional time sanding the lip of FB so it would slide freely.

I don't know if our Team Armorers came up with the coat hanger method or if they learned it from someone else. I do know that once we began using it, we had no where near the problems with barrel alignment or FB lips digging into or dragging on the stock ferrules. Personally, I was GLAD to stop using the "doughnuts" and never looked back.
 

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I was using a piece of PVC until Art Luppino explained to me the V coathanger wire. It's better because it lets the weight of the front end find its own perpendicular instead of forcing a fit.

OP, you're well on the way to a good result that'll hold up a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Unsupervised time today so down to the basement......

I added a little more plumbers putty to exposed areas of my receiver ( just in case). I smoothed out the putty and applied Kiwi clear shoe polish (release agent) to all exposed receiver metal inside and out. I rolled a Q-Tip in the clear Kiwi and hit all crevices, twice. Set action action aside and its ready to go in a few minutes.

Check the stock one more time.... Blew out the bedding area with air hose to remove any dust or loose junk.... laid out my coat hanger pieces with a few spares, never know.....


Devcon measured~



Mixed~




I spend about 5 minutes mixing the Devcon. I have about X2 the amount needed but too much epoxy is better than not enough. Once mixed I let it sit a few minutes then started putting it on / in the stock. I started with the rear pocket / horseshoe area followed by the top surfaces then the sides. You have generous working time so no need to panic. I mix it smoothly and try not to whip it up and get air trapped in the Devcon. You are mixing epoxy, not making butter.

Quantity wise I have around 3 shot glasses (volume) of Devcon mixed up and that was more than enough.
You can "paint" the inside fiberglass surfaces of the stock with the extra. I always set some aside and make sure it cures correctly.








Now that I have epoxy in hopefully all the right places its time to insert the action into the stock. I stand the stock up vertical and hook the gas cylinder metal onto the stock ferrule and let its weight pull down. I lower the action towards the stock and stop above it. Its at this point I insert a new piece of coat hanger on the mark I made on the stock. Now I gently guide the action into the stock and let is settle down. At this point I scrape the obvious excess Devcon away from the lug area and drop it in the trash.
Once I wipe any major Devcon away I squeeze by hand the heel of the action firmly to the stock. I now attach my clamping / holding fixture and tighten.

The bedding is now done for better or for worse! If you did your prep well you have nothing to worry about but I still do.









My front wire is in the same place as my test fit and looks good!





More to follow............
 

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Really interesting read. GREAT pictures and descriptions. Can we sticky this thread when its all done?
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Clean up time----

Once you place the action into the Devcon you should have a lot of squeeze out. You WANT squeeze out becasue that means you should have 100% contact.

I start the clean up by wiping away the excess Devcon with dry Q-Tips. I do this over a trash can to wipe and drop. I use a LOT of tips to my wife's dismay....

Try to NOT move or disturb the barrel or action from this point on.
I prefer not to move it around but you can if you are careful. If moved handle by the stock , NOT the barrel or action.




Start wiping with dry Q-Tips~









When you get most of the Devcon off use Q-Tips soaked in WD-40 to clean up the remainder of the Devcon. Rub a wet Q-tip on the action and along where the stock and receiver meet to smooth out the Devcon line. Wet tip followed by dry one until clean. When you think its clean take a 5 minute break then come back and look again. Seems there is always a little more you find with fresh eyes. I focus on the receiver metal #1 and the contact point between stock and receiver a lesser degree. Believe me it cleans up a lot easier and faster while the Devcon is not cured (wet) with WD-40 Vs. cleaning it off your action when the Devcon is dry. It can be done but is slower and SUCKS. Ask me how I know this.....













For inside the receiver I use a small scraper and scrape away any major excess Devcon squeeze out and ignore the rest. Once the stock and action are separated I can better clean up.
I will leave it set over night / 24 hours then remove the action (fingers crossed).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Really interesting read. GREAT pictures and descriptions. Can we sticky this thread when its all done?
Fine by me and I hope it stays accessible for people that hopefully learn something from the process.

USNA
 

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Good job! By the pics, I take it that you are not planning to bed the front of the receiver; correct? If you aren't you might want to consider it.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Tony.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good job! By the pics, I take it that you are not planning to bed the front of the receiver; correct? If you aren't you might want to consider it.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

Tony.

Bed the front~

I did on my last non-rear lug rifle and for this one I want to try something different. I may leave it as-is or revisit bedding the front section as well.
With the rear lug and pillar I will add I do not see the front making a major difference. I could be totally wrong but I can still "do it".
 

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You can go back in and build up a front pillar after you shoot it in. My guess is you'll want it, but that's only a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I removed the action from the stock today. It came out without issue. I use a wood dowel and a dead blow hammer and gave it a couple firm taps and the action came out slowly. My main concern area was getting the rear lug area filled solid without voids. This area was fine. I had good coverage and a couple minor air bubbles / voids that I will l address. I cleaned up the excess bedding using a rat tail file and a regular hand file. I mixed up a small amount of Devcon to fill some minor voids and will toss some under my front receiver that I omitted and was going to leave alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Happy New Year to everyone!
I had a tame night so I feel like gun plumbing today......


Here is the action removed from the last Devcon bedding from my above post. I did some minor clean up but am NOT finished. I am not satisfied with the area above the left action lug and I have a small void to fill near the front / top surface.

I will likely skim bed the "legs" of the receiver. I did mill clearance for the mags catch and clearance for the roll pin retainer.

I have more hand work to blend and make pretty.





Can you tell its a Springfield??

















I can skim bed the receiver "legs" and that will give me something to keep busy on. Right now I need some 1/4-28 Stainless steel socket head cap screws X 1 1/2" long (Ordered). This will be the screw I use for the rear lug. Right now my rear lug is NOT tapped. I will wait until I have the screw in my hand to measure and machine a pillar.

Since I can position it (pillar) where I want I will center the hole near the back side of the trigger groups slot. I will set the stock up in the mill and indicate it in then drill a 1/4" hole through. Once through I will insert the action into the stock and use a 1/4" transfer punch to transfer a mark on the rear lug where to drill and tap my 1/4-28 hole. Once this is done I can machine a pillar and put the stock back in the mill and counter-bore a pocket to accept my pillar. I will make the pillar from stainless steel and Devcon it in place flush with the surface the trigger group rests on.


This is how much space you have for a pillar~




Adding the thickness of the lug means I want a fastener 1 1/2" which I can shorten for clearance. I will drill the hole through the lug.




More to follow.....screws on order.
 

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Thanks alot for posting this process.
 
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