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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any way to achieve the proper barrel tension between the ferrule and front band other than glass bedding the action? I have an SA Scout in a walnut stock.
 

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You can try shims cut from aluminum beverage can - about 1 inch long placed between the stock and 'rails' on both sides of the breech end of the receiver.
The idea is to tilt the chamber end of the receiver slightly upwards, so that as the trigger guard is closed it pulls the heel of the receiver into hard contact with the stock.

That might to helpful to show if it gives better accuracy.
Doing epoxy bedding is the 'real answer'.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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79 IHC Scout II, 74 VW Bug class 11 look a like
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I had a old timer tell me about gluing strips of paper to the stock under the front rails to add tension to M1 Garand's, I am trying it with playing cards under the receiver rails but I don't get out shooting very often.

Casey
 

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You can try shims cut from aluminum beverage can - about 1 inch long placed between the stock and 'rails' on both sides of the breech end of the receiver.
The idea is to tilt the chamber end of the receiver slightly upwards, so that as the trigger guard is closed it pulls the heel of the receiver into hard contact with the stock.

That might to helpful to show if it gives better accuracy.
Doing epoxy bedding is the 'real answer'.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
I did this using a magnetic business card stock.
My Loaded went from approximately 2.5" to consistent 1" groups.
I put a lot of rds through it before I broke it down for cleaning.
 

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You can try shims cut from aluminum beverage can - about 1 inch long placed between the stock and 'rails' on both sides of the breech end of the receiver.
The idea is to tilt the chamber end of the receiver slightly upwards, so that as the trigger guard is closed it pulls the heel of the receiver into hard contact with the stock.

That might to helpful to show if it gives better accuracy.
Doing epoxy bedding is the 'real answer'.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
Jay, this would be if you had a loose ( too easy ) of a lockup correct?
What it I have a very tight lockup as I do on my FG usgi?
 

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Jay, this would be if you had a loose ( too easy ) of a lockup correct?
What it I have a very tight lockup as I do on my FG usgi?
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Yes it will increase the lockup somewhat, but your lockup pressure is probably due to the amount of wood stock between the base of the trigger group and the bottom of the receiver than due to draw tension at the stock ferrule.

If the receiver heel and rails set snugly against the top of the stock with the trigger guard open then there probably isn't much draw tension. In that case getting draw tension likely involves doing some surgery to the stock, and that would to part of a 'real' bedding job. I'm not confident about giving good DIY info about that ... Doing it on MY rifle is one thing, but telling someone else what to do on THEIR rifle is something else.

quoting 'Dirty Harry' - "a man's got to know his limitations"

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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I did this using a magnetic business card stock.
My Loaded went from approximately 2.5" to consistent 1" groups.
I put a lot of rds through it before I broke it down for cleaning.
Well then that was the performance tweak of the year to get that type of improvement . I'll have to look at my wood stocks and see if it works.
 

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Is there any way to achieve the proper barrel tension between the ferrule and front band other than glass bedding the action? I have an SA Scout in a walnut stock.
I have used the aluminum tape and it holds up well for the rounds I put through mine. I don't have a test of hundreds of rounds though. I've also used the tape on the trigger housing to tighten lockup.
 

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Jay, this would be if you had a loose ( too easy ) of a lockup correct?
What it I have a very tight lockup as I do on my FG usgi?
I'm not Jay, but I've take some material off the stock where the heal of the receiver sits. This will lessen the trigger lockup and improve the barrel tension at the same time. I usually trace around the receiver, then remove a little material at a time until the lockup is good. If you still need more tension, then you can shim.
 

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I'm not Jay, but I've take some material off the stock where the heal of the receiver sits. This will lessen the trigger lockup and improve the barrel tension at the same time. I usually trace around the receiver, then remove a little material at a time until the lockup is good. If you still need more tension, then you can shim.
I thought a tight lockup is good. Why would I want to loosen it up? It seems proper. I have draw at the barrel ferul. The reciever heel sits up about 3/32 inch before the trigger guard is locked in pulling it flush. I think that's a good set but correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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I have draw at the barrel ferul. The reciever heel sits up about 3/32 inch before the trigger guard is locked in pulling it flush. I think that's a good set but correct me if I'm wrong.
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That sounds fine on YOUR rifle, the earlier comments were for the OP about his rifle has has very tight lockup and little/no draw.
Starting with an extemely tight lockup, just adding shims might not work because then the trigger guard perhaps couldn't be fully closed. In that situation, the stock needs to be altered so that both good lockup and draw are achieved.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
 

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That sounds fine on YOUR rifle, the earlier comments were for the OP about his rifle has has very tight lockup and little/no draw.
Starting with an extemely tight lockup, just adding shims might not work because then the trigger guard perhaps couldn't be fully closed. In that situation, the stock needs to be altered so that both good lockup and draw are achieved.

Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA
Got it, thanks Jay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I tried using shims made of HVAC aluminum tape and it worked, sort of. Not sure that I got enough barrel tension, but it was improved. It took several rounds for things to settle in with shifting POI during the shooting session. I may redo with aluminum shims from a can and see if it is any more stable. Of course I'll bed it properly some where down the line. There are a lot of other things to do to the gun, such as shim the gas cylinder first.
 
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