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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All!

My M1a Appears to be shot out, sorta.

20 year old Armscorp that I installed a kit on back in the 80s.

I bought some head-space gauges GO/NO-GO and my stripped HRT bolt will close easily on them both.

I just bought a new 762mm bolt and lightly lapped it into the receiver. The new bolt will close on the no-go gauge. Seems loose to me though.

Time for a barrel I guess?

My current setup is a non chrome custom cut and threaded 16" GI barrel, in a bedded Beretta alpine folding stock.

This has always been a great shooter with 0 malfunctions since built, and I have always been able to knock around bowling pins at the 100 meter mark with irons.

I just bought a socom black plastic stock to put this setup in so I wont beat up my folder any more. I will reduce it's LOP to 12", install a p-pad and lighten it up a bit.

My question to the group is what barrels are available currently, that will allow the rifle to perform as well as it has the last 20 years? I plan to shoot alot in the near future and make this my handy short carbine at 16" or so. I think I might like a chrome bore and chamber this time around.

Any recommendations?
 

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All of the site sponsors are great.
LRB Arms is a great start.
SEI is a great one as well.



Do you want a heavy barrel, light?

I do believe that the Chrome will wear slower, but the non is more accurate.
 

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I plan to shoot alot in the near future and make this my handy short carbine at 16" or so. I think I might like a chrome bore and chamber this time around.

Any recommendations?
16" and Chrome are a No-Go, but SEI has a chrome-moly CQB-16 M80HT barrel that can be as durable and easy to clean as chrome lined especially if you have it cryo'd.
 

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The main reason non chrome is more accurate is that your stuck with any chatter marks, tight spots, ect. If it's a good barrel before chroming it'll shoot good. A non chrome barrel can be shot in and lapped.

From a practical standpoint with modern barrels, unless you strap it down in a vise shooting match ammo with a scope your not going to notice any difference. I like the chrome for ease of cleaning and barrel longevity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't know about 16" and chrome being bad. Can someone splain please.

I would like to keep it as light as possible. So a heavy or med heavy is out, unless it is highly fluted.

I read that the top 3 M1A accuracy items were shoot in and lapping bore, bedding and trigger.

I already have a very nice trigger and may do the other two, depending on which stock I settle on.

I am not looking for a tack driver though, I have other rifles with appropriate optics for that.

What about poly barrels? Anyone do them?
 

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Are you using .308 headspace gages? What are the dimensions of the gages you are using? For 7.62 chambers, the .308 nogo is frequently used as a go gage. I'd go back to using your HRT bolt and check headspace with a 7.62 field gage before buying a new barrel.
 

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I think AndyB is giving you good info.
Your HRT bolt will last a lifetime.
I use CMP Nato guages. Have had good luck for many years.

Semper Fi
Art
 

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Your H&R bolt will last longer than you will, unless it's damaged i wouldn't think of replacing it with a commerical part - IMHO 1.632 or 33 is the ideal HS for any M14 short of a real NM rifle
 

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Same question, why would you change the HR bolt? As far as barrels go, something to consider. If you do use a chrome lined barrel your limited to whatever the headspace winds up being after the barrel is installed. It would be nice to have a handful of bolts to achieve the desired HS. Some people actually do and can cut and chamber a chrome lined barrel but I am at a loss as to weather its a good idea or not. I have read both sides of the story. It never really concerned me because I don't use chrome lined barrels. Something to consider, I know everyone must be sick of hearing me say it but WTF. I spoke to krieger and they said that buy the end of the summer they would have there 18.5 medium weight barrels in stock. I have know idea if they are there now or if they will be there in the next two months. They are not 16 inches and not chrome lined but you would be very happy with the accuracy.
 

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Greetings,

Just a few thoughts. First would be to check HS with a fractional gauge set (best) or at least a field rather than a no go. If it closes on the field gauge that would more likely indicate a shot out barrel, while the fractional set will tell you exactly what the HS dimension is. I concur that the USGI bolt should not be a problem unless it is actually broke or defective in some manner. If not, a rebuild with new ejector, extractor, springs and firing pin should make it good as new. Regarding the 16" barrel, doesn't that short of a length start to make the gas system more tricky to set up? An 18" may give you more options on configurations, etc.. Best of luck with your project.

Regards, Jim
 

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82nd keeps up better with what Krieger's doing than I do. You won't get them to do anything while the National Matches are on, but I'd check with them in a couple weeks about availability of the barrel length and contour you want. You could send them your barreled action and both of your bolts and they'll do the rest in a first-class way, and they'll return your old barrel and whichever bolt becomes the spare. It's up to you and there are others who would probably rebarrel your rifle to your satisfaction. My thinking is simply that, if you don't know whether your receiver has ever been lapped and you don't have the armorer tools the pros have, it's worth it to spend the $$$ when you rebarrel to get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally got it sorted.

Got a set of 7.62 nato gauges and it will close on the min and won't close on the max.


Much happier now.

Now that I know it is good to go, I will put it back in the Beretta folder. I am headed to Charleston tomorrow and will pick up a new socom, II or Bush. Haven't decided yet.

I am not sure what to look for on the springer, so now I need to study that.

My quest for a robust, short 7.62 carbine is unending.

Fixed stock, about 9lbs bare, piston operated, 16-18" bbl..........blablabla


Thanks all for the help and intel!
 
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