M14 Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
does anyone have any experience in spraying vehicles? im looking into paint sprayers right now for a jeep project but unsure of which gun to get or really what to look for. ive had some experience using them but I didn't set it up. I basically was handed the gun and told spray this hood which was from a 67 camaro. I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on one since its only going to be for an off road jeep and if it sprays decently I might do my willys as well. I really don't want to spend over $150.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Get a HVLP gun and look up youtube videos. I have found that after painting everything from trailers to excavators that the biggest issue is making sure the air pressure is set low enough to keep the overspray down and putting the paint on the project. Make darn sure you buy a throw away coveralls and a good dust mask. Believe it or not the N95 is my mask of choice and I buy cheap goggles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
Buy a good quality gravity feed HVLP GUN. NOT HARBOR FREIGHT- AND I'd said this COVID-19 or not. Prepare for pucker factor, apply a little preperation H before you sit down to look at models.

Get a 5 gallon bucket of laquer thinner from the cheapest supplier. You want to clean your gun thoroughly before going onto the next step and make sure it is dry before approaching that.

Next, call your paint store and tell them you want to try a entry-jobber paint system(I still have stuff from PPG Omni days, I get Dupont-Nason from a local autoparts store).
Explain you're wanting to try it out.

Get epoxy primer, primer surfacer, and your base and clear. Keep in mind depending on climate and humidity each system will have activators and other reagents you will need to add to the paint depending on your region. This is also going to factor into you buying your filters from 3M. You will need a Tyvek suit and I use a fresh air supply hooked into a full face respirator. I also have a positive ventilation system where air inside is sucked out and a supply of fresh air comes in. Didn't find out until I was near 40 but I have auto-immune disorder and have to see a rheumatologist- any solvents or reagents mess me up bad.


Read all the MS/DS and the info on mixing. Get plenty of stirrers and plenty of filters.

Get a piece of sheet metal- a fender preferably- something with lines so you have to get a feel of applying all your materials, and then you'll shoot epoxy, allow it to fully flash per the MS/DS. Once flashed it needs scuffed. Then it needs your primer-surfacer- consult your flash time, there will be recommendations on coats and what grain sand paper to use with the primer surfacer- remember this is where a good paint job comes from.

When the primer-surfacer is done, flashed, and sanded ? Check it again. Twice. Did I mention this determines the quality of a paint job ?

Now, you'll spray your base, know the flash time before clear has to be applied. Make absolutely sure and if activator was recommended- USE IT. DO WHATEVER THE PAINT SYSTEM DOCUMENTS RECOMMEND.

General rule of thumb- 24 hours must pass.
Wet sand. Wet sand some more. Apply more coats. Repeat. This may go on a few days.

Wash vehicle(or the body part) with soap and water after each wet sanding before you apply more base coat or go to clear.

When you're satisfied with your base coat, apply clear.


DO NOT MIX BRANDS OR SYSTEMS.

Don't mix PPG Global with PPG OMNI(or whatever jobber low grade stuff is). Don't mix PPG products with Dupont with...

The better quality paint system you buy the longer the finish will last even if garaged. If it isn't going to be garaged, low grade paint systems will last a year to two years depending on climate and sun exposure.

If you aren't sure what the MSDS is telling you, you need to call your paint rep.

I can't tell you how much easier your life will be if you take one part and find out if this is for you before you jump in whole hog.

A good paint system with materials for one car, in a color that does not require expensive pigments(flake, or say RED) will be $1k-2k in materials if you're buying for the first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I'm not looking to be a pro at it and the jeep doesn't need to look like it came out of a car show. It's going to be a rock crawler. If I mess the paint up while doing it I'll just camo it using the old military camo pattern like this. Now the Willy's, if it turns out that I'm decent at it, without drips or orange peel I'll paint the Willy's back to Luzon red...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Hard to beat a Binks Model 7 - it's the 1911 of spray guns.

I have a HVLP gun as well, and it does produce less overspray, but doesn't spray as nicely as a Model 7.

I'm pretty sure gravity-feed is the state of the art as of now (I've not worked in the industry professionally for years and years). I have one, but haven't spent much time with it.

If overspray is an issue, or you want to spray heavy material, gravity-feed would probably be the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
Can't comment on lo buck sprayguns, the last one was over 40 yrs ago & came with the sears air compressor. POS by the way, not even good for primer.

JKV brought up a Binks 7, great spray gun and not used much anymore due to VOC compliance, meaning less volatile fumes in the air. The problem with an old school spraygun is that you will use 2 to 3x the materials as most of it went airborn and out the exhaust fan. HVLP puts more material on the vehicle.

Because of the effeciency of HVLP the cost of paint and associated products has gone up a lot, like 5X as before. Example, the Diamont basecoat we use costs between $150 and $300 a quart, that doesn't include the reducer ($90 per Gal.), clear ($300 gal) and catalyst for the clear ($200 Qt).

Paint companies have a value oriented line so you can afford to give the rock crawler a facelift without breaking the bank. Acrylic or regular enamel in general. They do a decent job and should do ok for your purposes. Get the catalyst for the lo buck option, paint will dry quicker and harder. They have offered this kind of package, paint, catalyst and reducer, for around $150, but it may be more now. Should be enough for an average sedan, wagon or mid sized pickup.

If using a high $$$ paint product go for a decent HVLP, you will pay for the difference in the amount of product not used. If going with a low dollar enamel or acrylic enamel then try the siphon gun. Binks & DeVilbiss are the ones to find, shouldn't be too much $$.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
549 Posts
Get a HVLP gun and look up youtube videos. I have found that after painting everything from trailers to excavators that the biggest issue is making sure the air pressure is set low enough to keep the overspray down and putting the paint on the project. Make darn sure you buy a throw away coveralls and a good dust mask. Believe it or not the N95 is my mask of choice and I buy cheap goggles.
I wouldn't recommend a dust or particle mask with today's paint chemistry.

In general, with any catalyzed paint you want a full respirator with charcoal filters at minimum.

Pretty sure today OSHA requires a fresh air system in any commercial/industrial refinishing operation.

I worked with Painters in the late 80s that liked to paint (in a booth, or not) with just a dust or particle mask. At least 2 of them are dead, and they weren't that old by today's standards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If it’s a rock crawler spray it with bed liner. You get a tough as nails finish, cool looking texture and easy to repair spray spots. You can now even get it color tinted if matte black isn’t your style.
I've thought about that but I don't know. I kinda want to do this paint scheme. However, I would like to practice on it so when the day comes I can paint my Willy's cj2a.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Do Not buy an HVLP gun unless you have a big compressor.

HVLP refers to how much air is being used by the system. The AirCaps allow large volumes of air to Carry the paint to the surface, but most home size compressors cant keep up with them...

Plus, Since the paint is being transferred in higher volumes through the air, its easier to get runs and sags if you aren’t experienced.

If you get a spray gun with a “High Efficiency” cap, you will not only have an easier time spraying, you can get away with a smaller compressor, and probably save some paint in the the process.

For example...

If my Tekna Prolite. Spray gun has a HVLP cap on, it uses 16cfm of air to operate...
(Which needs a pretty big compressor)

But if I put the TE10, high efficiency cap on, then it only needs 9cfm to operate.,
 

·
Registered
79 IHC Scout II, 74 VW Bug class 11 look a like
Joined
·
6,657 Posts
I've thought about that but I don't know. I kinda want to do this paint scheme. However, I would like to practice on it so when the day comes I can paint my Willy's cj2a.
Nice MUT, is it a welded body? I looked at one a guy had for sale, it had a title for a CJ5 and it looked like he used a stick welder to weld the two halves back together. I would like to have one, I have a real unstamped data plate my brother found on Fort Lewis AB while he was in the Army. Can someone 6'5" drive one?

Casey
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,667 Posts
If you're gonna paint GI OD style of paint an inexpensive HVLP will do fine & use the primer nozzle.
I do Rustoleum Red Primer, then a red primer-surfacer & then topcoat. This is for GI type vehicles, not showy stuff.
Buy your paint at Rapco. It will be Devoe brand If I remember right & they sell enough that they will have the freshest paint on the shelf.
DO NOT try to have GI OD paint mixed locally!!!
Use Xylene to reduce with, it works best with straight flat enamels.
If your Jeep is gonna live outside be aware that a Semi Gloss OD will weather much better than Flat.
I spray with a Sharp Cobalt but I painted this Jeep with a gun from a kit of three guns that I bought at NAPA for $100.
I painted this Jeep 17 yrs ago & except for where tools & such have rode & the scrape where my grand daughter bonked the Pear Tree it looks as good as the day after I painted it!USNA
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,314 Posts
I painted this Jeep 17 yrs ago & except for where tools & such have rode & the scrape where my grand daughter bonked the Pear Tree it looks as good as the day after I painted it!USNA
Whatever works for you. It looks very nice.

I'll still be safety NAZI. The stuff I used to paint an Ant-eater 3388, came from TSC. It is excellent, excellent paint. The only chemical required was the reducer for the paint- "marked" reducer and the "catalyst" for the primer- marked "primer catalyst.

Both have a fairly high VOC content. Both have isocyanates.

Don't mess with isocyanates. Once in your body some trace of it remains, and it never ceases being toxic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,418 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Nice MUT, is it a welded body? I looked at one a guy had for sale, it had a title for a CJ5 and it looked like he used a stick welder to weld the two halves back together. I would like to have one, I have a real unstamped data plate my brother found on Fort Lewis AB while he was in the Army. Can someone 6'5" drive one?

Casey
Oh that's not mine. I wish. I was showing what I wanted to paint my yj when the time comes and only after I mess up the factory brown that it came it. Lol. So there's the possibility that I may be painting it twice...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,406 Posts
Also interested, going to paint loudspeaker enclosures. Rifle stock application wouldn't be bad either. Have used spray paint for both, and can work, but that is tedious and slow to do well, and with enough volume gets expensive. I used about $150 of spray paint on my last loudspeaker project for a client. Between that and the labor, if I was going to do it in volume, I would have simply hired an auto body painter.

But...

While I appreciate expertise on how to do a fantastic job, I'm not that critical. If it is even and I can avoid runs without doing umpteen coats, it is relatively inexpensive (few hundred for a setup), and wearing a respirator keeps me from health issues, those are my priorities. Slightly better finish versus not, I can let it go. Any suggestions on that route?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top