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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I am going rabbit hunting in the morning & have decided to take my old Model 11 riot gun. I dug it out & when I cleaned it up I noticed the barrel rubs the forearm in the barrel channel. I sanded a little out enough to clean & straighten it up but it still rubs just a little when the barrel is all the way forward. When the barrel travels to the rear about 5/8" or so I can slide a check around the barrel down into the forearm. I hate to sand any more on it as the bottom of the channel has a fore & aft crack in it. Any cause for alarm here? Thanks!
 

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Sorry I'm not an expert on the M11, but on the M11-48 (modified M11) I saw a similar issue. On the 11-48 there is a nut that secures the wood forearm in place. If you loosen that nut, you can rotate the forearm to get it centered with the barrel, then hold it there while tightening the nut. Relieves the rub.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. But on the 11, a bolt holds the barrel & forearm in place, and it pretty much lives where it pushes on. The forearm has two rearward facing pins at the rear of it that stick into a pair of holes on both sides of the receiver front. I only shot this gun once, & it was brutal. But when I disassembled it, it was bone dry. After lubing it well the barrel slides easy. I think it will be ok, aint like I'm gonna shoot two boxes of shells tomorrow! USN2
 

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OK roger that. Makes sense, usually when a company like Remington makes changes to an older design, it's usually to eliminate parts and make it cheaper to manufacture, hence the 11-48 design. (then the 1100, then the 11-87...)

There was another thread less than a week ago about the Browning Auto 5, same gun as the Rem 11, and the subject of getting the friction rings and lubrication right came up. Might want to read that one. recoil has a lot to do with getting the friction rings and lube correct.

Good hunting! ( and post pics.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK roger that. Makes sense, usually when a company like Remington makes changes to an older design, it's usually to eliminate parts and make it cheaper to manufacture, hence the 11-48 design. (then the 1100, then the 11-87...)

There was another thread less than a week ago about the Browning Auto 5, same gun as the Rem 11, and the subject of getting the friction rings and lubrication right came up. Might want to read that one. recoil has a lot to do with getting the friction rings and lube correct.

Good hunting! ( and post pics.)
Thanks! And there is another Remington Auto in between the 11-48 & 1100, the 58 Sportsman. It's a three shot gas gun, a smoooooth shooter!
 

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I wasn't aware of a Model 58... Maybe a typo? There was a Model 48 Sportsman, it was the 11-48 with the magazine tube dimpled to restrict it to 2 in the mag for waterfowl hunting. It's shown in the owner's manuals and parts lists I have for my 11-48.

But, sorry for muddying up your Model 11 thread. GI1
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well actually it's Sportsman 58 instead. Got hunting dog & qual on left side & ducks on the right. Real light after toting that heavy 11 half the day- & all I saw was an owl! No rabbits today!USN4
 

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I have a military Model 11 stamped military finish, with an ordnance bomb in excellent condition with the military markings on the stock.

I just checked my fore end and while it rocks side to side very slightly but other than that its rock solid and doesn't drag on the barrel on either side. I have never fired it and I've owned it since 1988 when I inherited it from my father's military gun collection. It is just too pretty to shoot.

7th
 

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Getting back to your question then, is the barrel rubbing at the bottom? It's possible that is what caused the crack in the first place.

You could try working a good epoxy into the crack to repair and reinforce it, then sand as needed for clearance. Or search for another M11 forearm...

But, it's not a target rifle, if it were I'd definitely want to fix the rub. If the gun cycles reliably and the crack isn't getting worse, you might just let sleeping dogs lie...
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah it's rubbing the bottom of the barrel. I'm confident that I can sand the interference out right at the front.
My research indicates that the crack in the forearm is common to all brands of manufacture of this design shotgun. Read it comes from shooting it with the retaining bolt loose.
I know one thing, that sucker gets heavy holding it up waiting for mr bunny ears to pop outta the brush!USN2
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Most older guns patterned on the auto 5 will have a bare spot on the barrel if it has been shot a lot. From the barrel rubbing the forearm. Keep the mag tube cap tight and shoot it
10-4! By the way this gun has a proof mark that looks like an anchor on it, I think the trigger guard. I read that a few of these guns were used by the Navy. Think mine may be a Navy gun?
 

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Could you send some pics of it? Could be these shotguns were used by a few branches of the military from what I have read. I would like to see it I'm intrigued with this design.


I tried to show in the pic wear the bluing wears on these guns hard to see but I tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK I'll take some photos when I can.
Check this out- how does he get SIX shots outta that gun???
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QodSZOt_5gw[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
My mom was sold a 20g 11-48 back in the '70s to dove hunt with by a neighbor. One shot was all it took & she was on that guys front porch. She might have shot him with it but she already knew how hard it kicked!USN3
She returned with her money back!USN2
 
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