[ClassyBoxer]

It seems I have a pretty common problem with the front screw not allowing the mount to sit properly for installation. Should I file off some of the hand guard to allow room for the screw to fit? I've heard of some people purchasing a different type of allen screw but even when the mount is sitting properly with the screw out the hole is still partially blocked by the hand guard.
Thoughts?

 

[Snowlion]

It seems I have a pretty common problem with the front screw not allowing the mount to sit properly for installation. Should I file off some of the hand guard to allow room for the screw to fit? I've heard of some people purchasing a different type of allen screw but even when the mount is sitting properly with the screw out the hole is still partially blocked by the hand guard.
Thoughts?

If you're talking about the front set screw that locks the receiver ring elevation pad, you can just replace that screw with a regular allen set screw that will screw in tight flush with the face of the mount. No overhang on the hand guard. The same type of allen screw that locks the castle nut, with or without the dog.

That's what I did.

 

[KurtC]

I have the flush screws that go up front on the ARMS 18. PM me your address.

 

[Ted Brown]

That's why they invented the Dremel tool.

 

[ClassyBoxer]

I have the flush screws that go up front on the ARMS 18. PM me your address.

Thank you! My brother ended up taking care of everything. Appreciate the replies everyone!

 

[tnw50cal]

I'm pretty sure if memory doesn't fail me the flash suppressor set screw works , the one that holds the castle nut.

 

[KurtC]

I'm pretty sure if memory doesn't fail me the flash suppressor set screw works , the one that holds the castle nut.

It is the same thread. The one for the flash suppressor is a "dog" point, to fit the recesses of the castle nut. A cup point is better for the ARMS 18 application, but either will work if tightened properly.