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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
where do i get an arms 18 mount? do i get the split mount? what rings? quick release arms rings?

any advise on mounting the arms 18 mount?

im a noob at mounts so any advise would be great.

im planning on putting a leatherwood cmr hi lux scope on my scout.
 

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Arms 18

I bought mine From Fulton armory.. happy with the mount.

I don't believe the "split" mount is made any more.

The also have rings etc. The also have a ring height guide on their website too.
 

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you might want to try brownells, thats where I got mine from there a little pricy but there orders usually ship next day and if you choose usps in there shipping options you should have it 3 days after it ships. In my exprience Fulton can take around 2 weeks to process orders
 

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Arms 18

I bought my ARMS 18 new style mount for around $140.00 from www.getgear.us. They are selling them for $150.00 now but that is still a good price.
 

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Quick question regarding the ARMS 18...will a Weaver style scope ring fit this base? I understand that there are subtle differences between Weaver and 1913 rail.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
why dont they make the split mount anymore? i thought it might be better. does the "full" mount have problems with empty casings getting stuck in it? it just seems so low. what are yalls experiences?
 

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Had one or two shells jam between the receiver and op rod, while testing a promag copy(to see if I wanted to lay out for the ARMS).
Using a file on the tail of the piston, and consequentially changing the dwell(by measuring when the gas plug begins to make contact with the op rod...and filing until it only pushes about 1 turn before bottoming out) according to those in the know around here, immediately resolved the problem. I didn;t do it because of the jam per se....but that is the effect it had.
Now I have two ARMS mounts, and neither has ever had the jam.
 

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why dont they make the split mount anymore? i thought it might be better. does the "full" mount have problems with empty casings getting stuck in it? it just seems so low. what are yalls experiences?
Torsional effects from the forward pad contacting the receiver is why they switched to a full rail is what I've heard. Not sure that's right so take it at face value.

Of course you could always have a machinist mill out the center of the rail so it's like the old style. I've seen a few people do this.

My LRB M25 rail sits pretty close to the chamber and gets marks from brass hitting it. Personally I'd rather have the brass hit the rail than my scope.

You can also tune the ejection spring to get it to spit shells out to the side if needed. You just trim a coil at a time and test till it ejects just right.

Hopefully the ARMS goes on with no trouble for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks for the info yall. what about rings? what are the best rings for it. quick release rings would be ideal. and i heard that i might want to replace the front set screw because it hits the handguard......is this true?
 

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Front set screw

Mine clears by oh maybe a 1/32 inch, but does clear. Yours may vary...

If it would "rub" it surely wouldn't be much..
 

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When I did try an ARMS mount the forward screw hit the hand guard. Options are notching the hand guard or using a set screw (castle nut set screws will work). Of course this is if you find it contacts after installation.

Your rings will be determined by your scope and your intended use. Personally I've tried QR rings and haven't liked them so now I stick with bolt on style and keep a wrench in my gear and witness mark the nuts.

If you REALLY think you'll be switching from irons to scope A LOT then I'd say ditch the ARMS idea and get a Bassett mount.
 
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