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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to put a Midwest Industries free float rail and an adjustable gas block on my AR10 (S&W MP10 Sport with the 16" barrel). I know which parts I wish to use as I have the specs all worked out.

1. Do any of you recommend an AR smith that could do the swap? I don't have the tools, time, or the general know how to float the barrel. I suppose I could do the work myself if it isn't too hard, and doesn't require too much tooling. But I also want it done right.

2. Since I am going to send the upper in for some work, should I consider doing a barrel swap as well? It would add cost to the gun, but maybe a nice match barrel would be worth it.
 

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You got to have a friend or two that with a bribe of 12 pack and a large pie would help you out with the easy swap. If not any local could do the job. Figure the shop rate is what $100? You'll be better off buying the tools through Brownells.
 

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Minimum tools. A torque wrench, crescent wrench, allen wrenches, barrel extension torque tool and a bench vice. I suppose a few C clamps and a sturdy table will work as a bench vice. Also a $1.50 packet of anti-seize from O'reily's or AutoZone. I got the copper stuff last week to do my MATEN upper build. I reckon that packet will last me a lifetime. That stuff goes a long way.

If you can bum the tools and a pair of hands even better. Now I wonder if AutoZone will loan you the tools? You may have to then only buy the barrel extension torque tool. That tool will run about $60 from Brownells and that's kind a half way to shop price to have your local do the work.
 

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Just make sure you get the right MI handguard too. Apologies if you already know this but the DPMS uppers have two distinct profiles. Can't remember the measurements but they are on the MI website and are referred to generally as High and Low Profile. They are not interchangeable. Afaik.

Edit: just did some googling. Looks like the MP10 is DPMS Low Profile.
Also you may notice that I am selling an Ergo Lo-Pro adjustable gas block on the BX. It doesn not fit under the MI DPMS Low Profile Pattern handguards. So don't buy it. Haha. Fyi.
 
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When i did my AR10 build, i used an MI hand guard, i love the han duard, however the barrel nut is a little farther away than a standard nut so you may need a longer hinge pin in your ejection port cover.
 

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dogear - Ah the DPMS High Low, Armalite A or B and "X" company secret sauce. Yeah that was fun. AR10/.308 being non standardized and being maybe ball park made the Frankenstein-ing into more internet researching event than anything. I now know how old people feel. Does that make me old?

That reminds me I waited until I had the gas block in my hand before I bought the hand guard. Needed an accurate measurement so I knew much would slip over the adjustable gas block. But even then I still needed to mill off 5mm in the M-Lok slot to get to it. That and I thought the gas block adjusted from the muzzle end and not from the side. At least the silly thing slipped over the whole thing. Victory.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I am aware of the high/low DPMS profiles. I too have thought about checking the gas block clearance before getting the handguard.

But should I do a barrel swap? Faxon makes a nice 16" medium weight DPMS 308 barrel.
 

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Yes, the dust cover hinge issue is real. You have to get a longer pin I believe.

Regarding the barrel, I have heard nothing but good things about the MP10 accuracy. The OG youtuber Nutnfancy absolutely raves about his.

I am interested to hear what other people say as well but more for general compatibility. I am looking at the MP15 lately and have heard varying reports on how much proprietary design/parts the rifles employ. Or just how compatible they are with the greater supply chain of AR's in general. I know that the handguards are readily swappable barring the whole Hi-Lo DPMS issue and I believe they just use regular ol mil-spec dimensioned barrels.

If I was pressed to opine I'd say keep the SW barrel and shoot it out. Especially since you're switching to the more easily configurable free-float platform for the front end.

Messing with the 308s has shattered my confidence in the supposed whiz-bang modularity of ARs. Now I agonize over parts much more... agonizingly.


Edit: actually it's occurs to me to suggest thinking about going with a mid or rifle length gas system. Which I was agonizingly collecting parts for until I gave up and decided to go with an M1A until 308 ARs get themselves squared away.
Now I'm saving pennies for a POF DI
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah, the accuracy isn't bad. It flirts with MOA using match ammo. I had no issue using it for whitetail in WI this past fall. Shot my 10 point buck at 150 yards -no problem.

I just brought up the barrel swap idea because I could get a Faxon match barrel for less than $300. Given I only spend $800 on the stock rifle, that wouldn't be a massive cost increase to the set up.
 

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M11293 - Do the barrel swap if you want to. Now me I'd shoot the barrel that came with. i got a friend who's yapping about a LS swap on his new to him C10 that's been in the shop for two years. Dude went nuts-o with slap on mods that he hadn't driven a drivable truck. Also there is a kicker he could've drove the truck when his Metro crapped out but he had to rent a ride since the truck was in bits. the good thing 9to me) when he kicks I'll get the truck so it'll be built and no extra miles added while in his hands. Don't get me wrong I don't want dude to kick the bucket but...

So shoot it and if it's crap after 200 rounds buy the barrel. But 16" damn... that's gonna be loud. M1A SOCOM territory. Shooters next to you are gonna hate you. Do see if the muzzle treatment you buy has or can install one of those Blast Shields that throw the noise forward.

dogear - Yeah I learned AR10/.308 share AR15 bits but AR10/.308 is not Mil-Spec. Might confounding project. It wasn't like AR15, get all the bits and it'll fit. I got to ponder and think a while since I was saving up the cash for the build. Then the COVID fund came and I was golden. That cash went quick. like i never had it in the first place.

I went with "rifle" length and an adjustable gas block to cover all my bases. If I went shorter I would have checked to see if they made a "Pig's Tail" gas tube. If i didn't get an adjustable gas block on my AR pistol I would've goten the silly expensive "Pig's Tail" (I still may).

M11293 - Maybe you wanna see if you can locate a "stripped" MP10 to build and leave that upper alone. I mean it's not like it's gonna be that much. And you'll have two working uppers to swap. I went with JP Enterprises 1-11 twist heavy (I ordered 1-11.25) worked out for me since I wanted the 1-11 twist. Anyways one of my concerns were head spacing. But since the JP came with a bolt I didn't have to worry about that. Does Faxon?

POLACK - You mean to say what I was trying to avoid may be promoted by my anti-seize choice? The grease ain't a barrier? I'll sort it after I throw some down range. What does Glock use? It's copper in color. Secret Sauce.
 

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dogear - Ah the DPMS High Low, Armalite A or B and "X" company secret sauce. Yeah that was fun. AR10/.308 being non standardized and being maybe ball park made the Frankenstein-ing into more internet researching event than anything.
As if it wasn't convoluted enough, it's also refereed to as Gen I or Gen II, the later (apparently) utilizing more AR-15 parts and facilitating a lighter end product. Then there's the DPMS Pattern, and (apparently) everything else.
Doe's anybody know if the 5D jig will work with the Thunderguns 80% lower?
 

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I made new pins for the port doors on the 2 builds I am currently working on, I used a piece of 1/8" piano wire I had on hand but it should not cost much to buy a piece at a local hobby shop.
One nice thing about the MI handguards is they come with a wrench, at least mine did. I also use the Brownell's torque rod [I have both] I don't like the vise blocks that wrap around the upper, if you have a billet upper they could crush the upper if the profile is not the same as a forged upper. The only problem with the Brownell's tool is it is shorter then the "Rection Rod" tool and they don't have flats to lock it in a vise, I made a tool to hold mine out of 2" x 1/4" wall square tube and a couple of cheap 1/2" drive extensions from Harbor Freight. I have also added a couple of set screws to hold the tool in place, some times when you would would pull the upper off it would pull the tool out to, very annoying.

eQ

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